Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.
Perfect. Gonna get it done tonight. Thanks John
Thanks for the tutorial!
I've replaced my Cush rubbers twice. Both times it makes getting the Hubb and sprocket into the wheel tougher ... which makes getting wheel on harder. I used a mallet to "persuade" it in a bit so it would "seat" all the way. Over time it will resist less and seat better.
But I've found the Cush Drive rubbers seem to wear out in 15 to 20K miles.
It helps to spray the rubbers with something like Aerospace 303 to make everything slide together easier.
Last time I changed the oil on my 2002 DR650 with ~8000 miles, I installed a magnetic oil drain plug. Today, I found a small, cylindrical steel pin stuck to the magnet. I know there's a spring and some kind of pin behind the NSU (which I haven't messed with so far), but I'm not sure that this thing I found is from behind the NSU. It is 8mm long, and 5mm in diameter (measuring with a ruler).
I dug around in my oil drain pan and found a small lock washer, too. Its inner diameter appears to be 7mm. This could have come from any of 4 or 5 other vehicles over the course of time, but I thought I'd mention it in case anyone recognizes it as coming from inside a DR.
The neutral light has been working fine.
I searched around and couldn't find the photos I know I've seen of what others have found stuck to their magnetic drain plugs. An exploded diagram I found (http://www.imagessite.com/OEM_Images/Suzuki_db_images/96DR650SE18.gif) seems to show that the NSU pin is pointed to help it engage the spring (the one I found is not pointed or tapered). Some other parts on the diagram (#s 10 and 22) look a little bit like what I found. Can anyone tell me for sure where this little pin came from?
looks like the cam pin or a dislodged pin from a previous magnetic plug.
Thanks for the reply.
I'm pretty sure the previous plug was the stock, non-magnetic one. Also, this pin isn't magnetic. If it's a cam pin, does that mean I'm looking at tearing down the top end?
The bike has been running fine. Could it run if a cam pin came out? I don't have a good idea of what everything is in the deep innards, never having had to deal with a rebuild or any really major overhauling.
Thanks to Krusty's DR650 Index, Topic #13:
I found this pic of the NSU screws, pin and spring here, post 11:
I don't recognize either of the pieces in your photo.
Loosely hitting the swing arm is what I have been shooting for and it seems to be working pretty good. Chain and sprockets seem to be holding up pretty good. In my younger days I have ruined a new chain pretty quick tightening it up to much.
Help! My DR ran perfect with a Supertrapp pipe, K&N, air box side removed and Dynojet kit. Then like someone on the DR forum says, fix it until it's broke, I put a Procycle kit in it, did the CO & UT part of the TAT - it ran a little rough occasionally but overall did great - especially considering the elevation changes. I richened it back up for the low elevation here in Fayetteville, NC, HOWEVER, it was missing or hesitating at around 60 to 70 mph. But it wouldn't start until I'd run at least 15 miles and the DR was completely warmed up. I've tried changing jet sizes, needle position and the slow speed mixture position, then slowly changed everything back to the way it was before I went to the Procycle jet kit. The problem is very consistent - doesn't do it until completely warm, in the lower mid range of throttle opening, and no adjustments seem to make any difference. While it's missing/hesitating I can roll on the throttle and it accelerates perfectly. Has anyone had this particular problem??? Any ideas??? Thanks!
I have no idea what those parts could be ... just be thankful you found them before they got stuck in a trans gear or something :eek1
One thought I had was that the pin might be a locator pin on the clutch cover case. Has your clutch side case been off before? When I took mine off ... a pin fell off from somewhere ...??? (long time ago) I think it was a locator pin, but not sure, but somewhere there is a pin that can fall off. Maybe yours was dislodged and fell inside?
Good luck with the diagnosis. More experienced DR mechanics who've been inside may have some better ideas.
ER70S-2, thanks for the link to the index; that should be helpful in the future. Also, thanks for finding that photo of the NSU parts.
I'd almost be relieved if what I had found was from the NSU, because then I would know what I'm looking at. As it is, I'm unsure of how to proceed. This mystery piece doesn't seem to have come from the magnetic drain plug itself, since its diameter is a little smaller than the magnet in the plug, and it is not magnetic (thanks for the idea, Stringer99!).
Anybody have an idea what this little cylinder might be?
Sorry I didn't but I used http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=15638613&postcount=47274 which was excellent.
I bought 2 x 15mm x 5mm x 0.8mm pitch allens and they fitted perfectly.
I was lucky and didn't break the gasket so I have one spare if needed in the future.
Someone posted that you could get away without taking the clutch basket apart http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=15636057&postcount=47251 which would have made the task easier but as I didn't have the right angle screw driver I did the whole basket removal step.
That being said I think I could have used the right size screwdriver at an angle to start the screw under the basket and then worked it out by hand ( remembering to do one side at a time ) and then with a short reach allen key I could have put it all back together with less effort.
Adv Grifter, thanks for the input. Do you remember if the pin that fell out of your bike looked like the one I found? I take it you didn't find where it came from, but it didn't interfere with your bike's subsequent operation?
I don't think the clutch side cover has ever been off on my bike. The PO hadn't done anything to it but change the gearing and add bark-busters. It only had 2250 miles on it. I am definitely thankful that the magnet caught this little piece before it caused a catastrophe. I encourage anyone who doesn't have a magnetic drain plug to get one.
Looking at my workshop manual it may be the gear shift pawl pin ( PIN, SHIFT POLE (5X8) 09261-05003 )..... there are also the same sort of pins in the cam driven gear ( both of these have springs behind them ). May also be .PIN, IDLE GEAR NO.2 (L:27) 09202-10006.
That ping in the cover looks like it is hollow from the parts fiche.
That's a pretty good link and I got the pic from there.
mx_rob: (about interfering with operation)
"One point though on the screw just gently falling out and settling on the bottom. The hurricane turbulence of the clutch basket and gears in the oil can easily sweep the screw up into places that would be a major bummer for it/them to be."
The top left locating pin stayed in the clutch cover.
So the locator pin is hollow - so I think it must be one of the others.
Thanks for the heads up! I ordered, it arrived yesterday, I installed it today.
It kicks butt! Oh wait, the stock seat kicked my butt.
It's amazing that a similar sized chunk of foam can feel that much better than the stock seat. Why the heck does the bike come with such a crappy seat?
Anyways... 2 thumbs up for the Seat Concepts kit. I only rode around for an hour and a half or so but it was enough to note a lack of pain in the posterior. I look forward to an all day test soon.
Good point. I did this too long ago to remember, but I see it's hollow so can't be the pin in question. Mine fell out ... I've forgotten from where, but at the time I somehow figured out where it went and put it back. No problems.
This kind of stuff is a scary nightmare. Magnetic Drain plug a good idea ... but the last two I had were real POS and STRIPPED out easily. Real junk and almost caused a disaster. (This on my XR250 and DL1000 V-Strom)
Who makes a QUALITY MAGNETIC PLUG?
That's kind of what I do, too. Then I check the top sweep of the chain against the tab on the plastic chain buffer. When the chain seems about right on the bottom, I can lift the top run just barely above the rear corner of the tab.
That's a good question. I ordered one and started to put it in but quickly took it back out. It is painted and after about the first 2 turns in it got *very tight*. I don't know if the theads were not right or if the paint made it so tight. Anyway, I took it back out and put my stock plug back in. I'm not going to mess around and screw up the threaded hole in the case.