the DR650 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.

  1. Jammin

    Jammin Living on a DR

    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2006
    Oddometer:
    1,563
    Location:
    New Delhi - new 'home' for post RTW
    Thanks for the help, guys. :beer

    I have a multimeter and the manual and went over the bike today and I think I have a faulty CDI that is leading to a loss of spark. I did a continuity test on the CDI and my results are below. The wire going from terminal 9 (W/Bl) is the power source for the ignition coil. The wire going from Terminal 10 (O/W) is the ground cut off from the Starter button. Does this indicate that there's a ground leakage/short in the CDI and it's sending too many amps to the ignition coil, which then heats up quickly and shuts down the bike? And then when the bike cools for a bit, CDI starts the bike but then after 10 mins, it heats up and shuts down the ignition coil.

    Just to cover all my bases, I did a continuity check on the ignition switch, starter button, generator coil and all is good. No rust or corrosion on contacts. The dielectric grease that I applied in 2010 is still there :D

    Resistance check on the ignition coil: manual says primary coil should be between 0.07 - 0.12 Ohms but I was reading 0.40 Ohms. For secondary coil (at the plugs), stated range is 23 - 25 KOhms but I was getting 28 KOhms. Manual says these are just approx values, so I think coil is fine. As an initial fix at a bush mechanic, I installed two Chinese ignition coils meant for 125cc bikes and the secondary coil on there was only getting 4 KOhms :/

    Bike stats: 1998 model with around 75,000 miles and lots of welding done on the bike with CDI attached but battery disconnected (something about arcing...)

    No luck with sourcing F650 coils in Nairobi, but I've managed to source a used DR CDI and ignition coil in South Africa! Going to be shipped to me next week. Thanks Jenx and Ganjora :clap

    [​IMG]
  2. Rob.G

    Rob.G Mostly Harmless

    Joined:
    Jan 14, 2010
    Oddometer:
    2,292
    Location:
    Fulltiming in an RV! Currently NW Oregon
    Hey, how likely is it for a timing chain to go bad? As in cause vibrations. I know the DR vibrates.. it's its nature. But mine seems to be getting worse. I replaced the chain and sprockets about 1000 miles ago and it was pretty smooth, but now it's already back to vibrating again, and pretty darn bad now. It tends to happen at certain RPMs. It used to be smooth as silk at 5000 RPM, now it's a bit buzzy. And below that, say starting around 4200, it's worse. In fact, from 4200-4800 or so it's kinda bad... smoothing out a bit at 5k, then gets bad again above it.

    Cruising along in 5th at lower speeds, say 55-60, where RPMs hang in the 3800-4000 range, it's kinda buzzy too, but different than the 4200-4800 buzz. It's hard to describe. I wish there was somebody local with a DR650 so I could compare.

    My gearing is close to stock (16/46). The tires are Shinko 705's. The bike has about 23k miles on it.

    So I'm trying to figure out if it's normal, the chain, or something else like the timing chain.

    Rob
  3. Jammin

    Jammin Living on a DR

    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2006
    Oddometer:
    1,563
    Location:
    New Delhi - new 'home' for post RTW
    Power source coil and pick-up coil look good:

    Power source coil resistance: 0.6 Ohms (should be 0.1 - 0.2)
    Pick-up coil resistance: 213 Ohms (should be 170 - 256)
  4. Jammin

    Jammin Living on a DR

    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2006
    Oddometer:
    1,563
    Location:
    New Delhi - new 'home' for post RTW
    Thanks for the bump :thumbup
    Thanks for the help :beer Right now, the dream is on hold :lol3 At least, it's not a nightmare. Electrical problems are the worst!!! Thanks be to the interwebs and connection to the DR community. You guys and the guys in South Africa on Wilddog have been fantastic and Im lucky that these electrical spares are on hand.
    I think the DR needs the battery to run. A dead battery stopped me outside of Sao Paulo, two years ago. I push started the bike but it died in 20 ft, battery was toast, it wasn't holding a charge.
  5. neo1piv014

    neo1piv014 ADV in training

    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2011
    Oddometer:
    627
    Location:
    Albuquerque, NM

    I've got what appears to be the same issue as you, so your posts have been infinitely useful to me. How were you checking the resistance across the coil? I'm picking up a multimeter after work today to start troubleshooting, but I realized that I don't exactly know what I should be checking. I do know from the "screw driver next to the engine case" test, that I'm not getting juice down my spark plug wires, but that's about it.
  6. Feelers

    Feelers Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2010
    Oddometer:
    189
    Location:
    Anchorage, Alaska
    It looks like everything checks out fine besides the CDI. The high resistance reading indicates a more open circuit rather than a short. A short usually reads 0 Ohms or something very small. Amps aren't really sent... A voltage is applied across a resistance which induces an amperage. The amperage depends entirely on the resistance of the load (primary coil), and supplied voltage by the CDI. Without knowing the circuitry of the CDI, I can't begin to figure out the electrical path in your "different resistance valued" CDI. Even if I did know the circuitry, it might be too complicated for me. I guess you could measure the voltage output while cranking the bike - but I don't know the normal voltage so that probably won't help either. Plus, that voltage would be pulsing...
    Anyway, if the CDI is sending out higher voltage to the coil, then a higher amperage will be induced creating more heat. I'm not sure why it shuts down before plain melting or destroying itself though. Maybe it has some sort of thermal protection circuit. Or maybe it is just tough and able to take a lot of abuse while continuing to hobble along at 10 minute increments...
  7. procycle

    procycle Long timer

    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2007
    Oddometer:
    2,551
    Location:
    Center of the DR650 universe
    If at all possible you should be making these resistance checks when the system is failing or at least heating the components up with a heat gun, hair dryer or something. If the problem is only present when the components are hot testing them cold can produce results that are in spec even though the component has failed.

    In my experience the CDI resistance checks outlined in service manuals are not reliable. I've seen plenty that tested bad that were good and vice versa. The reliable test for a CDI is to swap in a known good one.
  8. fastdadio

    fastdadio Still gettin faster

    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2009
    Oddometer:
    2,401
    Location:
    Pinckney Mi.

    Check the torque/tighten all the engine mounts. Even one being slightly loose can give strange but noticeable vibrations.
  9. eakins

    eakins Butler Maps

    Joined:
    May 29, 2002
    Oddometer:
    19,772
    Location:
    Fort Collins, Colorado
    Good info to know Jay. Thnx.
    Hopefully you get that new CDI in and bam she fires up just fine.

    From all your reports you don't seem to have any problem hanging out in 1 spot and making alot of new friends, so i'm thinking you'll have a good week otherwise. Keep on keeping on w/ your RTW DR!
  10. eakins

    eakins Butler Maps

    Joined:
    May 29, 2002
    Oddometer:
    19,772
    Location:
    Fort Collins, Colorado
    Jeff,
    Have you seen many DR CDIs go bad?
  11. procycle

    procycle Long timer

    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2007
    Oddometer:
    2,551
    Location:
    Center of the DR650 universe
    Back in my old mechanic days, yeah, a few. It's a pretty rare occurrence on any Japanese bike made in the last 20 years. On DR650s in particular I only recall reading about one CDI failure in the last 5 years. Jay's bike has seen some extreme duty so anything is possible. I'm more suspicious of the pulse coil even though it has tested within spec.
  12. eakins

    eakins Butler Maps

    Joined:
    May 29, 2002
    Oddometer:
    19,772
    Location:
    Fort Collins, Colorado
    the pulse coil is where the 2 spark plug wires come off of and provides spark, correct?
  13. procycle

    procycle Long timer

    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2007
    Oddometer:
    2,551
    Location:
    Center of the DR650 universe
    The pulse coil is inside the left engine case with the stator. It provides the signal to the CDI to tell it when to send spark energy to the ignition coil. There are 9 wires coming out of the stator case. 3 are yellow (AC stator output) 1 black and 1 white are from the charge coil (provides energy for the spark) 1 blue and 1 green are the pulse coil (provides the ignition signal). Pulse coil failures are not all that unusual in the DR650. The stator makes quite a bit of heat and has constantly pulsating magnetic fields that can physically stress the wires in the windings. The stator is cooled by engine oil. Slow riding in hot weather (I bet Jay has done a lot of that) can shorten the life of all the stator coils. The pulse coil seems to be the most delicate.
  14. neo1piv014

    neo1piv014 ADV in training

    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2011
    Oddometer:
    627
    Location:
    Albuquerque, NM
    I've seen a ton of those pulse coil gone bad threads from different corners of the internet. One guy reported spending over $1000 trying to get his bike working again, only to find out that it was a $40 pulse coil. I find it odd that Suzuki won't sell you one without selling you the entire stator assembly.
  15. MeterPig

    MeterPig Meh

    Joined:
    Jul 5, 2007
    Oddometer:
    17,649
    Location:
    Parker, Colorado...
    I am sure it has been discussed here before-it seems some of the noise source is the skid plate or rather the engine reflecting off the skid plate. I'll hit up a hardware store to coat the skid plate and see how it goes.
  16. disconnected

    disconnected rider

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2006
    Oddometer:
    7,692
    Location:
    Pittsburgh, South Hills
    Hey Gang, I picked up a 02 DR650 last night in excellant condition.


    yay...


    greg
  17. MeterPig

    MeterPig Meh

    Joined:
    Jul 5, 2007
    Oddometer:
    17,649
    Location:
    Parker, Colorado...
    Pics? Condition? Farkles?
  18. Porky

    Porky Don't Pass Gas

    Joined:
    Aug 20, 2007
    Oddometer:
    503
    Location:
    Colorado
    My '08 has a little over 6000 miles on the original Trailwings. At about 6500, or so, both front (cupped) and rear will need to be replaced. I would like to replace them with some sort of street tire (99/1).

    Is there a good cornering street tire that runs more milles than the Trailwings?
  19. ADV8

    ADV8 Taumarunui..Darwin..

    Joined:
    Nov 10, 2007
    Oddometer:
    2,385
    Location:
    North of Sydney.
    2 mm thick rubber strips under the clamps work well also. (If it has that set up)
    When I first rode the DR with the Utah plate I thought the sump oil plug had fallen out,it drummed that much.

    If the frame is marked each side of the clamp before removing the skid plate with a felt pen/texta ,silicone can be used to attach the rubber strips in place around the tube to make installation easier...fwiw.

    [​IMG]
  20. ADV8

    ADV8 Taumarunui..Darwin..

    Joined:
    Nov 10, 2007
    Oddometer:
    2,385
    Location:
    North of Sydney.
    This is a Suzuki TL1000 but the DR650 looks the same (Has a smaller stator)

    [​IMG]