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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.
That's why I love the lady. It's OK she was smiling and laughing about it a minute later.
I remember a guy who does not ride a DR anymore cutting the balls off then sliding the lever back into the whole that is on the bottom of ball and having some one heli-ark them back on...just a cheap suggestion.
There are also handguards that fit off the tripple tree that have room.
I think I ended up using an impact driver on one of them. One of them came out fine for me. The trick was having someone hold everything while I whacked (I believe my wife was supporting it against the footpeg while I did this because the wire is still attached). Of course, just in case of future need, I ended up replacing the phillips head with allen bolts (like the NSU screws). I do not remember the pitch or size now. I was waiting on the gasket, so I just took the screws down to Ace Hardware and matched them up.
I'm going to try getting my hands on an impact driver this afternoon when I pickup a soldering iron or some other way of connecting the wires in the right place. If that doesn't work, I'm really trying to make drilling out the screw my last option. Once I've got that taken care of, I'm definitely picking up some damn allen heads for everything that' got a phillips on it now. What the hell were they thinking...
They're JIS, not Philips? I get tough screws out pretty easily with a cordless drill and a soft setting of the clutch. I gradually use a harder and harder setting until the screw breaks free. Just make sure to fully seat the bit in the screw head before applying torque.
A sand-capable front tire could make a HUGE difference until you build skills in the soft stuff.
I just bought the handguard extenders from Procycle, job done.
Unless the 2 of you are over 400lb or at altitude or something, you don't even really need the 790 kit for 2up touring. Just open the intake/exhaust and tune the carb. If you get it right, it'll do over 90MPH on stock gears, and it'll get there quicker than most factory-stock cages. Not running lean jetting also makes the bike feel a little cooler.
We ride the DR 2up a LOT (dirt, street, AND slab), and our only real issue is that the seat isn't very long. This means that we can't move around much. We're also crowded by a tankbag, tank panniers, a steep IMS tank, and a rear topbox. The rider and passenger pegs are lowered, touring pegs are bolted to the skid, and the seat is a Seat Concepts kit on the stock pan. I also have stiffer springs front and rear. The lowered rider pegs allow my knees to tuck nicely behind the tank panniers. The topbox is moved back 3-4" from where it would normally be.
We're 5'8"/200lb/30"inseam and 5'4"/petite/30"inseam. If you're much bigger than us, I'd suggest a more spacious bike like a DL. The lowered/touring pegs, seat, and springs are highly recommended for much 2up on a DR.
I wound up calling them yesterday afternoon and was told that my part was out for delivery that day. The lack of tracking notification threw me off as well, so I guess I judged a little harshly and a little early. Interestingly enough, did yours come with the red and white wires or the blue and green wires? The first post I read about replacing this thing was from a couple years ago and the general point was "came with blue and green wires, but you have to reverse them for it to work." Then, a couple people from more recently said "came with red and white wires. Put the red to green and white to blue." The company's website was even updated to show that it comes with the red and white wires and how to wire them in. However, mine came with green and blue wires. Before I solder it together, seal everything back up, and put the oil back in the bike, I want to know if they wound up making new replacement parts that are correctly wired. Just curious.
mine came with the blue and green, and a little note saying to reverse them. fired right up, fuck yeah. knocked out the screws with a little 12 volt impact driver, worked perfect. you may be able to get a dremel tool with a cutoff wheel inside the case and cut a slot in the head of the screw, rather than trying to drill it out. solder inside the case or out,either way pretty easy, did mine inside,just because. ________________
My bike sounds a lot like yours - stiffer springs, IMS tank, lowered pegs, Aftermarket (Sargent seat)...
I know the 790 kit is unnecessary - just kind of an added benefit maybe. A longer seat would be the main thing. Do you think this would be sufficient? http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=671846&page=31
Works for me
What's a sand capable front tire? I had new TKCs mounted front and back. Sand was a very small component of this ride, basically about 1 km stretch. Rest was mostly hard pack gravel and then steep, loose rocky climbs and descents. And what's your recommended method for getting through this? My wife took the advice of a fellow inmate and sat way back on her seat, 2nd gear, steady throttle and made it easily on her DR200 running IRC GP1s.
I was on the pegs, steering with the pegs, in 2nd gear but felt like the front got caught in a rut and wouldn't climb out and that's when the front washed.
So, how do you guys who are better at this do it?
I've used a TKC 80 on my DR650 in Baja ... lots of deep sand. It worked very well. Also ridden my buddies Wee Strom with TKC's mounted up. Not bad but the Wee is not easy in sand.
There may be better knobbies for sand but they may not work great on highway ... and for sure won't wear as tough or as long as the TKC's do.
On real light weight dirt bikes (two stroke 250's) sand never bothered me much. When I got more into dual sport riding on 600 class 4 strokes in the late 80's I discovered I SUCKED at sand riding. But over the years ... with lots of practice, crashes and advice from "experts" I've got better at it. I even rode my DL1000 in some mild sand on several Baja and Mexico rides.
I don't believe there is a hard and fast method for sand riding to guarantee success riding a heavy bike. I've a buddy who is amazing in deep sand ... and he sits down through all of it. (XR600R)
For me ... I do better standing up. One of the most important technique, IMO, is LOOKING WELL OUT AHEAD. Ignore whats right in front of you ... fix your gaze far out ahead. Things just get easier. No idea why. It works.
Standing and keeping a very loose grip on the bars works well for me. Steering with your feet works too ... for me. But most important is looking ahead.
I keep my speed moderate and steady ... then when the bike starts to dig in or go squirrely ... I gas it a bit ... but as soon as I'm back under control I slow back down. In long stretches of very deep sand you must STAY on the gas and steadily increase speeds until your past the worst. NEVER slow down suddenly ... you will crash.
Some will say just gas it until the bike "planes out" . Sometimes hard to do on a very heavy, loaded up bike. In my early days in Baja I tried "gassing it" and ended up going 70 mph in deep Baja sand. If and when you crash at these speeds ... you are in trouble.
I like to go about 25 to 30 mph and then gas it just a bit to pull out of deeper sand, then slow back down. But everyone has a different approach. Seat time is what really helps. Work out what techniques work best for you.
Speed is the best way through deep sand. You have to stay on top of it. I live in NJ and used to ride in the pine barrens, which are mostly like beach sand. I found that going as fast as possible was the only way to stay on top. As soon as you slow down, you sink and that's when the squirrely stuff starts.
790: awful nice to have that power when you need it.
A more open knobby pattern up front typically does better for my use. I run an AMS Sand Snake knobby for trails around here. Others use something like a more street-friendly MT21. Some people prefer a wide tire for float, but the steering wanders with a wide front on my bike. I prefer a narrow front tire that acts like a pizza cutter. It doesn't float at lower speeds, but it doesn't need to. It seems to hold a line better, instead of washing out or getting easily deflected.
I use a grooved K761 in the rear. It has enough drive to propel the bike.
Air down the tires a bit. With the front in a rut, lean back and roll on the gas to unweight the front a bit. Get forward up by the tank and kick your inside leg forward with your toes up when you want to turn. With a light bike, your weight position has more influence.
Some people also recommend a steering stabilizer for sand, saying that it makes it easier to steer by weighting the pegs. The gas is still your friend.
Thanks for the tips guys, I'll try to find some sand but I'm gonna practice on the DR.
Your comment about keeping your eyes up hit home. I have always struggled with that, when I used to take our kids out quadding and dirt biking, all we had was sand. I knew to look far ahead and when I'd do that, I'd get to the other side of the mud hole, deep sand pit or what ever and think. "Damn that was easy!". Then try the same trail the next week and end up looking at the fricking rut I was trying to stay out of and down I'd go. I think that's exactly what I did, looked down and of course that's where I went.
Can someone help me with some info please?
I have my DR all put together and I just need a single job to be done. To tighten the magneto screw. Since I don't have a 32mm wrench around I thought of just poping the engine into a higher gear and tighten the screw to 160NM while holding the rear brake. Could that damage something? Seeing that the DR engine puts out about 54NM ...
I managed to cook the number plate on the right side of my DR after putting soft bags on and having the rubber piece that holds the plate off the exhaust fall out. Anyone got an old plate they took off collecting dust that they want to get rid of?
Nevermind, I tried but the clutch is slipping...