the DR650 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.

  1. Paddle007

    Paddle007 Been here awhile

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    My two cents worth. And FWIW I am really happy my FCR

    Another thought about the BST is it richens the mixture as the needle is raised by the diaphragm. The diaphragm is responding to pressure differentials of atmospheric pressure and engine vacuum. Alot of talk to say it raises relatively slowly. It does a good job of metering the fuel for what the engine can handle at varying loads. If you twist the throttle wide open at lower rpms the BST if tuned properly, only delivers the fuel the engine can handle.

    Now the FCR. No diaphragm but the slide and needle move in perfect conjunction with your wrist. What this means is you need to be in tune with your engine at lower rpms as it does not need the slide and main jet wide open. Sometimes a gradual increase in the wrist/fun factor is more beneficial than wide open. If the back tire can spin crack it hard. If you have good traction modulate the throttle and you DR will be happier.
  2. skysailor

    skysailor Rat Rider

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    Dumb question number 506!
    I do week long flights. Have a new battery in my '02. If I haven't used it for 10 days or so, I have to boost/charge the beast. Is this normal?
    Lyle
  3. poppawheelie

    poppawheelie Been here awhile

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    No. Battery charge should be good for at least 30 days. Simplest test of alternator is to put voltmeter across battery at cold start up. Alternator should charge at least 14 volts. If it's a wet cell, are you sure the battery is full of fluid?
  4. Rumlover

    Rumlover Ed

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    Sep 2, 2010
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    707
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    Utah
    The battery on this bike has always seemed marginal to me. Even when new they don't crank very well. If mine sits for a week or more off the battery tender I am concerned. I have just resigned myself to always leaving it on a tender, even during the riding season. I have owned the bike since new, and had good quality batteries -- always been the same.

    I will probably fork over the money for one of those pricey ones that procycle offers next time, or look at modifying the battery box (if even possible) to accept a bigger battery.
    :freaky
  5. barko1

    barko1 barko1

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    Again,no. I bought a DR that had sat for nearly 4 years, with a charge that battery lasted a few weeks, of course it needed a new one. Mine will fire up after weeks of sitting. If the jetting is spot on it really doesn't crank at all, immediate firing. I usually buy the cheapest (Walmart) batteries.
  6. Rumlover

    Rumlover Ed

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    I hope your good luck continues. If you ever have a need to "crank it" for very long (or more than a couple of times) it won't last very long. It will always charge back up (if it is a good battery), but it just doesn't have much cranking power or reserve to begin with (I am referring to oem equivilant types).

    It is simply too small for the application. Suzuki would have put a bigger one in if there was room. Heck my old 250 timberwolf has a bigger battery, as do most ATVs --- why? because they have the room.
    :freaky
  7. BlueRidgeKat

    BlueRidgeKat Daily Commuter

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  8. eakins

    eakins Butler Maps

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    part of the issue is an undersized battery cable.
    tpi has a cable upgrade kit.
    http://www.tpimotorcycleparts.com/i...age=flypage.tpl&product_id=347&category_id=69
    i switched over to a ETX9 DEKA AGM battery and this battery has plenty of additional crank power on my DR. AGMs can sit for a very long time with no issues. mine sat all winter and then cranked up just fine in the spring w/o being on a battery tender.
  9. Rumlover

    Rumlover Ed

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    Good tip on the cable! Thanks

    I currently have the big crank agm (I think it is a rebranded DEKA). Still seems to crank the same to me, as did the OEM and walmart ones. Maybe I am just picky, but I am use to batteries spinning the motor briskly on my other toys -- this one just seems to be a little lazy about it. I will try the bigger cable next time.
    :freaky
  10. sandwash

    sandwash Long timer

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    I have a some 8 AWG around,anybody know what that stock battery cables are?
  11. GaThumper

    GaThumper Road Less Traveled

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    Thumpin' in North GA - headin' for the Smokys

    There are some more powerful batteries that will fit our battery box. I haven't tried one yet, but when my Deka battery needs replacing again (in a few years!) I might try one of the "bigger" batterys. Here's some info I picked up when I was looking at replacing the battery on my '09.


    I'm using a Deka battery made by East Penn Mfg. Their replacement for the standard Yuasa YTX9-BS is the ETX9.

    I haven't tried it myself but I have found out that there are three Yuasa Batteries that are almost exactly the same physical size, but more Amp Hours/Cold Cranking Amps. I was really tempted to try one in my '09 when I replaced the battery this spring, but ended up going with the Deka.

    The stock YTX9-BS-BS is 150x87x105 mm and 8AH/120CCA
    The YTX-12A-BS is an AGM battery with the same dimensions and 9.5AH/175CCA
    The YTZ 12S is an AGM battery that is 150x87x110 (5mm taller) and 11AH/210CCA
    The YTZ 14S is an AGM battery that is also 150x87x110 and packs 11.2AH and 230CCA

    I went to pick up 2 of the YTZ14S for me and my riding buddy and when tested one of the only two in stock had a bad cell. That made me uneasy, so I had him bring out a Deka ETX9 and test it and it exceeded the CCA of the YTZ14S so I bought the American made Dekka this time. (the salesperson told me Deka is known to be conservative in rating their batteries) I'd still like to do a side by side comparison of the YTZ battery and see if it spins the DR any better, but I've always had good service from the Dekka, so I'm not sure if I'll switch next time or not.

    It sure looks like the YTZ14S might be an interesting replacement for the YTX9. It;s only 3/16" taller (5mm) and with a couple of washers under the battery retainer it apparantly fits under the seat just fine. However, if you are really concerned about weight, it does weigh about 2 pounds more than the stocker.

    The only concern I might have is that there are probably more plates in the higher capacity battary in the same (relatively) size package. I've read before that this could cause a problem due to the plates being closer together.

    Having said all that, I'm REALLY satisfied with the Deka ETX9. Also made in the U.S. of A. if that matters to you.

    I can't take credit for this. Here's the article I found this info in and a big THANK YOU to "Scott", wherever you are!

    http://www.cs.clemson.edu/~westall/851/suzuki-battery.pdf

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  12. Rumlover

    Rumlover Ed

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    Thanks for sharing the info. I checked out batterymart to see what they offer for the YTZ14S. I obviously can't comment on quality compared to yuasa, but it was a pretty reasonable price, at $69.95.

    http://batteries.batterymart.com/search/index?query=ytz14s+agm
  13. BergDonk

    BergDonk Long timer

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    We often have the option, and many servos here in NSW only offer it and diesel, and maybe 98. The 98 can be problematic as it burns too slow and can foul plugs unless the engine is set up for it, or can self adapt. The ethanol blend is 91 octane with 10% ethanol, E10. Sugar from Qld to keep the farmers happy. Many/most servos in the populated areas also have 95 and 98 which have no ethanol. The 91 E10 ends up being about 95 too.

    In my cars its 91, else if only E10 is on the forecourt, then its 95. I tend to run 95 in my bikes, but if 95 isn't available, 91, then 98, and E10 is the absolute last choice if there is no other option.

    And then there is OPal out west which the DR runs on. I've yet to test it in any others in my fleet though.
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Opal_(fuel)
  14. barko1

    barko1 barko1

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    Yikes! $100+ for a motorcycle battery cable, that's 5% of what I paid for the bike. I have some left over bigger cables from another application l may try. The one time it did fail to start I just cranked hard on the connections and it fired fine.
  15. letskeepriding

    letskeepriding Letskeepriding

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    I'm sure its on here someplace but I can't find it. Do the stock springs need to be upgraded when you put a DRZ front on a DR ? I'm 175 without gear and do mostly double track & street. I just got the front end and its not on the bike so it will be easy to send it out if I should. I'd just as soon not spend the money if I don't need to

    thanks for all your knowledge
  16. Lil' Steve

    Lil' Steve PussyWagon™ Chauffer

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    Here's a few pics I have from different views. I'm using the SW-Motech Quick-Lock side carriers.


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
  17. Fire Escape

    Fire Escape Long timer

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    My '06 is still on the original battery (I think, I bought the bike slightly used from a dealer in '07). I have been waiting for it to be a problem but as of April,it could sit for a month and still start although it did turn a little slow at first. My guess would be that you have some parasitic electrical drain that is drawing down your battery. A dirty connection that allows for only a very slow drain to ground perhaps? When I last looked at a battery chart (don't recall whoose) the DR called for the same size battey as my 900cc Scrambler so it doesn't seem undersized to me but they might have been listing the biggest replacement instead of what the bikes come with. I am interested in trying one of the Lithium batteries, just hate to part with that much $$$ until I really need to. I would be inclined to blame poor connectionsand barely big enough cables for starting issues over battery size. Automotive (or bike) cables are rarely 'all they could be', on my boats I build better quality replacements as it's really hard to push start a boat. I might look into doing it for my DR as well because it shows all signs of being a "keeper".


    Bruce
  18. Fire Escape

    Fire Escape Long timer

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    I pulled the clutch cover and safety wired the NSU screws a couple of weeks ago. I had a replacement gasket (bought it over a year ago) but couldn't find it so I put the cover back with the intact original. I hadn't gotten around to taking the bike off the lift, still want to change the plugs and check the valves, once it comes down something else will take it's place and it will be 2013 with me still wanting to check the valves. I found the 'spare' gasket and my concience told me to put it on rather than chance a leak. It took over 3 hours this afternoon, with gasket remover and a razor scraper to clean off the old gasket! Several times I kicked myself for not leaving it alone but once you start .... There has to be a better way, adding 3 hours of shop time to a clutch job would not be acceptable, niether would leaving the old gasket be considered 'good form'. I had heard several people describe the 'torture' of cleaning the surfaces when replacing the CCT gasket, if they are made of the same stuff ... I now understand!

    As an interesting (to me anyway) aside, I asked a friendly parts guy to run a 'reverse check' on the DR NSU to see what other machines used the same switch, the answer is NONE! I was surprised that Suzy made a special switch just for one model, perhaps they were going to use it elsewhere but thought better of it.

    Oh well, perhaps tomorrow I will get my clutch cover back on, then I should never have to think about a NSU again.


    Bruce
  19. DockingPilot

    DockingPilot Hooked Up and Hard Over

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    Bruce
    always grease or at least oil any gasket going on to eliminate that hassel coming off. a thin film of it on both sides does the trick.

    Sent from my SCH-I800 using Tapatalk 2
  20. BlueRidgeKat

    BlueRidgeKat Daily Commuter

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    Looks like a winning set-up!! Thanks vfr870