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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.
Can you take a closer photo with the light turned off ? Would be nice to see the installation. Tnx.
thanks for the tips and the confidence, I think I'm in, the money I would save is a huge factor.
That's what these guys do best. They talked me into a DR650 just two days ago!
It is raining around here, so I decided to update the chart with the latest info.
I've done 750 mile days on my DR, its a long haul on a bike like this. If you allow yourself 18 hours or so, its not bad, although I don't know that I'd feel like racing a bicycle the next day :huh. That having been said, I don't often feel like racing a bicycle at all so YMMV.
Quick question for those with RAD hubs on their Supermoto setups. Is there a specific spacer for the disc side of the front hub? When I went to install my second hand supermoto set with my stock spacer, the tire is rubbing the left fork leg pretty good. Making me think that a longer than stock spacer is need to push the wheel over to the right a bit, so as to center everything up.
Colorado Col Rider, You do know that you will have to write a report on both of the rides, DR 650 and the Road Bike, and post it here, and pictures are always nice.
Nope. The RAD hubs use the stock spacers. They fit just like stock hubs.
Northyork - thing of beauty! Thanks for doing that. When I finally get around to opening the carb, I'll get the set up.
I'm currently in the middle of ProCycle's Shock Solution Kit with a heavier spring. Evidently, I'm not tall enough for my weight. ProCycle's instructions on their site help a lot and the Race Tech video (included) adds the finishing touch.
One tricky item but straight forward for a back yard mechanic.
It's all a puzzle, just get the pieces in the right place.
Bike just shut off today. Moved the wiring harness around a little and was able to get it to start. Drove 100 yards and it quit again. No headlite no starter. Nothing. The wires that seemed to get it going when I moved them were the ones coming outta the keyswitch.
Carefully check cable and wire bundle routing. The bundle going into the ignition may be abrading somewhere, or is being pulled on by mis-routed Speedo or clutch cable. Check everything as you turn bars to and fro. May help shed light on where the problem lies.
Take everything off .... tank, headlight shroud. Have a long look. Lets hope its something simple.
If its isolated to the ignition wires right under the switch, then you can disassemble things and UN-PLUG the ignition switch from main bundle, then using Torx Security bit, you can un-bolt the ignition switch, install new a one which comes with NEW wiring/plug.
Take your time, look for abraded wire that is grounding somewhere or a wire pulled out of connector or something. Use VOM meter to check for continuity as you "wiggle" wires. May turn up where fault is.
I had a similar fault with my DR200. Taking the keys out and reaching in behind the light to jiggle the wires always got it to start. Until it didn't. And then I had to tear it apart on the sidewalk, 20km from home or work.
Turned out that the fault was a loose battery terminal. Those suckers need tightening with a spanner, not a screwdriver.
The only explanation I can come up with for the red-herring fix of jiggling the wires was that getting off the bike and rooting around moved the bike enough to move the battery or associated cabling around and get contact.
A prime example of correlation not being causation.
So, I got my wheels mounted up and everything fits nicely, except...
It looks like the offset of the front wheel is goofy. I have maybe 1/8" clearance from the tire to the left fork leg. The right leg has waay more room. So, I'm guessing my front rim needs to be loosened and shifted over, so as to get some even clearance going on.
Cheers Luushen. I'll figure it out.
The left hand pipe is actually a dummy. Took a moulding of my supertrapps end cap and made a resin casting of it. Painted it Alluminium and slapped into a length of 90mm PVC tubing to make a tool kit to carry tyre levers, stand, repair kit etc.
"just kids having fun"
It sounds like whoever laced it didn't have a clue. It just needs to be shifted over. You can do that with the wheel mounted on the bike and tightening spokes on the right side and loosening them on the left.
Post em up if you get a chance. Sorry for the late reply been busy, including riding at the SLAP rally yesterday here in AR.
OK got a question.
I feel my bikes bars are not lined up by just a bit even though the fender is straight over the front tire and I have loosened the mounts and squared up the bars, I know how they get tweaked in a fall with those rubber mounts.
I hit a horse a couple of years ago and just don't feel right anymore. My pro tapers look straight, but it seems to me the triple tree itself is off bit.
Can the top and the bottom where the fender mounts be twisted in relation to each other?
I swear when I am breaking and my weight is going forward on the bars that it is feels uneven, like the bike isn't stable on center. It also just doesn't drop into to turns naturally. Particularly at slo speeds like it used to.
Suspension question. My DR has not been lowered but if I reduce the preload on the rear enough to get it soft enough to suit me it will barely stand on the kick stand is standing so straight up. I put more preload back in because of this and it is just too harsh (I weigh 150 and only a small factory rack bag on the rear). Also would reducing the shock compression increase sag at all? Thinking I may need the shortened stand on a un lowered bike.
How many inches of sag should I have and how much more when I sit on it? It don't move much when I sit on it.
How much impact could this have on my perceived handling problems mentioned in my last post?
Thanks for any insight from the DR gurus.
I figured it was either that, or they had a brain fart that day.
Whenever that happens to me, I'll have someone straddle the wheel with their legs and I'll give a jerk of the bars in the direction needed to fix it. Usually that will do the trick needed to correct the bar/wheel relationship. If ya don't have a willing buddy, wedging the wheel into something works too.