the DR650 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.

  1. jenx

    jenx misadventurer

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    Yup, that's right. In that case he'd be running rich on the 150 mikuni.

    My bike is a US import, which did not have the adjustable mikuni needle.

    Apologies, Dylan, I think trailrider is right.
  2. Rusty Rocket

    Rusty Rocket Life behind "Bars"

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    Tire pressure will also affect MPG. The Mefo's probably have more rolling friction.
  3. Rusty Rocket

    Rusty Rocket Life behind "Bars"

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    That was filmed with a handlebar camera on a DR650 riding on railroad tracks.
  4. Adv Grifter

    Adv Grifter on the road o'dreams

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    Passing ADV Stalkers in California
    Too many DR guys over tighten the Four 10mm axle clamp nuts. Tighten them in step sequence, not too tight. I think the main Axle is 19mm. I made a small, custom tool for this. I use a small slip over for a breaker bar,
    makes this part easy. The Axle needs to be very tight! I've forgotten torque spec but its high.

    Front tires are easy, rear tire is where you'll have trouble. Some rear tires are tough to break the bead on. I use THREE tire irons and dish soap. Having a buddy stand on the tire can help. Been years since I read Neduro's thread, I'm sure its good.
  5. WhichWayNow

    WhichWayNow Been here awhile

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    Oct 27, 2009
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    Boise, ID
    I'm not sure about the weight difference. There could be something to that.

    I've considered the possibility of a height/circumference difference. I checked the bike odometer vs GPS odometer on the Mefos. They were very close. Unfortunately, I never checked that for the TWings. A larger front would result in lower odometer miles.


    I've checked my pressures and have them 30psi front and 36 psi rear, so I'm not under inflated. Like you said, it must be the rolling resistance due to the different tread pattern.
  6. ADVBedouin

    ADVBedouin Rider

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    Aug 2, 2009
    Oddometer:
    537
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    CA. Central Coast
    Josh_TN -you are a gacious gentleman.

    Gabe, there's been some great advice given, tire pressures, hydration, healthy food, etc & Rick's secondary roads vs; Interstates is really good advice, especially considering the speed differentials, but the overall riding experience will be so much better too. You're in for an amazing trip & riding X-country is sooo cool.

    If no one's recommended it & you've the time/money, a windscreen of some sort makes a big difference. I'm 6'1" (stock seat) & have a suzuki B-King screen from Laminar Lip (They're in L.A. which is next day to you via UPS ground) on my DR650 which takes all the windblast off my chest/arms/shoulders, reduces fatigue, leaving my helmet in clean air to enjoy my tunes (& listening to music, while less safe, is really nice on long rides). -Just my .2.

    I posted a write up on the 30-45 minute installation if you're interested. You can mount it with 3M dual locks & if you don't end up liking it, you can sell it easily on ADVR. I also find my stock gearing feels just fine at 70-75mph. If you get really cold, stuffing newspapers under your jacket/front of your jeans helps a lot. If you get really hot, a soaking wet t-shirt under your jacket feels like air-conditioning.

    People have travelled the world on clapped out 250's, so you'll be riding in style on the big DR. Have a great ride, I think it'll be really therapeutic.

    [​IMG]

  7. thumpididump

    thumpididump MacGyver

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    Germany
  8. Yokomo

    Yokomo Dirt Rider

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    The Little Apple
    Where is a good place for DR650 info?
    This big thread is quite random.
  9. foxfire

    foxfire YRUYUR?

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    just passing through...
    Here and T.T., search is your friend...
  10. etmoto

    etmoto Adventurer

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    Jan 3, 2009
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    480
    The search engine on Advrider is good enough.
  11. basketcase

    basketcase lifelong reject fixer

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    Roll Tide Central, Alabama
    I just looked and I have 26 DR specific thread saved in my subscriptions. Some of them are repetitive.

    Although it has to be "gleaned" from the random postings, the two big DR threads here offer a lot of good info.

    So there's this one, another entitled "Who has the most tricked out DR?"

    Enjoy.

    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=117546

    PS: I am one of the worst about popping a question on impulse only to find out ump-teen thousand other inmates have already asked it, but my impulsiveness notwithstanding that Search feature is pretty good. :thumb
  12. Elvis70

    Elvis70 No speed traps in the sky

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    Location:
    Fayetteville, AR
    Ok I just oredered some aftermarket bearings for the DR steering stem and looking for advice.

    I can pull the forks, bars and all that, I did the fork seals myself, but never done bearings.

    How hard are they to get out, need any special tools? What about dropping in the new ones? Do they rest on a lip or something so they I will for sure get them set in the proper depth?

    Thanks for any words of wisdom.
  13. Elvis70

    Elvis70 No speed traps in the sky

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    Gabe I am 45 minutes north of 40 up 540 from Fort Smith, AR to Fayetteville, AR. Not sure when you are leaving but I will be gone some in the near future but my bro will be house sitting. I got a nice fenced back yard to camp, no extra bedroom since the baby took it. I got a nice big long leather couch too. And of course showers.

    Gonna be a long one. I did that drive a few years ago from San Francisco Bay down to 40 and all the way across to Mississippi just out side Memphis in an 83 Porsche 944. Great car to do it in but no cruise control sucked a bit. Had my little faithful dog in the passenger seat. I stopped in Flagstaff, and then New Mexico, and then in Oklahoma, and then to my destination.

    Your ass will hurt, but it will be a hell of a story about the one time........
  14. plugeye

    plugeye mc caregiver

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    the top bearing comes right out. the races are easy, tap around each races' circumference to drive out from the opposite side of the neck with a drift. the lower bearing is a little trickier. a good method is to use a dremel with a cutoff wheel to slice a deep notch through the bearing without damage to the stem. then use a chisel to split the bearing cage to remove from the stem. pull off the old seal. install new seal & pack both bearings with grease. put the lower bearing in your freezer for an hour. it should slip right onto the stem, tap it down until its seated on the seal like the original was. tap in the new races & reassemble. good luck, its fun.
  15. plugeye

    plugeye mc caregiver

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    when you tap in the bearing use a short length of pvc that will drive the bearing center in. tap in the races with a brass or wood drift until they seat on the lip in the neck.
  16. Yokomo

    Yokomo Dirt Rider

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    Thanks for the link basketcase!

    I might be selling my:
    purple handguards
    stock tank
    rear pannier racks
    5 gallon bucket made into a windscreen :lol3
    LMK
  17. web037

    web037 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 19, 2008
    Oddometer:
    165
    Location:
    Sierra foothills
    I have noticed that anytime I drop my DR on it's right side it runs like crap for 10 minutes or so, won't idle, runs rough etc. If I drop it on the left it is fine. Obviously the best solution to the problem is not to drop it but some times I like to push my skills a little and it happens. My theory on the problem is that the tank vent to the charcoal canister (California bike) is on the right side and the cutoff valve is either not working correctly or lets enough raw fuel into the canister to make it run rich for a while.

    Short of a complete canisterectomy is there anything I can do to solve this? I was considering putting a valve in the hose going to the canister so I could vent the tank to atmosphere when riding offroad and back to the canister the rest of the time. Technically it is illegal to intentionally allow gasoline to evaporate in California but here is what I think of that.:kat
  18. dylandr

    dylandr Been here awhile

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    Jan 5, 2009
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    South Africa
    No worries.
    Last night I converted back to stock (temporary) I can't remember what clip the needle clip was on when I got it. I, this morning took it to work and tried hammering it on a few straights! The acceleration is smooth and the power is there.... but the top end still sucks. The needle is out 2 1/4 turns out.
    Carb guru's? Advice? Spoke to the okes at loxons suzuki and they are trying to source a DJ kit for me... until then....

    Cheers
    Dyl:thumb
  19. TrophyHunter

    TrophyHunter Long timer

    Joined:
    Aug 30, 2009
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    2,500
    Location:
    San Diego
    I will start this by saying if I knew it was only $100 to have a professional at Race Tech or Procycle rebuild a shock, I would've seriously entertained that. I'm glad I didn't. I learned a lot about hydraulics and patience.

    To start with, I purchased a Shock Solution Kit from Procycle after discussing my (lack of) riding style and the fact my height was too short for my weight. After the last ride where I pushed the DR hard and bottomed out the rear (hearing "kachunk" yelled on the radio from a rider behind me) about 10 times....it was time for some upgrades. The DR is well known for being softly sprung, pretty much set up for a 170 pounder with a mild riding style.

    The Race Tech instructions along with the Procycle Installation Guide helped as I muddled along. Both Procycle and Race Tech support lines were very willing to help and had top knotch customer service.

    After watching the hour long video included with the Gold Valve, I got started.

    Stock shock removed
    [​IMG]

    Leaving an empty center section after taking out the airbox, carb intake, etc.
    [​IMG]

    Took a variety of photos to document the order of the parts as they were removed.
    [​IMG]

    After bleeding off the 175 PSI of nitrogen from the bladder, I made a special tool called for by Race Tech. Didn't price theirs, but mine was in a bucket in my garage.
    [​IMG]

    After removing the bladder and popping the cap off of the main shock tube, I used the tool to depress the seal head into the tube far enough to access the clip ring.
    [​IMG]

    Note: I should have cut the PVC in half as to not have so much length pushing into the tube - made it hard to remove the tool to access the snap ring. I cut it - now I have two!

    The nitro bladder, shaft with stock valve, seal head, etc & the body.
    [​IMG]

    IMPORTANT: Race Tech warns (and for good reason) about taking the nut off of the shaft. It has internal and external peening (smashed onto the shaft) and will not come off without breaking something unless you follow specific steps to properly grind off the peening. With the DR it's not as critical because there isn't an adjustable rebound valve in the center of the shaft. Mess up this step and buy a new center shaft. I'd vote for if you have adjustable rebound damping on your shock, have a pro grind the nut because the internal peening holds the damper valve in the shaft.

    Sooooooooooooooooo, my new center shaft arrived.... kidding. I did mess it up a little but was able to recover with a 12mm x 1.75 die. Race Tech provides you with a replacement nut for either a 1.25 or 1.50 pitch, but not the 1.75. Procycle said they've never heard of a 1.75 being on there but I took the nut to two hardware stores to check the pitch prior to buying a die and replacement nut.

    Put the guts on a bolt in the order removed so I could keep everything straight.
    [​IMG]

    Race Tech provides you with a one time access code to their valving computer online. Go to their site, enter bike, slow fat old guy (in my case) and it spits out the valve stacks for High/Low Speed Compression and Rebound damping. Also provides spring rate, compression adjustment and fork set up in case you buy their emulators.

    Broke out the caliper and bought a digital micrometer and got to work on the valve shims. Race Tech provides you with some popular stacks pre-bagged. No such luck. Dump 'em out and start measuring.

    Organized the shims by outside diameter and thickness and got the stacking order from the recommended settings.
    [​IMG]

    Built my stacks for the Gold Valve and drilled the required 5/64" hole in the valve per instructions.
    [​IMG]

    Intructions say to "surface" the base washer using 320 grit sandpaper and a piece of plate glass (since it's flat). Home depot has small panes pre-packaged for under $2.
    [​IMG]

    After filling the bladder tube with SHOCK FLUID, I pushed the bladder in and installed the snap ring. Fluid is supposed to spill over to prevent air from getting in, hence the cat litter box. Zap it with 40 PSI to seat the bladder and fill the main tube. The newly built main shaft with shim stacks and Gold Valve are cycled to get air bubbles out. Special tool used again to push seal head down as you release the bladder pressure. Snap ring, zap the bladder with 20 PSI to seat the seal head and reassemble the remaining parts.
    [​IMG]

    Brent (BC330) at MotoWorld got me right in for a recharge on the nitro and back in the bike it went. Lubed all the pivot points and cleaned everything I could access prior to install.
    [​IMG]

    If your just changing the fluid, which IS a maintenance item, this is a pretty simple task. My shock fluid was milky and a bit foamy (probably from all of the water crossings) so it was good I took this on.

    CAUTIONS: Race Tech tells you in the instructions to buy some RED loctite for the nut re-install. They also mention lubing the seal head and shaft as you install new pieces. Shock fluid in the kit is RED and provides a ready lube. Even though RT tells you to go buy some loctite, they actually provide a small vial (unmarked) with the kit...see where this is going? DO NOT use their little red vial of possible shock fluid to lube anything.

    As I slid the seal head (lubed - I thought) onto the shaft, followed by the base washer and shims, valve, etc......my fingers were getting sticky. [​IMG] 3, 2, 1....S$%#.......ripped everything apart and soaked in Kerosene, brushed, rinsed, dried, (properly) lubed and re-assembled.

    A great learning experience with some tech support help and BC330 comin' thru in the end. <!--IBF.ATTACHMENT_77205-->
  20. jenx

    jenx misadventurer

    Joined:
    Oct 7, 2007
    Oddometer:
    553
    Location:
    Johannesburg, South Africa
    Let me know how the dj works! I'd take my plug spanner along and pull one plug after a full on run and cut-out. That'll tell you whether you need to drop the needle.