the DR650 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.

  1. poppawheelie

    poppawheelie Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jul 16, 2003
    Oddometer:
    610
    Location:
    Central Pennsylvania
    Ah, good idea! I'll remember that. I knew there had to be a better way than Super Glue (can't remove).
  2. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2009
    Oddometer:
    7,976
    Location:
    SE Denver-ish
    205'd by scodill. Just drill two holes and carry zip ties. :beer

    A tapered nipple on super slippery plastic. :scratch I'd carry a short piece of hose (long enough to go down the steering head. The hose in the pic is 1/2" O.D. and fits) and 3 zip ties, in case the Super Glue lets loose on a ride. Everybody carries zip ties, right? :1drink

    Drill holes in opposing knobs on the cap (blue arrow), large enough for zip ties (ignore the red notes on this pic that I stole on the internet). Drill 'em before ya need 'em. My zip ties are 3/16". The little one on top didn't feel very secure: 1/10"

    [​IMG]

    Crude mock-up. However, it would get you home without a gas bath. Safety wire would be less 'rednek', but shorter lived.

    [​IMG]

    Thanks Lex, the learning never stops. The screen shot is a great help. :beer
  3. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2009
    Oddometer:
    7,976
    Location:
    SE Denver-ish
    Damn, I would have lost a lot of money on that bet, ethanol or not. :huh
  4. eakins

    eakins Butler Maps

    Joined:
    May 29, 2002
    Oddometer:
    19,747
    Location:
    Fort Collins, Colorado
    heads up to ebay bbq rack users w/ pelicans also bolted to it.

    repair my ebay bbq rack supports today. the top tube snapped because i had a pelican 1520 bolted to the top and it was overweight for the stainless bolts i used on the forward mount holes. these bolts snapped and then leverage down to the rear and then the top tubes of supports took the weight and then snapped. only thing left holding the rack was the center fender bolt. :eek1

    had a guy reweld the top tubes and added this support brace w/ some curved bar he had. it's now stronger than new and i'm using instead grade 10.9 button nose bolts to through bolt to the supports. gotta watch how much weight i put in my pelican but i know the whole thing will be alot stronger now.

    [​IMG]
  5. Adv Grifter

    Adv Grifter on the road o'dreams

    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2010
    Oddometer:
    6,128
    Location:
    Passing ADV Stalkers in California
    Hmmm ... Super Glue eh! :lol3 Well mine was well glued with Super Glue ...
    it's gone now! :cry Since then the stock IMS inner rubber dam began to fall apart, I've since gone to locking cap with built in venting.

    Keep an eye on it ... Super Glue won't last. I reason mine got lost was I would bump it getting on or off bike. A few too many tweaks and the Super Glue cracks ... bye bye $10 vent!
  6. shu

    shu ...

    Joined:
    Feb 23, 2010
    Oddometer:
    1,092
    Location:
    Colorado
    Did a bunch of stuff on the DR this week, getting ready for summer riding. New plugs, air cleaner, fuel filter, fork oil. I checked the valves: all still within specs at 43,000 miles. Only one exhaust valve has needed any attention (at 4,000 miles) and it's been stable like the others since.

    I replaced my after market brake pads (EBC) because I couldn't stand them any more. I put Suzuki pads back on and the difference is very noticeable- decent stopping power again. I was trying to save money with the EBC's but for me it was a waste of money.

    Among other things I replaced my battery. The old one was fine and only 2.5 years old, but someone here once said they think of batteries as wear items (like tires) and replace them BEFORE they strand them in the backcountry. What a concept! I decided that was a pretty smart thing to do since I've got plans to ride a lot of passes this summer. (A new battery costs less than most tires.)

    Another thing I did was replace the swing arm chain buffer. Here's a pic of old and new- 43,000 miles and about 1/2 worn through.

    [​IMG]

    Most of the wear was on the inside edge where it was hard to see.

    .............shu
  7. Go Irish75

    Go Irish75 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2012
    Oddometer:
    363
    Location:
    Milwaukee, WI
    Anyone try smearing the outside of the nipple with a strong Permatex RTV, like the black or even the copper stuff, then slide on the vent tube? Super glue does like rubber to plastic applications, then throw in fuel vapors or even splash of fuel here and there and it's done.
  8. NordieBoy

    NordieBoy Armature speller

    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2006
    Oddometer:
    7,159
    Location:
    Kiwiland
    Small zip-tie at the base.
    Also I replaced the tube with soft silicon fuel tube (fluro yellow) as then it can expand with the heat instead of popping the breather off onto the ground.
  9. dljocky

    dljocky Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 6, 2008
    Oddometer:
    872
    Location:
    Yorktown, Va
    Yeah, I've lost a few of those $10 vents. Didn't want to go back to the little vent hose cap, but I've had three of those locking IMS caps from Procycle fail in two yrs. The last one failed 800 miles away from home, and it was messy. I was hoping for either a replacement cap or at least a washer.
    I'll have to try the inner tube washer.




  10. larry31

    larry31 Back Roads Explorer

    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2011
    Oddometer:
    356
    Location:
    New Hampshire
    Does any one know just what is done when "Dealer Seat Height lowering" is done?

    I've read in Suzuki DR650 listings that the dealer can lower seat to 33"

    None of sales people around here has given me a detailed description of just what is done to lower the seat.
    Is it an adjustment under the seat or are they referring to lowering links?
  11. Rugby4life

    Rugby4life Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2012
    Oddometer:
    731
    Location:
    Upstate SC (GSP area)
    FYI- Cycle Gear has them on sale for $4.99. I picked up a few as spares.
  12. jon_l

    jon_l Long timer

    Joined:
    Feb 8, 2008
    Oddometer:
    3,669
    Location:
    Collingwood, Ontario
    The Suzuki gel seat is lower than stock by ~1" without changing anything. It sucks for comfort though. And you can remove the cover and reshape the OEM seat foam to make the seat lower. It too isn't widely considered a comfortable seat.

    Lots of info here on ADVRider. Paste this into Google dr650 lowering site:www.advride.com

    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=176223
  13. acesandeights

    acesandeights Asperger

    Joined:
    Jul 2, 2008
    Oddometer:
    4,124
    Location:
    So. Oregon
    There are two settings on the rear shock, a "stock" setting and a lowered setting. They use the lower setting. There are spacers in the front forks that either ride on top of or on bottom of the springs. They move the spacer either to the top of the spring or the bottom of the spring which lowers the front by nearly 1.5 - 2.0 inches. It doesn't have anything to do with the seat; although, you can also purchase the lower seat and get 2 - 3 inches lower ride height overall when combined with the suspension lowering.
  14. jlmoulto

    jlmoulto Adventurer

    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2005
    Oddometer:
    31
    So when my bike was factory height, the bike stood almost completely upright when on the side stand.

    I had the bike lowered recently and the stand shortened. It sits exactly the same now. Does the DR normally sit bolt upright on the side stand? I can get the stand shortened, but is there anything else going on?

    btw the dampening screw is screwed all the way in (I think I am calling it the right name???) and the adjuster on the shock for the spring is screwed all the way down as well.
  15. acesandeights

    acesandeights Asperger

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    Jul 2, 2008
    Oddometer:
    4,124
    Location:
    So. Oregon
    They stand pretty much upright. Mine is lowered with the lowered stand and still sits almost upright. I think most dirt/adventure bikes do though.
  16. Motodeficient

    Motodeficient Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jul 5, 2011
    Oddometer:
    449
    Location:
    Maine
    So is there any opinions on this? Is this chain movement normal? Sure doesn't seem normal to me. What could be causing this?
  17. larry31

    larry31 Back Roads Explorer

    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2011
    Oddometer:
    356
    Location:
    New Hampshire
    Thank guys!

    Now I know. As always, this forum rocks.
  18. kbuckey

    kbuckey Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 6, 2005
    Oddometer:
    891
    Location:
    Lookout Mountain - above Golden, CO
    Changed mine at 52,xxx miles and it had just worn through.
  19. Dravintoad

    Dravintoad Toadthumpin

    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2010
    Oddometer:
    1,788
    Location:
    Fayetteville, AR
    I don't see how you could avoid having chain movement like that unless you just tightened the crap out of it. With each thump of that cylinder the chain will tighten and then loosen between. To me, it looks normal considering what is going on.
  20. KS Jay

    KS Jay Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 2, 2010
    Oddometer:
    614
    Location:
    Backwash USA
    I found using those breathers with IMS tank cap requires heating the breather hose with a heatgun (or other heat source) and then pushing on tank cap. After the hose cools it will fit very tight, I did a 150 mile ride last week on dirt roads and didn't lose the breather. I believe that's how the hose was fitted to the breather - using heat because the hose is plastic (vinyl) not rubber. Got my breather from Procycle.

    Hey! My first contribution to the DR650 forum.... I own a 2006 DR650, 2500 miles, slightly farkled. Great bike, fits right in with the country-dirt roads where I live. Pics to follow once I get a pic host account....safe riding! :D