the DR650 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.

  1. 805gregg

    805gregg Long timer

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    On DRriders, i asked that same question, all the replies were favorable, with one guy almost staying with a Duc monster 800, only a couple of bike lengths behind, as i recall. When i get some money and time that will be my next mod.
  2. 805gregg

    805gregg Long timer

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    I've got the Britannia Composites Lynx it stops at least 90 percent of the blast, and the Hella lights are worth the whole fairing in themselves, one great product, I recommend it. Corbin seats are like sitting on a brick, plus the fiberglass seat pan is very heavy.
  3. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

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    The DR BST has two holes in the slide, one for the needle another for air. Drilling the slide adds a second hole for air, making the slide 'jump up-n-down' faster. This pic is for a KTM, ignore the 'Drill these 2 holes to 0.125'.

    [​IMG]
  4. greener556

    greener556 Been here awhile

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    Awesome, I did a google search and found a few write ups as well.
  5. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

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  6. 805gregg

    805gregg Long timer

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    Take the other one out and match it.
  7. Lupine128

    Lupine128 That's MR Band Aid!

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    i've got a MCS procircuit quick action throttle sitting here and i'm wondering if anyone can think of a reason not to run it.
    it's a single cable rig, the cheap plastic style MX one and i'm hoping it will work well.
    i can buy one of the 15% quicker tubes from procycle but this is only $30 and i have it already instead of $60+shipped from the states to Australia.

    Thoughts?
  8. Thumper Dan

    Thumper Dan Been here awhile

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    The DR horn is now working again, albeit sounding more roadunnerish than before.

    The problem seemed when I move the horn with the original Safari tank install, it didn't like its new postilion and in fact, as Jeff at Procycle suggested, had to re tune it! It will suffice until I can get one from the wreckers.

    Getting the Safari tank back on was the marathon of the day. The alignment with the brackets seems to change every time I take it off and back on again. I seem to be coming up with new techniques to get the bloody thing back on.

    I may start a "how to put the safari tank back on hints and tips thread page"..............is there one out there already. :puke1

    anyway, thanks for all the feedback (again) :freaky
  9. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

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    [​IMG]
  10. TRAVELGUY

    TRAVELGUY Old Traveler

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    I found mounting and remounting my Safari tank a challenge also. Increasing the hole size and elongating in the bottom mount brace made the job easy.

    TravelGuy

  11. procycle

    procycle Long timer

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    When I remove my Safari I also remove the front brace and bolt it to the tank while it is off the bike.
  12. V8

    V8 NightRider

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    So, does anyone here have a 790 or 780 kit installed?


  13. ADV8

    ADV8 Taumarunui..Darwin..

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    Just lever it forward with a ring spanner using the lip of the steel bracket that is right below the rear of the tank.
    Think about putting a turn of rubber strip around the portion of front stabilizer bracket that will rub on the cylinder head top fin.
    Also rubber tube can be put over each tang that locates it around the frame down tube.
    Look at the routing of the fuel lines so they do not rub on anything in the area of the carburetor.
    Consider splitting a length of rubber hose so it fits over the fuel line that is over the exhaust header as a barrier.
    Keep an eye on the area around the right hand rear mount hole on the tank itself.
    Consider new fuel taps if it has one of those $hitty plastic ones they used to fit.
  14. Thumper Dan

    Thumper Dan Been here awhile

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    That's funny, but at the same time probably practical. :1drink

    Why is that Jeff, so the tank doesn't distort too much. I did notice this time I've taken the tank off compared to others times is I had quite a bit of fuel in it - around 3/4 full. May this is why it was a struggle??

    thanks though

    :freaky
  15. planemanx15

    planemanx15 Long timer

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    I did, and it was awesome, and then I woke up. :D
  16. sandwash

    sandwash Long timer

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    Ding Aling,thats the hard way.The reply from the poster is the easy way.But ya thats the way to do when all else fails:eek1Nothing wrong with asking first.Thats what this fourm is for:thumb
  17. eakins

    eakins Butler Maps

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    great visuals!

    how is it people say the ktm needle works better than an oem needle shimmed? i have 2 washers under an oem needle and was thinking about a ktm needle. i see a wider ktm needle and that means less gas at the oem needle assuming the same resting position.

    even the fp needle is wider. the only advantage those 2 have is clip adjust-ability but washers under the factory needle work just fine to raise the needle and thus more gas...plus the factory needle is thinner as lets more gas through. i see it being the best oem shape option. plus the fp & ktm needle are longer and sit deeper in the carb, less gas, than oem.


    am i missing something here???

  18. 805gregg

    805gregg Long timer

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    Check over at DRRidders
  19. TrophyHunter

    TrophyHunter Long timer

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  20. Rumlover

    Rumlover Ed

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    I am pretty sure the numbers in the chart represent the area left open around the needle -- not the needle diamenter. So it is a little confusing. The KTM one is actually slightly thinner throughout then the (DR) OEM.

    Also the KTM needle is slightly longer because it was designed to be used with the white spacer and an additional (KTM) washer under that, so I am assuming it would sit basically at the same height as the DR needle.
    :freaky

    Edit: Just speculating here, but the additional metal washer/shim on the KTM may have been to protect the white spacer from wear because of the vibrations from the KTM motor. The extra weight of that washer (added to the overall slide weight) may have also contributed to the reason why the KTM slide had two lift holes, to optimize slide lift.