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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.
I've got some high speed stumbling issues hopefully someone can enlighten me on.
Here is the low down; '07 with air box mod, screen removed, TwinAir filter, Dynojet kit with 160, needle 4th notch, fuel screw 2 1/2 out, and slide drilled. Stock exhaust, and I also removed the OEM fuel filter and replaced with an in-line as I am using an IMS tank.
Low to mid range runs awesome, get up to 65-70 starts to stumble a little like it's starving for fuel, and after a high speed run the other day (got up to about 85), it stumbled, and died on me. I pulled over, could see I still had fuel in the filter, and then it started right back up.
Any suggestions? Thanks
Different and original. I like it, but it wouldn't work for me. I can't get the mud stains off my purple/ yellow seat. People will be pulling over thinking it's an ambulance.
Don't change a thing. ('cept maybe black forkboots)
What type of mirrors are they?? I have the same model but want to get rid of the crap mirrors.
PS looking good! the seats not to my taste but apart from that looking pretty clean! Looks similar to mine although a LOT cleaner
PROCYCLE, thanx for the info, saved me some headache.
Sounds like it is starved for fuel at higher demands. So a couple of things to check. Float level/sticking so it doesn't have enough fuel in the float bowl. Tank venting so that at high flow it isn't getting enough air in the tank and it is getting a vacuum and starving the engine. Or maybe the fuel filter you added doesn't flow fuel fast enough.
Eliminate the easy one first, check the gas cap to make sure it is letting air in well. If that isn't it, then remove the fuel filter and test. Then check the float.
If it were just a too small main or needle position it would just stumble along, not die. So that is why I'm suggesting fuel flow.
Update on my issue, I am pretty sure the oil is the problem. I did an oil change and it felt better but when I heated the bike up and got it to highway speeds, problem came back. What do I need to do to further clean the clutch? Should I get new clutch plates?
Back in June I had a meltdown in the wiring harness on my DR650. VFR870 sent me a new wiring harness from a parts bike (thanks Steve). Saturday night I got around to installing that harness. The original "fire" was in the area of the starter relay, it burned away about 9" of insulation. It also melted lots of wires togther. Well everything went fine till I got into the harness behind the headlight. I found several wires melted together there also. Turns out that it was the pigtail from the starter button. Can't quite figure what happened that a fuse didn't pop, but that's water over the dam.
I was Googling for answers because Suzuki wants about $65 for the Killbutton/starterbutton, and found on TT that Moose Racing sells a starter button for a DRZ 250/400 that plugs right into the DR650 for $23. It should be in this week (I ordered it this morn). I'll post here whether it is as promoted on TT.
anyone have any thoughts as to what happened in my start system that burned my bike to a stop?
You could take the plates out and try soaking them in something that will get the oil off them. (for a short time)
Most likely new plates are your surest route.
I have about the same setup as you here in Seattle. I found that the 160 MJ was too big. I went to the 155 from the DJ kit and the bike is very noticeably happier.
What kind of fuel filter are you using? If it's a sintered metal type it may not flow enoguh gas.
What are you using for a vent hose on the cap? When it starts choking, open the cap and see if it picks back up.
What petcock are you using?
If you're not using the stock Suzuki petcock, Is the vacuum port on top of the carb capped off?
Is the fuel hose kinked or pinched at all between the tank and carb? Look for a tight bend in the fuel line.
When checking for fuel flow, check the flow from the drain on the carb float bowl. When you yank the line and just check for flow from the hose you don't know how it flows into and through the carb. I use a length of clear 1/4" hose off the bottom of the carb and see how it flows into a jar or container over a few minutes. If it flow good at first then slows down you might have a tank venting issue.
Give it a couple days with the new oil - I had the same problem with my old GS500 after using car oil and it got better after a little time with the new oil and then another oil change a month or so after.
Nice bike. You should seriously consider adding a skid plate next!
Hola, Welcome to ADV! I can see your'e getting the full treatment right away. Dez juz funnin'.
I like your bike, it's really tricked out nice. However, it wouldn't be that clean if I had it for a while, that's why I painted mine grey. Those are mirrors, and the gold gaters look cool. Variation makes life interesting.
It's strange that the main 30A fuse on the starter relay didnt pop but allowed the wires to melt the insulation.
If the starter button contacts shorted against each other, it would have been cranking away until something gave, so I guess I'm just blabbing here without an answer for you.
If for whatever reason that button doesnt work out go to Radio Shack and get a large momentary push button, it can be fitted to the original switch housing with very little difficulty. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=10214824&postcount=25501
Glad that harness worked out for you.
Not a great shot,but here it is.Radio Shack button.
Your Dr is sweet, where did you get the white seat cover?
Any more pics?
Thanks for the replies. I'm using the petcock that came with the IMS tank, and I do have a metal type fuel filter. I'm gonna ride it to work tonight so I'll check the venting and if thats not it I'll do the other checks tomorrow. Thanks again guys.
You don't have to remove the clutch assy, I just did it today, takes a little patience to unscrew the back one, here's what I did:
With the bike laying down,
Sharpened a punch and bump it into the screw head in the loosening direction, it came loose pretty easy, once it was loose I used a magnetized screwdriver to continue to unscrew it until it was out
I kept the front screw in because there seems to be a spring under the unit,... I changed it to the allen after the back one was in
Put the allen screw in with long nose pliers and use a ball tip allen wrench 1 size small for the extra play to easily screw it down into place then tightened it with the correct size
The factory screws are 5mm x 15mm x .8 pitch, but I replaced them with 5mm x 20mm x .8 Allens so I could shim up the head, If you look close you can see two 5mm washers under each allen head.
This is so the holes used to run the wire through clear the top of the NSU unit itself otherwise it sits below and it would be a hassle to get the wire around
You need long nose pliers to do the wire work,...
Stuff a paper towel in the hole below the work so nothing falls into the motor (not shown)
I was ready to take the clutch assy out until I saw someone a few pages back do it this way...
thanks for this information, I have to do this very soon. Once I find the right time I will do it.
What I am hesitating so is, I hear so many have layed down the bike to do so, wouldn't the bike get scratched when you remove all the bolts from the side cover? I mean the bike might move a round a bit? Even if you put some kartons under it?
Also will the big sidecover gasket not get destroyed once you remove the side cover?
I guess I have to drill the holes into the Allen bolts first and get some wire to do the job.
If it is really possible I will try not to remove the clutch.
Thanks for any answer.
I did it on the side stand with a piece of wood under each wheel to lift the bike a few inches.
You could also do it at the next oil change after the oil is drained.
I know a lot don't but the clutch was easy to remove and refit,I used Loctite cleaning agent on the stock retainers and case threads then blue Loctite.
I guess at the end of the day its what works whatever way you do it.
Got back Sunday from a 8000 km + trip to Cape York and back,go the DR.