the DR650 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.

  1. Elvis70

    Elvis70 No speed traps in the sky

    Joined:
    May 8, 2008
    Oddometer:
    5,058
    Location:
    Fayetteville, AR
    Want a similar tire to the TKC 80 for half price try the Metzeler Karoo 2. I have a rear on now and love it. Caught some Michilin T-63's on sale even cheaper at MC Supersrore and they are setting in the garage now.
  2. Rusty Rocket

    Rusty Rocket Life behind "Bars"

    Joined:
    Dec 22, 2005
    Oddometer:
    11,659
    Location:
    Trying to leave CT
    All true. I replaced mine with the Yam part for about $20 (US). You have to block the vacuum line at the carb. Perfect fit and they come with a gasket. (I bought a gasket when I ordered the petcock and didn'nt need it)
  3. Elvis70

    Elvis70 No speed traps in the sky

    Joined:
    May 8, 2008
    Oddometer:
    5,058
    Location:
    Fayetteville, AR
    I live where you trail ride and I have the 14t on the bike and it really isn't a big deal at 70 at all. Still nice and smooth. The sprocket doesn't cost much and if you don't like it will sell easily I am sure.

    I was concerned about the highway riding too, but has proved to be a non issue for me.
  4. FatChance

    FatChance Road Captain

    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2003
    Oddometer:
    11,694
    Location:
    Durango, Colorado, USA
    I told you not to ask!
  5. NordieBoy

    NordieBoy Armature speller

    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2006
    Oddometer:
    7,172
    Location:
    Kiwiland
    My '01 were finger tight at 51,000km when I checked them.

    My '97 had one finger tight and one missing at 28,000km when I bought it (upper chain roller was already ripped out too).

    A magnetic sump bolt found the other screw :freaky
    [​IMG]
  6. Mr. B

    Mr. B RiderCoach

    Joined:
    Oct 19, 2004
    Oddometer:
    2,067
    Location:
    Minneapolis
    Haha! Thanks for the insight. I'm not one of those worriers, but I'm new to the DR scene and I have to sift through the real vs. hyped concerns. It seems like every bike has a "known problem" that is really given a lot of bandwidth without much cause.

    Maybe the next time I'm in Durango I'll stop by and say "hi".
  7. ADVBedouin

    ADVBedouin fly pelican!

    Joined:
    Aug 2, 2009
    Oddometer:
    576
    Location:
    CA. Central Coast
    I really like my black Renthal Fatbars, but I'm not sure what bend/rise they are...didn't need any longer cables or re-routing as they're only slightly higher than stock bars. I used the ProTaper handlebar clamps like those sold on the www.procycle.us site & used my stock mounting bolts with them. It's all worked out great.

  8. Rusty Rocket

    Rusty Rocket Life behind "Bars"

    Joined:
    Dec 22, 2005
    Oddometer:
    11,659
    Location:
    Trying to leave CT
    I checked mine and they were both loose. Worth a check, but it's your call.
  9. grub

    grub Requires Supervision

    Joined:
    May 15, 2009
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    2,251
    Location:
    Waiting for a green light on the red line
    I have to get over to Durango more often and learn the ways of the world, we just don't have any Albanians on this side of the pass at all.
  10. FatChance

    FatChance Road Captain

    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2003
    Oddometer:
    11,694
    Location:
    Durango, Colorado, USA
    It is a rather well kept secret. :nod

    Let me know when you're over here and I'll show you the mean streets of Durango...
  11. Mr. B

    Mr. B RiderCoach

    Joined:
    Oct 19, 2004
    Oddometer:
    2,067
    Location:
    Minneapolis
    It doesn't look like a big deal to check. I'm just not going to worry about it. If I get the time and get curious, I'll check it out.
  12. rudolf35

    rudolf35 Warped & Twisted Mind

    Joined:
    Jun 15, 2008
    Oddometer:
    840
    Location:
    Arlington, TX
    I have the 14 tooth CG and spacer on the way to me. Between your observations and some other users I do not think there will be a issue; I tend to over thing issues. Just do eh what?

    :clap
  13. Lornce

    Lornce Lost In Place

    Joined:
    Aug 17, 2003
    Oddometer:
    19,726
    Location:
    Way Out There.
    Okay, I love ADV to death. But the search function really sucks. :augie

    How do I check the neutral switch screws on my wife's new-to-her DR650?
    Which side case cover needs to come off to access it?

    Help me be a star.

    :D
  14. vnp514

    vnp514 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2007
    Oddometer:
    631
    Location:
    Eastern Washington State
  15. blackcap

    blackcap Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jul 21, 2008
    Oddometer:
    565
    Location:
    Wollongong aka stink-town, Australia
    I’m looking for someone that has an intimate knowledge of the internals of the DRs cases, particularly the left half. I’ll start with a bit of background to where I’m at today.
    <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p> </o:p>
    • 5<SUP>th</SUP> gear self detonated.
    • Engine was stripped, all bits cleaned out, new transmission and bearing all the way through.
    • During disassembly I noticed that some of the bearings have one seal left in them so I took photos of how the bearings were mounted in the left half of the case so that I could put them back in the correct way.
    • instead of getting OEM bearings and oil seals I went to the local bearing shop and got the equivalents where I could, taking one of the seals out of the sealed bearings so that they all matched the OEM ones that I had pulled out.
    • Once the engine was back in the frame, I went for a quick ride and found that the driven shaft oil seal was leaking after the oil pressure behind it had pushed it out.
    • I then replaced the oil seal with an old OEM seal. It was so old that it split the lip and was useless. I did notice some differences however between the two seals. The OEM one has a lip around the outer mounting surface that looks like it might hold in a little better than the generic one. The OEM seal also has small raised dimples on the back of it that look as though they may hold the seal off the bearing slightly when its fitted and allow for better flow of oil between the seal and bearing, so that the oil can continue through the oil gallery drilled in the casing that leads to the adjacent bearing (I believe this is the drive shaft bearing).
    • I then had another generic seal installed and tried using some silicon (3 bond) to help it stick in place. This pushed out in the same way that the other one did.
    So my next step is to try again with an OEM seal and some sort of retaining compound, weather it be silicon, loctite or something else. But I’ve also been thinking about the way in which I installed the bearings and seals. I am hoping someone can confirm the orientation of the seals for the LHS drive shaft and driven shaft. At the moment I believe that I have the seals facing outwards on both bearings.
    <o:p> </o:p>
    I would really like to confirm some things about the bearings and the presence of the seals, my fear being that the extra oil pressure I’m seeing at the driven shaft oil seal is a result of oil not flowing through the drive shaft bearing properly (being stopped by the single seal I’ve left in the bearing?). This could mean im running that bearing with less oil than is required which will lead to another failure. :cry
    <o:p> </o:p>
    So in summary:
    • what recommendations are out there for a retaining compound for the driven shaft oil seal to keep it from popping out?
    • does anyone have specific details on the presence and orientation of oil seals located in the bearings for the LHS drive and driven shafts?
    <o:p> </o:p>
    Any info that will help with the potential decision to pull the engine out and strip it down (again) to check that everything is in the right location and orientation would be appreciated. Thanks guys!
  16. aardschok

    aardschok Fallout Rider

    Joined:
    Jan 28, 2007
    Oddometer:
    568
    Location:
    State of Apathy
    any one notice the oil line from the cooler getting a "kink"?
    I had to put a clamp on just to keep the curve in the hose.

    [​IMG]

    I positioned the clamp so that the flat of the clamp is on the top and bottom of the kink.

    Hope this helps others.
  17. Lornce

    Lornce Lost In Place

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    Aug 17, 2003
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    19,726
    Location:
    Way Out There.
  18. Northyork

    Northyork Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 25, 2009
    Oddometer:
    271
    Location:
    Canada
    Check out this link >>>>>>>>> http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=12484916&postcount=33071

  19. Ganjora

    Ganjora class A bollockser

    Joined:
    Jul 19, 2006
    Oddometer:
    152
    Location:
    Johannesburg, South Africa
    i have that setup. 7/8 pro taper ATV high bars on sock clamps. no problem.
  20. blackcap

    blackcap Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jul 21, 2008
    Oddometer:
    565
    Location:
    Wollongong aka stink-town, Australia
    i remember seeing that before but for me a retainer plate is a VERY last option. ill probably pull the engine apart again to check everything before commiting to a retainer plate. the seal stayed in for 58000km so theres no reason it shouldnt stay in now unless something has changed. and if it has changed i need to know what it is so i can decide if it is going to possibly cause problems further down the line.