the DR650 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.

  1. FloridaSteve

    FloridaSteve Long timer

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    Thanks Much. They came with the bike and I suspect that they are replacements as the bike is a bit of a mutt. It's a 2000 that's been around the block a bit. I know that you can buy them new at Procycle. http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html and they are also available brand new from Suzuki on sites like www.Bikebandit.com

    On the other hand if you want to paint yours you can use a rattlecan paint specifically made for plastic. I think Duplicolor makes a good one but be sure if you do, there's no turning back once you paint plastic. Good Luck
  2. Yokomo

    Yokomo Dirt Rider

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    I just went and looked at the cap of my IMS tank and it's the tophat design and it's lost some pieces.

    If I call IMS will they send me a new cap?
    Thanks!
  3. FloridaSteve

    FloridaSteve Long timer

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    About the degraded IMS gas cap gaskets. Mine went to crap like most of them tend to do and during the time I was using my IMS tank I replaced it with a nice (made for modern gas) O-ring gasket that is made for an Kawasaki and fit the cap and sealed it perfectly.

    Go HERE for the Kawasaki Triple Fuel Cap Gasket that they show. It's $12 and I'll vouch for the vendor as I've done a LOT of business with him. The gasket works great and did not leak a drop. Make sure you have a good vent tube hose routed down the triple tree collar and you're all set. hope this helps someone out.

    Full link to their page. http://www.hvccycle.com/vintagekaw.htm

    Sorry links fixed now
  4. basketcase

    basketcase lifelong reject fixer

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    RE, the OEM 15-t counter-sprocket --

    Thank you! :thumb
  5. Adv Grifter

    Adv Grifter on the road o'dreams

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    You might have the Sport version of the Cortech bags. The attachment points are not well positioned on my touring Cortech bags either. I sewed in some loops and bungee to the Happy Trails racks. (you can't see them in the pic but they are there) In a crash, nothing is really going to hold for sure. They come on and off the bike pretty quick.

    I've had a few minor get offs (on dirt) and the bags actually stayed put. :eek1

    You just have to sit there and figure the best way to keep them secure. But very few bags really are 100% secure in a crash. I wouldn't even try.

    In Baja I had those same bags on my XR250 (now sold) and the Cortechs got into the rear tire. (bad Mickey Mouse mounting system I set up) Tore them up pretty good. Took them to a shoe repair guy in La Paz and for about $5 he totally rebuilt the torn up sections.

    I have two other sets of soft bags, to me they are all expendable. On rough trips they don't last ... except perhaps the new Wolfman ones. I find bags cheap all the time on Craig's list, like $50 or less.
  6. TrophyHunter

    TrophyHunter Long timer

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    This thread is invaluable when tackling a project.

    Distech's install worked perfectly. Thx for that! http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=415263&page=7&highlight=distechs+dr650+rebuild Read his thread first as mine is just some personalized additions to Distech's outstanding post.

    Definitely follow his advice on the homebuilt tool measuring 30mm. I took a caliper and wandered to several stores and came home with the 28.?mm and it turned in the tube. Find a good hardware store and get the right one to start. I tightened the bundle but it turned during heavy hammering (to get the allen head loose). I ended up drilling at a 45 degree into the nut, thru the bolt & inserting a screw in the hole to "pin" the two together.

    Here's the stock spacer, spring & bottom washer with inside tube dropped down.
    [​IMG]

    Frontless DR
    [​IMG]

    Measuring the compression relief holes, 20mm center to center.
    [​IMG]

    Build a fluid measuring device that suits you. I'm pretty sure I'm a decendent from the Murphy clan so I built one that wouldn't allow me to drop it in while measuring. It also hung in the center of the tube and was easy to see when it contacted the fluid.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    After pouring the recommended 14 ounces of fluid in and cycling the fork to get air out of it (easier with the emulator out), I tried dropping the unit in the tube. It got crossed up so I hung it from a magnetic tool and lowered it into the drink.
    [​IMG]

    Use the spring to hold the emulator in place and pull the magnet off of it.
    [​IMG]

    If you have a mechanical tool grabber, it's probably easier. I didn't.

    Get the emulator to seat in the tube, remove the spring and complete the fluid pour.

    In cutting my new spacer, the instructions said to draw a line all the way around to keep the cut even. This was my way of doing that. Set the caliper and work your way around the tube.
    [​IMG]

    Cut, debur & final surface on my $2 Home Depot glass with 320 grit.
    [​IMG]

    Got this cool (at least I think it is) tool from Motion Pro http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0412
    It's blue, anodized aluminum & I need it.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    It worked as advertised and made the fork alignment "bounceless" for a no-binding result.

    Got the forkskins installed, lubed everything and torqued everything according to the manual. Black fork boots on the way to Yokomo.
    [​IMG]


    It was sure nice getting the "solution kit" from Procycle as everything I needed was included. Keep in mind I got heavier springs which are shorter than the stock ones so I set the (now too short) stock spacers aside & used the provided (kit) spacer material. My son-in-law did emulators also but with the stock springs. He cut the stock spacer (I'd recommend just getting some PVC ) which was time consuming.
  7. Adv Grifter

    Adv Grifter on the road o'dreams

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  8. Ralph64

    Ralph64 Adventurer

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    I agree. This distance I would spread over 3 weeks otherwise 8-9 hours/day average for two weeks. Too much to see anything except highway, fuel stops and camping grounds.
  9. eakins

    eakins Butler Maps

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    i understand the concept of that fork aligner, but please explain some more how you adjust on the dr forks that are not aligned.

  10. NordieBoy

    NordieBoy Armature speller

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    When you do up the 4 pinch-bolts on the fork leg lower you can move the leg in or out quite a bit.
  11. Off Limits

    Off Limits Banned

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    d-fuzz, are you going to make a report?
  12. TrophyHunter

    TrophyHunter Long timer

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    Bill - NordieBoy is right, there can be a lot of movement at the pinch bolts. If you're referring to the different diameter tubes ( inner/outer ), the V in the tool accounts for that.

    The description on the tool link is helpful but basically the forks are very fixed at the base of the triple clamp so set the distance there using by loosening the screws, finding the fit & tighten it up. It makes a defiinite rocking motion on the tubes if it's not aligned properly. The cut on the V allows the transfer to the larger outer tube with the same result.

    I pulled the bottom of the forks in and snugged the pinch bolts just for a test...definite rocking on the tool. I was right there with ya when I looked at it....but it works very well.
  13. Rusty Rocket

    Rusty Rocket Life behind "Bars"

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    I have the Kientech option. No trouble. The cable was a problem on my stock set up so it's gone now. You only use the choke once a day, so it really is bad having it on the carb.
  14. basketcase

    basketcase lifelong reject fixer

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    I also have the Kientech pull knob type.

    My 1st start of the morning warm up ritual is to start the bike and then do my final suit-up chores. So I can lean over and see the knob to pull it rather than sit on the bike feeling around -- and with my left hand, to boot.

    Then by the time I have finished zipping up, and putting on my helmet, glasses, and gloves the bike is warm enough to kill the choke. After that, for the rest of the day I can hop on the bike and just touch the button and go.

    Rather than remove the hand-grip to get to the OEM choke lever and cable I simply wrapped the end of the cable with duct tape and zip-tied it to the frame where it would not interfere with anything. When the winter time gets here again I may juimp the hoops of removing the grip and actually removing the lever. In the meanwhile, the carb does not know the difference and the neutered choke cable has not uttered a complaint... :lol3
  15. eakins

    eakins Butler Maps

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    i get the v shape (for different tubes) and width adjust, that obvious.

    maybe i'm having a blonde moment...
    but the dr gets the wheel axel bolt threaded through to the left leg and torqued properly. then the clamp plate (on the right leg) and 4 bolts hold the that shaft/wheel in place, correct?

    so now are you saying there is wiggle room to move that lower mount spot so it is closer to the wheel (thus bringing in the lower legs) or away from the wheel (thus moving the lower legs apart)? what about proper side preload against the speedo unit (& thus wheel & bearing)???

    can you move the lower leg out (if needed to align) and leave a gap between the lower leg & the speedo??? that makes zero sense from a structural/strength sense OR are you talking about twisting the lower legs for alignment? i thought the theory behind cycling the forks before torquing the 4 lower pinch bolts, enable the the shape of the lower fork assy to sit properly on the axel bolt.

    am i just missing that the axel does all the proper bearing preload when torqued down and also hold the speedo in place??? and the right side clamp is just there to hold the leg in place and can be clamped in various spots along the axel???



  16. Rusty Rocket

    Rusty Rocket Life behind "Bars"

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    Correct. After you tighten the axle, you should agressively bounce the front suspension up and down so the "loose" leg finds it's proper alignment on the axle. Then tighten the 4 studs. The measuring tool allows you to move it by hand while on a stand to measure at the top and bottom to see that everything is straight, then tighten the 4 nuts.

    I'll keep doing it the old way.
  17. FloridaSteve

    FloridaSteve Long timer

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    Procycle remote is the way to go if you ever plan on an oversized tank. Access to a plunger/carb becomes difficult with the large tank hanging over. I use it and it's perfect.
  18. D-Fuzz

    D-Fuzz Been here awhile

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    I agree but the demands of my job only allow for 2 weeks off. The first 3 days and the last 3 days will be long covering about 60% of the entire trip. Once we get to the Yukon, we will only be doing about 400-500km / day, so there will be a bit more time to smell the flowers. I have been through Northern Alberta/BC before so there isn't much new there for me to see. As long as the weather is good, I think it will be fine. If it starts raining though, I will just have to cut things a bit short in order to keep it to 2 weeks.
  19. scottbed

    scottbed Been here awhile

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    Finally someone that has a job on this forum!!! It seems like almost everyone is taking off for months at a time and it can feel pretty sucky when I can't even take off for 4 hours due to family and work demands.
  20. dentedvw

    dentedvw Where did I put that

    Joined:
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    Still considering a used DR650.
    What are the odds that my DRZ400 supermoto wheels will fit the DR650? FWIW, they are not OEM units.
    Bearings different? Spacers different?

    Thanks in advance, I still cannot afford a proper sport tour bike, and trying to find a compromise.