the DR650 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.

  1. Rusty Rocket

    Rusty Rocket Life behind "Bars"

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    Dec 22, 2005
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    Trying to leave CT
    The stock seat bolts are turned to a bit of point (at least mine are) to make it easier to start them when the seat is fightin' yah.
  2. sandwash

    sandwash Long timer

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    I hear ya,it's just back to the bolt store to get another bolt that went missing.The last one was a heat shield bolt.The last one lasted 3 years:baldy
    Bike Runs very well and strong.Move up to 7000',had to change out the pilot down one size(turning it did nothing till fully closed) and the needle clip lower one slot.Plugs alittle dark.The thing starts up at 40 degree weather on one or two rev with no choke.All in all very happy with it:clap
    Other than the horn bracket breaking in half again,it's all good.
  3. procycle

    procycle Long timer

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    Yes. One time I had the half full Safari off the bike for a week. The tank spread so much that the front brace holes were 1-1/2" off! I had to wrap a ratchet tiedown around the tank to squeeze it enough the get the brace bolts in. It was a major PITA.
  4. eakins

    eakins Butler Maps

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    oh man you're right. i was reading that inversely. thnx.

  5. motolab

    motolab Long timer

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    Aside from the clarification by Rumlover about exposed area (thanks Rumlover!), also note that except for the DJ needle, the chart seems to be arranged with the tips even, which isn't all that useful. It would be better to look at mxrob's chart with the diameters, simply because the measurements are all taken in relationship to distance from the third clip (when adjustable).

    As shimming the needle clip preloads the slide spring beyond standard, it results in lowering the slide rather than raising the needle. I would not shim the needle clip unless the goal is actually to lower the slide for a given intersection of throttle angle and rpm. Note that the additional preload from shimming the needle will also make the slide come off the stop at a later point in terms of rpm and throttle position (i.e. more velocity will be required to get it to come up off of the stop).

    Regards,

    Derek
  6. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

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    This normally means the idle circuit is too rich and could be wasting fuel once the engine warms up. But you're happy with it, so theoretical guessing on my part is irrelevant. I'm just jealous that you have a TM-40 and I don't. :cry

    Dang, 1-1/2" is a bunch. I'm glad you measured it to give others an idea of what to look for. :beer
  7. Rumlover

    Rumlover Ed

    Joined:
    Sep 2, 2010
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    Utah
    The only issue I have with mxrob's chart is that it doesn't show the white spacer (or the metal KTM shim) under the clip. That is the stock configuration, and would put the bottoms of the needles (KTM vs DR) at pretty much the same height.
    Just the addition of the white spacer alone would put them a lot closer.

    Also I believe the general consensus is that the DJ needle in that chart is meant to sit at the bottom of the slide (along side the shelf, not on the shelf). This would also make its installed height a little closer to (DR) OEM then pictured in the chart.
    Not sure how the Procycle needle falls in there height wise compared to OEM. A lot of variables to be sure.
    :freaky
  8. sandwash

    sandwash Long timer

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    Quote:
    <TABLE border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=4 width="100%"><TBODY><TR><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: 1px inset; BORDER-LEFT: 1px inset; BORDER-TOP: 1px inset; BORDER-RIGHT: 1px inset" class=alt2>Originally Posted by sandwash [​IMG]
    The thing starts up at 40 degree weather on one or two rev with no choke........

    </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
    "This normally means the idle circuit is too rich and could be wasting fuel once the engine warms up. But you're happy with it, so theoretical guessing on my part is irrelevant. I'm just jealous that you have a TM-40 and I don't. :cry"

    Well it's a FCR-MX,almost the same thing:evil
  9. MADurstewitz

    MADurstewitz MADMark

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    Jan 15, 2009
    Oddometer:
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    Joisey, not far from NYC
    790. Yes! I love it! :clap While I was in there (bearing failure made me rebuild the motor) I put in skf bearings and kibblewhite valves as well. Lots of smooth power. Bike goes like hell and still gets great mileage.
  10. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

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    Oops. :huh
  11. Adv Grifter

    Adv Grifter on the road o'dreams

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    I didn't realize the Safari was difficult to remove/replace. If that's the case with ALL of them ... then definitely not for me. I've taken my IMS off and on at least 30 times in just the last few years. I routinely take the tank off for any maintenance or Carb tuning. Very handy with the IMS, which comes in just minutes. I've done it on the road in Mexico, never a problem.

    Access is important to me ... and is a BIG PLUS on the DR650 in general.
    I see guys on BMW's sweating in the hot sun, going through 30 minutes of struggle just to get down to something.

    The IMS and new Acerbis give over 230 to 250 miles of range (depending how bike is tuned) . Plenty of range for this continent ... Oz is a different world of course.
  12. Klay

    Klay dreaming adventurer

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    Nov 19, 2005
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    right here on my thermarest
    I got 60 miles to the gallon on one tankful recently. Almost 300 mile range on that tank. :eek1 (IMS tank) I've gone to a 16-tooth front sprocket.
  13. Thumper Dan

    Thumper Dan Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 9, 2011
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    It only seemed on this occasion that it was difficult to get back on. Previous times, it aligned more or less straight away. As I mentioned earlier, the tank had a lot of fuel in it so may have been "flexing" a bit.

    Even though it can create some issues, I still love my safari tank and the range I get with it. Even the fact I don't have to go into and fuel up is such a convenience. Last time I fueled up I had 732km and still hadn't hit reserve. :clap

    :freaky
  14. Zapp22

    Zapp22 ZAPP - Tejas

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    Friends
    somebody rescue me from the "First Gear Clunk"... My 97 has a bad case of it. I've replaced the clutch cable, adjusted, adjusted, adjusted, adjusted, changed the oil [currently running Rotella HD 15/40], sacrificed two chickens and a snake, all to no avail. Strained my old oil for any telltale signs and found NO debris at all, though I tried hard. nothing on the magnetic plug either

    mine, like others have reported, is sensitive to temperature and engine speed, and of course, movement. just move it forward at slow walking speed and its really happy. move it backward and its nasty. cold it behaves ok. warm it is more cooperative. hot its ugly.

    upshifting to 2nd is almost as dicey, and downshifting from 3rd to 2nd is like dropping off a ledge

    suggestions?
  15. TRAVELGUY

    TRAVELGUY Old Traveler

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    Grifter the Safari isn't a big problem to remove/reinstall once you've done it twice. I had a IMS on my previous DR and now that I've have a Safari I wouldn't trade it for 3 IMS's. I'm big on accessibility also and can remove my Safari in less than and extra minute more than my IMS and reinstall with a extra two minutes over the IMS. Since both of us have done some serious Central America travel we both understand ease of maintenance "on the road".


    TravelGuy


  16. Andyinhilo

    Andyinhilo Long timer

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    Pull the clutch and check that the metal plates are clean and flat. If they are warped and/or contaminated that can cause drag. Also take a look at the fingers on the clutch basket and see if the sides that engage the fiber plates are smooth. If these are not smooth, they can cause the clutch to stick too. Make similar checks with the metal plates and the clutch hub.

    Mine shifted better after I changed to Valvoline 20W-50 synthetic blend.
  17. ChromeSux

    ChromeSux Plated and screwed

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    That is where i put mine, i had to turn the C clip to where the opening would sit sit along the wall ( flat side ) of the shelf, that way it would go all the way down and not be in a bind or cocked to the side.
  18. V8

    V8 NightRider

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    Thanks

  19. greystoke

    greystoke 2 wheel whore

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    Dec 15, 2005
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    Location:
    Brisneyland
    Prolly common knowledge but when putting the thing back together I do the 2 bolts on the bike (under the seat) first. It's a shedload easier to wiggle the wings into position than to get the under seat holes to line up. Was a 'duh' moment for me after much swearing.
  20. procycle

    procycle Long timer

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    If you're just pulling it off and going to put it back on right away it's not a problem. I believe the problems come it when the tank is off for a couple of days or more and has fuel in it. Mine is off right now and since I knew it would be off the bike for more than a week I drained it and attached the front brace.