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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.
Pirelli Scorpion mt90 st (in stock sizes) are sweet for carving twisties from what I hear.
Cheng Shin Barracudas, my friend. The poor man's supermoto tires.
BT45s should work too, but I'm running the Barracudas right now, and they stick really well, especially for a total price of like $80 for the pair.
Does anyone sell a gripper seat cover? Or any aftermarket seat cover.
Those are just what I have sitting in the basement.
As soon as the KLR's are gone, the DR will take up residence.
Metszler tourances seem to stick pretty well and last a long time, i was out on a 200 mile pavement ride last sunday with a mettzsler Karoo on the front and for a tire that looks like a knobby it worked really good, some howling but not too bad, GP110 on the back seems o-k for this kind of thing. DR's handle great on pavement, stable and nice tall top gear, easy to ziiiiip around tight corners without that nasty tendency to gas it up to 130 down the straightaways.
Thanks Rockt! I would have to say that there are a lot of sweet DR's that would give mine a run for the money. Here are some recent pix:
Jesse's alum chain guide.
magnetic drain plug, good, cheap peace of mind.
Eibach rear spring.
Signaldynamics voltage monitor, good for watching that load when the grips are on high!
Outwear fork tube covers, cf for wraps and Advanced concepts case cover.
The actual DR .
See? I told'ya.
I have a stupid question. What does an magnetic oil plug do? I assume that it keeps the metal shavings in the bottom stuck to the plug.
Thats right... also allows you to panic about about much metal is floating around in your engine
Now that you have all those neat trick parts on there....go get it dirty!!!
The Zoooki ain't no Harley!!!
Be careful with that plastic washer. Heat, plastic, and compression, do not make good long term partners. A copper or aluminum washer won't creep over time and will keep the plug from loosening between oil changes.
What slip-on are you running? How loud is it?
Did you install front springs as well?
OK, I did it. Six bikes have now become seven and the latest beast in the herd is a new, black DR650.
Note to self: dirt-bikes do NOT brake anything like BMW touring bikes on the asphalt.
My rather ample proportions tell me I need:
The dealer has not yet located my owner's manual either so the break-in technique I am using may not be the one advocated by the factory.
All comments, suggestions and opinions are encouraged; but,will be welcomed with generous skepticism!
eatin' dust in AZ.
Basically, just ride it easy for the first 600 miles, dump the oil and filter, check the valves.
Most of us use the Eibach springs from JESSE, but they are not progressive. Once you get rid of the excessive stock front-end dive, the brake are much more confidence inspiring. As for taller bars, I use Pro-Taper SE KX-HI bars. You may prefer others (or thicker bars), but these 7/8" bars are a big, cheap, easy improvement.
Anakees stuck well on my DL, Tourance, too! Anakee front and tourance rear if ya' wanna get fancy (that was my favorite tire set up for that bike on road). Lotsa guys run that combo on the DL's.
Anybody use CR10EK dual-electrode plugs?
Check where the clutch cable contacts the VIN sitcker.
Mine has worn off a small area and one of the numbers.
This may have happened because of relocating controls when I went to aftermarket bars, dunno.
I've now padded the cable and will watch to see if I need to move the clutch control a tad.
These type of connectors are available at
They refer to them as Hitachi Style Connectors.
Here is a picture of the 2-pin connector that I got in the mail today.
I just bought a 93 DR 350 kickstarter that will not start unless you pull start it . Once it warms up it starts OK but if it's cold forget it .
I've checked the carb,valves compression and spark with no success.
Anybody have a suggestion ??:huh