The DR350 and I go on a diet

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by hondabtr, Oct 18, 2017.

  1. hondabtr

    hondabtr Been here awhile

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    "... in fact its my bike you linked a pic of the crf footpegs from earlier"
    I thank you fo rthe picture and if I hadn't ripped the picture I would have given credit. It's a no brainer mod.

    "one other thought is the wiring loom, rebuilt in thinner wire with the nonsense parts removed it is much lighter" Coming soon

    I am planning to try to fit a KX450 muffler. I hate loud mufflers and I read that most if not all aftermarkets are loud and you have to repack them. Im seeing a semi-serious weight difference, and it has a spark arrestor already in it.
  2. Hario

    Hario Been here awhile

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    Im 6'4", and the crf pegs with a .5 to 1" bar riser totally transformed my bikes handling, and made the c of g feel much lower. I did also want a higher seat than the stock SE one though, but never got around to sourcing one. I used my DR mostly for trail riding and really appreciated the neutral standing position.

    A good mate of mine made a complete new loom for his SE, his bike had electrical gremlins driving him mad so decided to go with a fresh start. I will ask him about it and see if he has any useful experiences to pass on.

    Ive no experience of the KX muffler, but also dislike loud bikes. I made this vid to help me choose between my exhausts that might interest you


    Like a fool i sold my DR this year during a layup while a shattered wrist healed up, i will have to start all over with another bike now :doh i rode over 20,000 happy miles on that bike
  3. hellotimmutton

    hellotimmutton Adventurer

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    There seems to be a lot of the wiring loom that can be straight up eliminated. At work, but the first that come to mind are the starter relay and the set up for the "park" option on the key switch
  4. hondabtr

    hondabtr Been here awhile

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    Absolutely
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  5. Hario

    Hario Been here awhile

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    I recall my friend did the math and discovered the wire thickness was much more than needed, and higher quality wire had a far thinner sheath. There are quite a lot of redundant connectors, diodes etc. that can be eliminated. There is also a lot of heavy tubing covering parts of the loom that can be replaced with wrapped tape iirc

    His bike has run great for years
  6. hondabtr

    hondabtr Been here awhile

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  7. toates89

    toates89 Been here awhile

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    I would be really interested in how you layout you new harness.
  8. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

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    I would not delete the starter relay.
  9. hondabtr

    hondabtr Been here awhile

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    Yup, I think he meant some other relay. Starter is kinda important
  10. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

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  11. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

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    The kickstand relay should defiantly be deleted. There is a kickstand safety switch, and relay in addition to the switch. Relay is located off a little tang attached to the regulator rectifier. My 95 was GIVEN to me because the PO could not figure out why the bike didn't run (among other reasons too). Turns out this KSS relay was bad.
  12. hondabtr

    hondabtr Been here awhile

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    Good stuff. Lots more happening on his than mine though. I'll have a headlight, hi/lo switch, kill switch, start button, key switch on/off only, tailights, and other CDI, coils, rec/reg etc. Uber simple
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  13. hellotimmutton

    hellotimmutton Adventurer

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    Kickstabnd/Sidestand relay* whoops
  14. hondabtr

    hondabtr Been here awhile

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    Hey guys, I need your experience. Here is a very simple wiring diagram I modified some (please forgive the crudity). Am I missing anything here? I want everything to run through an on/off key switch. I will fuse each circuit. It has been revised per Rebuilder post below
    [​IMG]
  15. Rebuilder

    Rebuilder Been here awhile

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    The B/Y on the kill switch should go to the B/Y on the CDI. The way you have it would short the battery to ground if you hit the button. Are you using a momentary kill switch or a Run/Off switch? If momentary then get rid of the orange wire going into the kill switch and keep the lighter orange going to the start button. If Run/Off then keep the orange wire going to the kill switch and run the lighter orange wire from the lower right slot in the kill switch to the starter button instead of T'ting it into the orange wire as on your drawing. That got confusing fast!!
  16. hondabtr

    hondabtr Been here awhile

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    Momentary. I see it now. So it should be B/Y and B/W?.. and the blower is on the way
  17. Rebuilder

    Rebuilder Been here awhile

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    Yes. All the kill switch does is momentarily ground the B/Y wire.
  18. Rebuilder

    Rebuilder Been here awhile

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    For your lights..... If you want to keep the dimmer switch then connect Orange to the Y/W on the dimmer for the main headlight power, connect Yellow from the dimmer to the headlight for high beam and connect Brown to Orange for the taillight. Wired like this the lights would turn on whenever you turn the ignition switch on.
  19. hondabtr

    hondabtr Been here awhile

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    Hmmmm I see the confusion. The "dimmer switch" will be a SPST on/off switch. I am using separate hi and low lights. I went orange from the switch, yellow to headlight for low beam, then more yellow to hi/lo switch then white to high beam. Then brown to taillight to the rear. If its coming hot out of orange, how do I not have power to head and tail lights?
  20. Rebuilder

    Rebuilder Been here awhile

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    Ahh it didn't look like Orange was connected to the Yellow. So low beam will be one light on and high beam will be both lights on?