the DR650 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.

  1. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

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    Someone else was having problems with his Intiminator front suspension. When he took them apart he found the outer fiber/plastic? ring was distorted. I think it had expanded slightly and was sticking in the fork tube a bit. One fix was to file the ring ends a bit (just like on an engine piston ring). It seems RICOR was helping and working with him. :freaky

    Several users have mentioned clicking when riding.
  2. deathu

    deathu Adventurer

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    Well, I did re-torque the motor mounts and I must say that there definitely is some improvement. Do not get me wrong, it is still nowhere nearly as smooth as my buddy's DR, but some improvement exists. At least now it seems OK-ish at 70km/h in 3rd and 90km/h in 4th gear, previously it wasn't.
    It seems that the engine mounts were tightened to well over 100Nm. At least they required over 100Nm to break loose. I re-tightened them in criss cross pattern to the specified torque of 65Nm.
  3. procycle

    procycle Long timer

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    I don't know if this was mentioned but sometimes it helps to tighten up the motor mounts with the motor at full operating temperature.
  4. Rusty Rocket

    Rusty Rocket Life behind "Bars"

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    Did you also check the head-stay bolts?
  5. deathu

    deathu Adventurer

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    Thanks, I will try that as well.

    Definitely not, but it is not clear to me exactly to which bolts are you referring. Are you referring to the bolts that hold the small engine support "plates" to the frame? If I recall correctly 3 engine mounts hold directly to the frame and 2 to some adapter plates.
  6. procycle

    procycle Long timer

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    3 bolts under the tank. Connect the top of the motor to the frame with 2 triangular plates. These would be the most important ones for transmitting vibrations.
  7. Rusty Rocket

    Rusty Rocket Life behind "Bars"

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  8. isaac004

    isaac004 Been here awhile

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    THIS! This is exactly the weird thing I think I am chasing down.

    [​IMG]

    I just got off the phone with Ricor and explained my problem, and what they told me was the first round of Ricor's (mine were probably installed by the original owner around 2007-2009) had a slight issue with the seal ring being slightly too large. This is also exasperated by the fact that once it soaks and swells slightly from the fork oil, it becomes even bigger (Pro Tip: Belray sends to cause more swelling, even in regular fork seals). This makes sense with what I saw last year when I "rebuilt" the forks with new oil and new seals....it took a bit of force to get the Intiminator's out, as in I had to turn the fork leg upside down and compress it until the Intiminator shot out with force into my plastic oil collection pan. Likewise during installation, I simply could not just "drop them in"...I had to use the fork spring to help them slide in the fork.

    So the guy from Ricor confirmed that I will need to trim down this seal ring. I just pop it off the Intiminator like a piston ring, remove some material either by filing or cutting with diagonal cutters, and reinstall. Once that ring is back on the body of the Intiminator, it should drop right down the fork tube with no resistance. Ricor confirmed that it is OK if it's slightly loose, the effects are not very noticeable.

    Hopefully I will get to this in the next half week or so...I will post my results. Thanks everyone for contributing ideas and thoughts.

    ER70S-2, thanks for mentioning this crucial bit of info!

    planemanx15, this may fix your problem!
  9. NordieBoy

    NordieBoy Armature speller

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    Quite often, the sealing ring is a little too large for a fork leg.

    The internals of the fork legs are not completely true and the tighter tolerances of the sealing ring can cause problems.
    Try swapping the Intiminators around and see if they still make the noise.

    They should slide down the fork tube with the weight of the spring and only a tiny bit of pushing.

    Trim a couple of mm off one end of the rings and you'll be sweet.

    When I was looking for some for my TT350, Ricor wouldn't just supply some for 41mm forks as the internal measurements (wall thickness) is different with different forks.
    They wanted the internal measurement down to the 1/10th of a mm.
  10. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

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    I love it when a Wild A$$ Guess makes me look good. :D

    Now I wonder if the clicking is an audible signal that the Intiminator ring is swelling and starting to stick? :scratch

    Eakins, I hadn't read your Intiminator thread for awhile and had forgotten how well it was explained and photo'd. :thumb
  11. disconnected

    disconnected rider

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    Hi Gang, I used the Search function and found some tid-bits. My DR has the stock tires still and they are pretty warn out. I am looking for some 50/50 tires, what rides well with the DR? I am considering the TKC and Maybe the Kenda Big Block. What type of miles do you guys get from these and what else do you suggest. Mainly for dirt roads, paved commuting and maybe some light singletrack.

    greg
  12. neo1piv014

    neo1piv014 ADV in training

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    Michelin T63 and Dunlop 606 tires are the 50/50 favorites around here from what I've seen. I've also seen some good things about the Pireli MT21's, though none are as cheap as the T63.
  13. disconnected

    disconnected rider

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    Great, Thanks, I was going to look up the T63, since the search function found those in my previous search!. :)

    greg

  14. thetable

    thetable Long timer

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    T63 is pretty awesome for the offroad bits, but they wear quickly, cup, and run hot on pavement. They are my tire of choice for the KLR, but it doesn't see much dry pavement.

    If you aren't playing in the mud, I'd look at the Shinko 705 and Full Bore Adv tires. Smoother on the pavement, enough tread for everything else, and better wear. If it helps, I've run BT003s in the conditions you listed on my 'tarded DR, the muddy sections were, ummm, fun(?), but otherwise, they offered a tolerable level of traction offroad.
  15. thumpididump

    thumpididump MacGyver

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    +1

    I love them both. For the rear, the T63 tends to be a little cheaper, which usually makes it a slightly better bargain IMO, but the D606 can often be found for about $80 on sale. Both perform very well, and they last about the same amount of miles.

    For the front, I prefer the 606 for offroad duty.




  16. Phreaky Phil

    Phreaky Phil Long timer

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    When I was talking to Robert at Kiwi Suspension Solutions about them, he told me they looked at using them but noticed a clicking sound and traced it to the Intiminators poping out of there seats when the suspension is first compressed.
    If you want to contact him http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=815869. His email is on there.
    They won't use them because of this trait.
  17. Kommando

    Kommando Long timer

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    It depends on what kind of surfaces you're riding. I run a cheap ($28), capable-in-dry-dirt Shinko 244 up front most of the time. It handles pavement well, wet or dry, and can be reversed if it starts cupping. It's no knobby in soft stuff or wet clay though. For that, I use an MX knob. In Florida, that means a $21 AMS Sand Snake. It grabs on mud, sand, clay, grass, deep gravel, riding buddies, small woodland critters, the sofa, and pretty much any other soft surface you can find. It doesn't do hard surfaces, like pavement, very well though. I ride it around town and on slab to get to trails, but it wears out much quicker than something like a Shinko 244, and I don't brake/corner hard on pavement with it.

    I run a cheap, long-wearing DS tire in the rear...the $60 Kenda K761. I add extra grooves to the outer treadblocks on these, and make the shallow center grooves full-depth. While lateral traction isn't great offroad, it propels the DR surprisingly well through some nasty stuff if I can just keep it under me and stay on the gas. I got over 6K miles out of my last one, with tread still left on it. Some people see 10K+ miles with this tire.
  18. Jammin

    Jammin Living on a DR

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    A million thanks, Jeff :beer That's the info I was looking for :clap
    Yup, I scoured the parts fiche and found the same P/N for the CDI for all the model years, but your info sounds more reliable and thanks for the link, that's exactly what I wanted to know, how to bypass the ignition switch if need be and sounds like I can make into a proper anti-theft device :wink: I'll take all the parts I need from here.

    My bike is a 1998, so I just made the cut for the current CDIs :D this means my 2006 CDI should work. Good, one problem solved.

    The South African mechanic said he thought the resistor changed from a 400 ohm to 100 ohm but wasn't sure what year that change happened.
  19. eakins

    eakins Butler Maps

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    thanks
    oh hell i probably have one of the very 1st ones produced, but i don't have any clicking and they went in easily. i'm gonna change me oil out this winter so i'll pull them and see how they fit now.

    what oil height have people settled on?


  20. eakins

    eakins Butler Maps

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    the lower sealing ring popping out of the lower body groove?
    or the center body coming out of the lower body?