Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.
The one I checked had 2 loose philips screws...
Is the NSU the Neutral Sensor Unit? I think I'm getting the fact that the screws (allen or phillips) loosen up and this sensor falls off causing a nightmare. Does it just need some blue loctite and a good tightening or does it need its bolts changed also?
Next week I'm picking up a 2006, so I'm currently in the planning stages of getting it dirt worthy and reliable. Any other advice in this regard is highly appreciated.
And to think I use to think the KTM 690 thread was long!! So with that said, I'm sorry in advance for asking all these newbie DR questions .........
i am 100% positive no on else has been into that clutch, still had all the blue paint on the bolts.
my bolts were nice and snug but loctited them anyway.
this is an aussie bike, i am second owner, the first owner used it to learn on, when he got his full license he "upgraded" to a cb 1300 or something like that.
His loss my gain.
Absolutely lovin the dr, what a weapon, the farkeling has begun!
Hi guys! I want to put 18 inch wheels on the back for winter driving, we have a large selection of tires of this diameter. Unfortunately we have hard to find a wheel assembly at a low price. Suitability for the DR wheels from other bikes?
after you sell or swap, would you mind writing up a comparison?
If you remove the stock screws,use contact cleaner to make sure there is no oil residue on the screw threads and those in the engine case they go in to blue loctite will be fine.
The basic problem with the GPS body is it has no steel inner sleeves the thickness of the wings the screws go through.
Sleeves would stop any compression of the plastic stopping the problem.
Locking agent would guarantee it.
I posted this as a WTB in flea market, but this is a better audience. I'm looking to buy a set of Intiminators, new or used. Thanks!
Find a used DR350 rear wheel. All you will need is a DR650 brake rotor. That is what I use for my dirt set up. I paid $400 for a rear 18" with a new D606, and a 21" front with a new D606. Good luck.
Are the DR350/250 front wheels the same as a 650 wheel also?
he'll need a sumo'd DR to make a proper comparison.
mine is not for sale however....
Nope. Nothing else shares the DR650 front hub.
Mr Procycle:<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
Is the DR400 rear license plate bracket and turn signals a fit for the DR650? Looks like the DR400 kit includes smaller turn signals than factory?<o></o>
No problem. I had a DR650 before so I could start that comparison any time really
Im taking the 400 to Calico ghost town for an overnight camp/dirt adventure w/ friends this 15th. After I get a good dirt outing I'll write something up.
My previous DR love.....
I agree with Travel Guy. But it really depends on your travel style, your pace and energy level. IMHO, it takes more energy and effort to camp everyday. Cooking adds more effort/time, plus packing stove, fuel and food to cook. Riding days end up being shorter and morning take off times end up being later when camping/cooking. Setting up camp in the dark and rain not much fun.
But plenty do camping and love it ... and just build it in to the schedule. If you read reports over on Horizon's Unlimited you get many more Euro camping types there.
To me, camping can isolate you from local people and slows your integration of culture and language. Not camping means more time spent in towns, eating in restaurants. Good and bad aspects to this. Many aren't doing the ride to "integrate" with local culture, and just yell louder in English to be understood. For them, it's all about them and furthering their Adventure career (film, book, website) ... and collecting stickers on the panniers and stamps in passport are of paramount importance. These are the "achievers".
Parts of Mexico are good camping ... but use caution in picking your spot. Beaches are NOT the best idea unless an organized pay site. Robberies are common.
Most of Cent. America is not camping friendly. Too dense, too many people, too many villages. Yes, it can be done ... you'll need to look around.
The best camping would be in Southern Chile and Argentina. I camped there in the 70's ... but had sent home my sleeping bag/gear long before that. (I borrowed camping gear in Argentina)
You can check out several great ride reports from travelers with differing ideas regards camping. Check out:
Jammin Jay (Camper)
Jay did a combo of Couch Surfing and Camping. Check out Jay's DR650 to see a very overloaded bike ... a lot of this is camping/cooking gear and food ... but he still made it over the Salar de Uyuni.
Misery Goat (some camping)
Mark mostly stays in Hotels but camps on occasion when stuck up in the Andes.
Crashmaster (some camping) EDIT .... Correction
From his ride report I thought he never camped ... but he says he did. Can't recall even one pic of his campsite or tent set up. Vince really knows how to travel light. Learn from him. Read his report. It's awesome.
Not camping means your planning has to be well worked out and should include a bail out plan, a place you can find a bed/food/shelter. In remote areas this can be dicey. Always carry enough water/snacks to survive a couple days with no food available.
Expect to eat what is available: I stayed with local families once in a while and was put to work. Once I was charged to grab (from cage), kill, clean and cook Qui in Ecuador and Peru'. Goat head soup was another local favorite, complete with eyeballs and jaw bone. Add to this various intestinal treats, Feet and other unmentionable innards. I ate it all ... and more. I nearly died of flu and dysentery on a couple occasions.
Some camp and cook just for this reason: local food will sometimes make you sick until your acclimated ... or not.
Not camping means better research and better local knowledge must be had. In my seven years in Latin America (on and off bikes) I learned to talk to locals for best and current info ... other travelers are a great source too of course.
Now, with the internet this is made easier ... and more reliable. I took extensive notes on everything I learned from other travelers along the way. But as always: CONSIDER THE SOURCE. Not everyone is in their right mind.
It's amazing how a little Yamaha will make the Suzuki all that much better
Hey you guys! I'm on a 3 day adventure over here in Oregon. So I just replaced all wheel bearings Cush bearing and reassembled. 100 miles into this and I had to adjust the chain from 3.2 to the 4.5 mark. Does that sound right? Chain looks good sprockets look good, chain is lubed and in good shape. Wtf it seems like too much. Ideas. Oh yah new cush rubber too
A flasher relay will fix the high-speed blink rate. Any generic 2-pin electronic flasher relay can be made to work with the DR. The factory relay is located under the seat near the battery box.
You'll need a diode kit to cure the 4-way flasher syndrome. The problem is that the indicator light on the dash is wired to two positive leads - one from the left signal and one from the right. One of these will fix you right up. You wire the two 'Y' ends of the diode kit to the two positive signal leads, the joined end of the Y to one of the indicator bulb leads, and then pick up a ground from somewhere inside the headlight shell for the other terminal of the indicator bulb.
Or... just unplug the indicator bulb :)
Sounds like you failed to move the axle ALL THE WAY FORWARD before setting chain adjustment and tightening axle nut ... or the axle nut was not torque'd down all the way and axle slipped when power applied.
1. Loosen axle nut ... just a bit loose, don't take it off.
2. Make sure chain slack is mostly on under side of swing arm, not above. If all above, pull chain and move back a tooth on rear sprocket. Most chain slack should show on under side of swingarm.
3. set chain slack adjustment using snail adjusters. Even on both sides?
NOW ... move axle full forward until snail adjusters are tight against stop pins. Make sure they are equal on both sides and that axle is fully seated.
Snug axle nut ... spin wheel to make sure all is well. Smooth? Quiet?
A bit of brake drag is OK ... but you can spread pads to eliminate it if you'd like. (just for the "smooth" test)
Torque axle nut to some unGodly value (Gut undt tight) Spin wheel again.
This should hold it ... and chain slack should remain constant for thousands of miles.
Only other thought is that if a new bearing was not installed correctly and not fully seated ... it may have collapsed. Seems unlikely. Good luck!