the DR650 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.

  1. Rusty Rocket

    Rusty Rocket Life behind "Bars"

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    That's very close to stock gearing. I bet a box of donuts that it would improve with 14/42 (3:1) or 15/46 in your case.

    Inquiring minds would like to know. :deal
  2. godwinmt

    godwinmt They call me Crash

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    I just checked outside...the cord is a set of earplugs someone in the plant must've dropped :)

    The forks are off an '04 DRZ400S. The DRZ steering stem/bearings are pretty much identical to the ol' tractor's setup, so it was a matter of pull the bars off and lay them over the tank, pull the rest of the DR stuff, and then bolt up the DRZ front.

    The DRZ uses the same headlight/cowl as the DR, so you get to reuse those parts. You will need new headlight mounts sicne the forks on the DRZ are bigger. I found a box of DRZ parts on ebay that had the brackets as well as a ton of bolts and misc brackets (brake line) etc. for $25.

    You will need to modify the turn signal brackets (just take the top with the little alignment tab off) to fit, and the ignition switch needs remounted with homemade brackets as well. With some tweaking you should be able to get it mounted and still use the steering lock, but I was in a hurry with mine and it doesn't quite make it.

    Unfortunately the stock DR wheel has a 17mm axle wheras the DRZ has a 20mm axle. The other problem is that DRZ wheels are pretty damn expensive to find in decent shape. Lucky for us though the front wheel off of an RM250 also works (I snagged one from an '07 for $85). The only problem with this is that the RM wheel doesn't have a provision to drive your speedo (I'm using a vapor, so this didn't affect me). The DRZ/RM has a smaller rotor than the DR, but some late model RM's (I know 07 for sure, not sure about others) have a floating front rotor like the DR. You'll need the axle spacers from whatever model bike you decide to use the front wheels from (RM in my case).

    The brake is pretty much plug and play. Try and find the brackets to guide the line from a DRZ to make your life easier. Once the new brackets are on the line it's as simple as bolt the DR caliper up on the forks and go. The fender from the DR also works just fine, but I snagged a polisport YZ fender off of motorcyclesuperstore for $5

    here's a quick cost breakdown for what I is needed to get it to work
    '04 DRZ forks/tree - $200
    '07 RM250 wheel - $85
    RM250 axle - $15
    Box of bolts with headlight brackets etc. - $25
    trailtech vapor - $110
    misc. aluminum flatstock - $5

    So for me it cost $440 with the vapor. I'll make some back when I sell the forks/triple from the DR, but it's definitely a worthwhile upgrade. It completely transforms the bike...I mean it's still a tractor, but definitely less so than before.

    Let me know if there are any questions.

    -Malhon
  3. Rob.G

    Rob.G Mostly Harmless

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    I did some searching after making the post, and it seems those numbers are about right for the DR650. One site got a 14.1 out of it, so I'm darn close.

    I have a 15T sprocket for the bike.. maybe I'll put it on this weekend and try again!

    Rob
  4. Rumlover

    Rumlover Ed

    Joined:
    Sep 2, 2010
    Oddometer:
    707
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    Utah
    I want the 14 second barrier broken!
    You can do it!
    No more food for you untill after the test. I want new plugs installed, oil changed, and a lubed and perfectly adjusted chain. Wax your helmet and wear slick tight fitting clothing. Cheat if you have to, but I want a time reported in the 13s.

    And of course be safe and on a closed course/track as the say, but BREAK THAT BARRIER!
    The honor of this thread is at stake. Good luck.
    :freaky
  5. acesandeights

    acesandeights Asperger

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    What was the KLX time as a comparison?
  6. Rob.G

    Rob.G Mostly Harmless

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    Hahahaha!

    Well as luck would have it, it already has a new chain and sprockets, perfectly adjusted, and oil was fresh 500 miles ago. I just need to go to the hardware store for an M5 tap so I can chase the threads in my 15T sprocket before installing it.

    Speaking of cheating, if you want, I can post the times I'll get from my FZ1 and just not say they're from the FZ1. "Holy crap -- how did you get 10's out of a DR650????" :)

    Rob
  7. Rumlover

    Rumlover Ed

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    Naw, too obvious
  8. Mongle

    Mongle Knuckle dragger

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    North Carolina Y'all
    The Mayans must have been right...end of the world is coming...I had to look on PAGE 2 to find the DR650 thread!:eek1

    Hadn't stopped by in a while. Just thought I would say HI.

    I was surprised to see the 1/4 mile time. I would have thought way slower. Friend had a bone stock 1988 Monte Carlo...he couldn't get it to break into the 14s! 15.01 all day!:lol3 But, I guess the DR is actually lighter then some things. If you do the math (power/weight) it comes out right. I figured 545lbs bike/rider and 35 HP comes out to about 14.55 at 92 mph.
  9. MeterPig

    MeterPig Meh

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    What kind and type of tires?
  10. xKLR_John

    xKLR_John Been here awhile

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    Dang it, y'all are just trying to cost me more $$$. I already bought the regular version of the Seat Concepts seat. It's nice but taller would be even nicer. :D

  11. JagLite

    JagLite Long timer

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    Exactly my thoughts! :rofl
  12. deathu

    deathu Adventurer

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    Bucharest
    Well, it seems that my slide guide is indeed worn out:

    [​IMG]
    Now my question is, it seems that for some reason Suzuki does not offer the slide guide as a replacement part - at least I could not find it in the carb diagrams - so I presume it is not sold separately - am I right? In this case, I would order the slide guide from KTM if anybody can confirm that the slide guide used on the 640LC4 (2001-2003) that has a BST40 carb as well, fits on the Suzuki DR650 stock carburetor. I know that the slides are slightly different (the KTM one has two vent holes, while the Suzuki has a single vent hole), but are the slide guides identical?



    Also, for some reason my cover has a small area where the sealing surface is not flat:
    [​IMG]

    I guess the gap - not visible in this photo - is around 0.3 millimeters. Otherwise the cap does not seem warped. My question is, is there any issue to be expected if i flatten out the whole sealing surface? This means the total height of the cover will be reduced by up to 0.5mm in order to achieve a flat sealing surface. Should I try this, or is a brand new cap strictly required in my case?
  13. eakins

    eakins Butler Maps

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    Took the DR on a sweet weekend dual-sport/camping ride.

    Peak-Peak Hiway, end of Rollins Pass, backway to Fall River Rd, Guanella Pass, made it (barely) over Webster Pass, Ute Pass, backway to Fraiser, Stillwater Pass, Rocky Mtn N.P.

    [​IMG]
  14. ShadyRascal

    ShadyRascal Master of None

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    I'll see that and raise you a Glacier park/Rocky mountain front loop :evil

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
  15. ntm1973

    ntm1973 Been here awhile

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    I ordered a hayabusa/kientech exhaust with a spark arrestor already installed and am looking forward to shedding a little weight but I would like to keep my jetting stock if possible. In fact, my only reason for wanting an aftermarket exhaust is to shed some weight. I went down the cut the airbox top/jet kit route and prefer the stock setup with one shim raising the needle. Has anyone done the hayabusa exhaust and kept the airbox stock? I know jetting is a case by case science but I was hoping for a starting point for people who have done the hayabusa exhaust with a stock airbox.

    Also; Has anyone tried tuning the front fork on the cheap by changing the compression or rebound holes slightly? I am not a big guy (170lbs without gear) or an aggressive rider and I don't feel that I need emulators but would like a little more plushness up front. Has anyone done any experimentation?

    Thanks for any words of wisdom!
  16. eakins

    eakins Butler Maps

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    nice. been to Glacier several times and it always impresses.

  17. sagebrushocean

    sagebrushocean Harris's hawker

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  18. ram1000

    ram1000 Long timer

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    Keep the stock jetting with those changes and you'll likely burn a valve.
  19. Meter Man

    Meter Man Living on a prayer

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    My most favorite place in the world!



  20. TRAVELGUY

    TRAVELGUY Old Traveler

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    May 20, 2008
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    Georgetown, In / Costa Rica
    I'm running a GSXR pipe with stock carb and jetting and having no problems. All it did was save weight which is what I was hoping for.

    TravelGuy.