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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.
Wow. I would have liked to see that odometer. Talk about some serious adventures.
Go to drriders.com and to a search on GSXR exhaust.GSXR can's are very popluar,there are four can's that will work:40F0,35F0,33FO and 24F0.Than are lite wieght,good flow and are a direct bolt on.Dyno jet for the carb or you can go to a pumper carb,you can find info on both types at drriders.com
Well the odometer resets to 0 at 100,000 but it had 3,500 miles on it when i sold it due too my buddie raping it around a telephone pole at 40 mph.. he crushed the headlight odomiter and wireing harness with caught fire so it was all replaced
pics or it didn't happen
Trying to find pics of it from rolling thunder. Got picks of it in the pack in 8 states from that run. Had a tent , sleeping bag, spare helmet and a duffle bag straped to the back... will post as soon as i find them
no need for the gsxr can, which is now hard to source. kientech now makes a midpipe/bracket for the hyabusa can, which is pretty-much the same thing as the gsxr can, and much easier to find now. of course, if you stumble across a cheap gsxr can, go for it.
i would choose a gsxr/'busa can, kientech hi-flow midpipe and a pumper carb. i do have a used yosh can and stock carb that was jetted for it (w/open airbox) if you afre interested....
So here's an odd problem for you. I had done some fairly serious dirt riding this past weekend, and when I was riding to work the next day, I noticed that the bike was feeling a little.."rough." I opened the airbox, and saw that my K&N filter was completely caked in dust and grime. I haven't cleaned it since I bought the bike 4000 miles ago, so I went over to Cyclegear and bought the K&N air filter recharge kit (http://www.cyclegear.com/eng/product/recharger_kit/web1003711). I followed the instructions to the letter, but when I put the filter back in the bike and put the airbox cover back on, the bike won't even idle. I can hold the throttle open a bit and get it to stay running, but as soon as I close the throttle, it gurgles a few times and dies. Taking off the airbox cover lets it idle low, but continuously, and taking the filter off entirely brings it right back to its old self again. Is there something besides what K&N wrote in the instructions that I should have looked out for, or should I just break down and spend the $25 on the Uni filter like everyone else?
I like the TwinAir filter personally. I use a K&N in my truck but it sees far less dusty conditions. Everything else has a foam filter.
I tried a NoToil filter on my DR650 about a year ago but it wouldn't run right. It was either too lean at idle/midrange or too rich. I went back to the TwinAir and it's been fine ever since.
Regardless of filter, you should probably pull the carburetor and spray it out good. I can't help but wonder if it might have sucked in some of the oil from the filter. You might also want to "floss" the pilot jet with a piece of thin-diameter wire to be sure it's good 'n clean. Also doublecheck the AF screw setting.
173K miles, now that's what I'm hoping for!
I've never cleaned a carb before. What should I be spraying it out with, and what kind of trouble am I looking for when trying to pull it?
I see no reason any DR650 can't live well beyond that mileage with proper maintenance. Yeah you might end up doing rings once, maybe even twice, during that time, but a top-end job is pretty darn simple. Not quite two-stroke simple, but simple enough.
The biggest killer of motors is dirt from a bad air filter. Keep the filter clean and well-sealed and keep the motor oil and filter fresh and it'll go a looooong time. 'Course you'll have to do chassis bearings a couple times during that timeframe, but that's easy too. The beauty of this bike is how simple it is and how easy it is to work on. If you don't do your own maintenance, you're doing yourself a disservice. If you don't know how, learn. That's what this thread is for. I've learned a TON from this thread. I'm no mechanic; I'm a programmer for gosh sake. :)
Ya the 40F0 can is hard to get and the price is getting out of hand,but the 35,33 and 24 are eaier to get and still in the 25-100$ price range.Ebay has been a good source for these can's.
Go to Walmart and buy a couple of cans of Carb Cleaner, couple bux a piece. I try to keep at least 3-4 on hand at any given time.
Removing the carb is pretty easy... pull side panels, seat, gas tank. Disconnect throttle cable.. not sure how that's done on the stock carb -- I have the FCR pumper in mine. Anyway, loosen the clamps on both ends, and you should be able to pry it free. You might have to pull the boot between the carb and airbox, but I'm not sure.
If the carb's never been open, the philips screws on the bowl are going to be tight beyond any human reason. I dunno why Mikuni does this, but every Mikuni carb I have ever touched has super-duper tight float bowl screws. I end up using needle-nose vice grips to pop 'em loose and then replace them with socket-cap screws from the local hardware store. I think ProCycle stocks 'em too if you'd rather order them.
There isn't much to "see" once inside the carb if it's fairly clean. Otherwise you may see gunk in there if it's really dirty. If it IS that dirty, then you'll want to totally disassemble it and soak it overnight in Pine Sol or carb cleaner (Pine Sol is way cheaper).. but that's beyond the scope of this post. :)
Anyway... just spray it out real good. Remove the pilot jet and run a wire through it.. be sure it passes through smoothly. Pilot jets have super tiny holes so spraying them out usually won't work. My FZ1's pilots were still clogged even after soaking for 24 hours in Pine Sol. They only came clean with wire, and once clean, man did it make a difference in how the bike idled!!
Try not to be intimidated by all this if you've never done it before. Remember you have this site as a resource.
Alot of maintnence whent into that 173.. had the head rebuilt at 75,000 then the entire motor rebuilt at 125,000 .. and two valve jobs between... i put more money into that motor than the bike cost me new... but no regrets.... i sold it because my mechanic hung himself after working on it... left a note on my bike saying please return to me... just couldnt ride it anymore... but i missed it so i just bought a 2012 and get to start over
On the k&n filter . I ran with one the whole time i owned my first dr650 . I would soak it in a bucket of hot water and automotive simple green. The rinse it out from the inside, let it dry then use the k&n spray oil...... never had a problem
That's good to know! I never thought K&Ns were as bad as some people claim. It all comes down to how well you clean and re-oil it. I clean my K&N's the same way in fact. Well, all one of them since I only have one now (on my truck's S&B cold air intake).
Still, I've come to really like the TwinAir filters and the NoToil oil. The NoToil oil is totally biodegradable so you can wash your filters in the kitchen sink if you want. I have a NoToil filter on my quad (Polaris Outlaw 525) which is much nicer than the NoToil I tried on the DR650.
Did you let it dry out and drain (oil) before re-installing Filter? Check the airbox, the bottom is may be full of oil
How much oil did you spray on there after you let it dry? The instructions were very vague about that bit, so I might have overdone it on accident. Also, how long did you let it dry? I left it out in front of a fan for 45 minutes the first time, and then let it sit out overnight when it wouldn't idle. Tried it this morning after letting it dry for 8 hours on the kitchen counter, and got the same results.
I just rinsed it untill it was white. Shook the hell out of it for a few untill the water stopped spraying off and let it sit in the sun for a halfhour... as far as the spay.. try to evenly coat the filter untill the filter has no visible white.. pinkish red is what you want. But not dripping
Sounds like a fun little project for this weekend. I remember seeing the Pinesol thread on here somewhere, so I'll research that a bit too. I've never done a single stinking thing to a carb before, so I'll be reading the service manual religiously this afternoon.
The instructions just said to let it sit for twenty minutes and verify that it was red all over like the pictures. After twenty minutes, it was the right color, so I popped it back in. I don't remember seeing a puddle or anything in the bottom of the air box, but maybe a little bit of residue.