the DR200 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by klxrdr, May 13, 2007.

  1. Outwardbound

    Outwardbound Been here awhile

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    New problem....

    My 96 electric start is dead. No cranky...
    Battery is good, the bike runs well after bump starting; just no crank.

    I've only had the bike 6 mos, is this a 'common' problem ?

    Do any of you bypass the clutch or sidestand interlocks? Is the starter relay a weak spot ?

    Anyone have this before ?

    Thanx
  2. Klay

    Klay dreaming adventurer

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    I've never had a problem like that. It does sound like a clutch or sidestand interlock problem. I've left mine stock. I had to bumpstart mine once when I left the ignition on and drained the battery by accident.
  3. Klay

    Klay dreaming adventurer

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    Great report! I didn't see it right away because I was on vacation.
  4. Klay

    Klay dreaming adventurer

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    The front brake on the DR200 is pretty weak, so I squeeze it pretty hard a lot. I'm on my third :eek1 front brake pad as a result. I have almost 11,000 miles on my DR200, so, at 5,000 miles, your bike may need the front pad replaced if it has been ridden hard on the street a lot. The rear liner still seems okay on mine.

    I replaced the front sprocket with the stock Suzuki sprocket. I can't remember where I got the new chain, but it used a clip-type master link.

    Now to the important part: You live in northwest Arkansas and you have a little dual-sport. You lucky guy. Have fun exploring in motorcycle paradise. :D
  5. johnnyandjebus

    johnnyandjebus Been here awhile

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    New problem....

    My 96 electric start is dead. No cranky...
    Battery is good, the bike runs well after bump starting; just no crank.

    I've only had the bike 6 mos, is this a 'common' problem ?

    Do any of you bypass the clutch or sidestand interlocks? Is the starter relay a weak spot ?

    Anyone have this before ?



    Hey
    I had the same problem with mine, a dr350, after I dropped the bike. The problem was

    the wiring at the clutch lever, the safety cut-off.
    To check this you can find your solenoid, behind the left side panel on my 350. The

    solenoid will have 4 wires coming into it. A big one from the battery, a big one
    going to the starter motor and 2 small ones. The solenoid is a switch that when
    activated makes a connection between the 2 large wires sending current to the
    starter motor
    Take a small wire, say from a voltmeter and connect the 2 small posts together (with

    the bike in neutral) this will bypass you starter button and all of the associated
    wiring and safety switches. If the starter turns over then you have a break
    somewhere in the wiring. Most likely at one of the safety switches i.e. at the clutch
    or sidestand. It is a good idea to bypass both of these as they can cause problems
    when you drop the bike away from home and damage the wiring.

    Basically the way it works is the wire coming in to the solenoid from the battery is
    hot. As is one of the smaller posts on the solenoid.
    The small hot post has a wire connected to it that goes up to your on/off switch
    from there the wire goes to your start button.
    from there to the instrument panel(to determine if the bike is in neutral)
    from there to the clutch lever
    from there to the side stand
    and from there back to the second small post on the solenoid
    When everything is working correctly the current passes along this circuit from
    the small hot post on the solenoid back to the second small post on the solenoid.
    This completes the circuit and allows the solenoid to switch on. Which in turn allows
    the current to run from the large hot wire from the battery thru the solenoid to the
    starter motor. If one of your safety switches is not working correctly you have a
    'break' in the circuit that will prevent the solenoid from kicking in.

    Keep in mind that this is how I diagnosed my problem on a slightly different bike so

    you may want to ask here for more detailed instructions from people who know
    the dr200, but in principle they are the same thing(the dr350 and dr200)
  6. Outwardbound

    Outwardbound Been here awhile

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    Johnny and Jebus: thanks for the in depth description. Working from the starter solenoid I arced the hot and cold terminals: starter turned; eg, starter good. Next I disconnected the clutch safety switch under the fairing. It came out in 10 seconds and hooked up directly without it; obviously meant to be bypassed like that. Still no cranky.... It came down to the starter switch on the handlebars. When I shorted that, it cranked normally. I tore the switch out and sprayed liberally w contact cleaner. Now it works intermittantly. The switch itself is bad. Nothing $68 from Ron Ayers won't fix............

    Thanx to all who helped. THIS is the value of this site.
  7. johnnyandjebus

    johnnyandjebus Been here awhile

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    outwardbound;

    Excellent!! wiring problems are always a pain to figure out. Let us know how you make out.

    You are correct in that this is an amazing site, I take from it a whole lot more than I give!!
  8. iWander

    iWander Adventure Geek

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  9. green hell

    green hell yawning or snarling

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    so, what's the valve clearance on these little devils?

    i'm feeling the need to check something.
  10. Klay

    Klay dreaming adventurer

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    It's a wide tolerance: Both intake and exhaust .08-.13 mm engine cold. I put them both right in the middle.
  11. green hell

    green hell yawning or snarling

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    domo arigato!
  12. Klay

    Klay dreaming adventurer

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    :ilmostro
  13. Tom S

    Tom S Can I ride it?

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    I bought a 2001 DR 200 for some friends about 6 weeks ago. Had it here & worked on it a lot for almost two weeks before they picked it up. It is for the 18 year old daughter & the wife of my friend, so I wanted it to be right, & a good first experience for the girl. He is not much of a mech, so I am the guy they sometimes go to for this stuff.
    In any case, they did not get to ride it much at all & it sat for almost 2 weeks. Then the batt was dead. We push started it, but the batt died again in short order. It also had/has a very erratic idle. They got a new batt, having the old one load tested. Old one was shot.
    I put the batt in tonight, started it up, then tested with a volt meter through the lead I added for a battery tender, 14 volts ±. Seemed to drop to 13.9 ± when we revved it up a bit. Not bad I guess.
    Rode it around their streets a bit. Idle is still erratic, & cant seem to get it to settle.
    When we parked the bike I put the batt tender back on & got a red light, charging. After about a minute it still had not gone green. I tried the batt tender on the battery before I installed it. The battery had sat for 3- 4 days since they bought it. The battery tender light went from red to green in about 15 seconds. This is what I expected to see after running the bike. It was late, so I did not stay around to see how long it would take to charge up.
    I thought that I read that these things would run without the battery ?? If not, maybe this has something to do with the way it idles. That does not really sound likely to me however, but it could be related.
    I had no problems like this while I had the bike here. I think it sat for a week while I worked on it. Started & ran ok.

    Can someone tell me where to look, what to check to see if this thing is charging like it should? I do not have a shop manual, & have no clue as to where to start looking. Pix would be helpful-- :D :shog

    The carb:
    I took it apart when I had it here, it was very clean. All the jets were clean. I am still wondering if I missed looking at one though.
    When I first picked the bike up, it seemed that it did not drop back to an idle as soon as it should when the throttle was chopped. I suspected an air leak, never found one. Or the slide sticking, but it is free. It was also very gutless when starting out. Way bad. A definite problem.
    After going through the carb & starting the bike, I adjusted the pilot screw. It was way off, so that helped a lot. Still seems gutless to me.
    I couldn't pop a wheelie in first. I'll just have to try a little harder I guess. :lol3 When I get it running better.

    There was a hole burned through the foam air filter, like the bike had had a bad backfiring problem. I also thought that the diaphragm looked, maybe, stretched.
    I thought it should fit a bit tighter at the top, seemed a little bunched up, sticking up into the area of the cover. Wish I had taken a pic of that. If, or when, I have to take the carb apart again, I will take a pic. Made me wonder about the backfiring, and if that could have stretched the diaphragm. The most expensive part of the carb, about $100.

    They can not afford to take this to the dealer.
    Indeed, I have heard bad things about the Suzuki shop here. The guy I bought the bike from claimed that he had them service & tune the bike this spring. I don't know what they did, & that carb was far from the right tune. The front brake is real poor too. I rode another DR 200, it was much faster than this one before I worked on the carb, and the brake was better. I need to try some new pads, these might have been a bit oily.
    I feel obligated to take care of this for them as I am the one that picked out the bike. Small used affordable (cheap) DS bikes are hard to come by.
    I would sure appreciate any help I can get on this, especially the charging thing.

    And the Mom is very enthusiastic about riding it, more than the Daughter. She is a sweetie! :raabia

    [​IMG]
    Thanks in advance! :bow
  14. Klay

    Klay dreaming adventurer

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    Tom,

    I checked the manual, and the first step toward checking your charging system is checking the battery voltage. Check across the terminals of the battery with a voltmeter with the engine at about 5,000 rpm. If the voltage is between 13 and 16 volts, the charging system is okay. How do you know when the bike is at 5,000 rpm? If you don't have a rev counter, I would just wind it way up to about the rpm where you're going 40 or 50 or so.

    The bike only generates about 150 watts at most when the engine is revved, so if you take it out and just putz around a little at low speeds, the battery won't be fully charged when you put it away. So it would be normal that the bettery tender would charge a little bit.

    I'm guessing the charging system and battery are fine.

    If the bike is stock, the carb is adjusted really lean, so when the bike is not fully warmed up, it's a gutless wonder. Make sure you test the bike only when it is completely, thoroughly warmed up. If the bike is still running rough at idle, it probably needs some more carb cleaning since it sat for so long. The diaphragm is really thin and flexible, so that may be normal.

    If there was a hole in the foam filter, that may cause the bike to run a little lean also.

    Beyond these things, you can start looking for things like air leaks...make sure the vacuum hose to the petcock isn't cracked and so on. Another thing that happens with the DR200 is the petcock starts to leak over time and fuel overflowing the carb collects in a puddle in the bottom of the air box. This makes the bike run bad, too. Replacing the petcock and the needle/seat assembly cures this.

    Make sure it gets run reall hard before you decided it needs any more work, maybe it'll clear out. I love my little DR200...I rode it to work in the rain today. It gets used more than all my other bikes. Good luck!
  15. Tom S

    Tom S Can I ride it?

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    Thanks Klay.
    Only tested when thoroughly warmed up, carb is real clean & it did not sit that long.
    I fixed the hole problem right off, foam patch.
    Yeah, I gotta check that again, & try running it on prime, I suspect an air leak or a fuel delivery problem for sure. Very erratic idle, it is either way high, or, after adjusting, just keeps creeping down & bike dies. Funny part is that when you first start it, it seems fine for quite some time. Even when warmed up enough. Then goes to hell.
    I know about the leaking petcock problem. I hate those vacuum operated petcocks.
    Gotta mess with the carb tune some more too. I was not able to get back over there yet, but they tried running it a bit more, it still ain't right. Said it stalled & could only get it started by using the choke! That tells me something right there. Then ran the batt down again.

    Oh, I rang its little neck when I last rode it. :D
    I am sure I can get the carb sorted when I get the chance.
    The charging is the part that really concerns me. Like I said, it was 14 volts ± when we checked it. I will rev it up higher next check.
    This could be something that is intermittent.
    <strike>Can someone tell me if the voltage regulator the little finned gizmo right near the positive battery cable connection under the seat?</strike>
    Edit: I see that that is the rectifier. :shog
    Thanks again!
  16. Tom S

    Tom S Can I ride it?

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    Battery charging is ok, on to the carb. Still a problem.

    Did a lot of testing, pulled & went through the carb again, found nothing blew out all passages with compressed air. Slide does not stick, but acts like it. You can see the slide when it is running after removing air filter. (oops, forgot, the air filter was soaked with gas at the bottom! did not have time to check that again after getting it running. Petcock is working as it should) Maybe the air jet screw was off due to my last messing with it hot, set it to 1.5 turns out. Started it up, seemed to act the same at first, but improved slightly, was rideable. Does not always drop to idle as it should, & slow to do so. If you cut the ignition & turn it on again real quick after the engine is almost stopped, (lower vacuum), it drops down to normal. Weird.
    Does anyone think this looks normal? Diaphragm bunched up at the top, should it be tighter?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    No holes.

    I can't find any info on this carb, not ever the bore size. I want to find see if one of my old, 'normal', no diaphragm, Mikunis will fit.
    Grrr--
  17. Whitey Jr

    Whitey Jr Been here awhile

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    Awesome thread!!! I tried to go through the entire thread to see if anyone addressed this already or not, but had to stop after the first 8 pages. I've been looking for a good set of hand guards for my 2006 DR200SE and have been encountering problems. I ended up buying a pair of the Suzuki-brand guards for the DR650, and modifying them, but I'd still prefer to get a set of the complete "wraparound" kind that attach to the end of the bars. Which brings me to another issue...The bar-ends appear to be solid. Is it worth trying to drill, or just break down for a new set of bars altogether? So far all of the OEM guards I've looked at don't have enough clearance for the hand controls. Any ideas??

    -Whitey Jr
  18. Tom S

    Tom S Can I ride it?

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    So I went test riding with the Lady Thursday night. Bike still not right. Keeps revving up for no good reason. Cut the ignition for an instant so the revs drop down then turn it back on real quick and it idles ok, but soon increases to maybe 1500-2K rpm.
    Then she thinks it suddenly loses some power. I try it out, sure enough it is acting about like it did when I first picked it up.
    Limping home on some slow streets & the back wheel locks up on her as she is coming to a stop.
    Engine is locked up. :baldy
    Friday night I pull the flywheel cover and some sort of adjustment screw falls out. It is all chewed up & the cam chain is laying in the bottom of the case below the flywheel. One tooth is busted off the large gear behind the flywheel.
    I did not know what that chewed up adjustment screw was, but now think it is one of the rocker arm adjustment screws. Great.
    Do those adjustment screws have a straight slot for a screwdriver?
    I need a flywheel puller and a service/shop manual for starters.
    Do I have to go to the stealer for those? Can't find any on line & do not know the thread size for the puller. 27 mm? Forgot to check if it is left or rh thread too.
    Hoping there is not too much damage & that I don't have too pull the head & jug to replace the chain. And whatever else is screwed up.
    Anybody?
    No one made any comments about the diaphragm pix I posted.
    Damn Suzuki. [​IMG]
  19. Klay

    Klay dreaming adventurer

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    That diaphragm looks about like mine, on my normally functioning DR200.

    Too bad about the motor...sounds like it'll need a complete overhaul. The service manual is about $50 at the dealer. The tappet clearance adjustment screw has a slot in it like you describe. You're in new territory for me, I've never had to take that motor apart.


  20. wickedsprint

    wickedsprint Banned

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    My Buddies 01' has the same idle issues, we'll come to a light, and it'll be screaming, so he'll turn it down..then two lights later...same deal. I almost wonder if the idle speed set screw is backing out...HMM It always starts right back up though, might even be an issue with the vacumm petcock not flowing the right amount of fuel, cause one day we didn't pay any attention to the high idle and he had actually ran it out of gas, switched to reserve and all was good. So I suspect the idle screw is backing out, or the vacumm petcock is being finicky.

    I just thought of this, run it around on 'Prime" and see if the idle calms down a bit, if so, the petcock is the problem. A DRZ400E manual petcock drops right in, but you'll wanna switch the standpipes to hit reserve at the right time as the DRZ400E has a narrower taller tank.

    I just read the other issue, yes the adjusters usually have a flats lot through them, if the gear on the crank is removable, you're golden and not likely to need to split the cases. Looking at the fische online it looks like the gear is not removable though. (right side) If the bike is in good shape it is still worth rebuilding though.

    [​IMG]