the DR650 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.

  1. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

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    SE Denver-ish
    Posts 21 and 43. If you're new at this, 81, 83, and 88 might help.

    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=634749

    Very cool. :clap :clap
  2. Load Clear

    Load Clear Adventurer

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    Feb 27, 2012
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    35
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    Center of the Rez, AZ
    Thanks Derek:

    So, will this enzyme additive work its way out after a couple tanks or do I need to drain the fuel? I added it to one tank. I've refueled only once so far but did not add any more startron. It is still not running well in first gear or on start up.

    Thanks again.
  3. jessepitt

    jessepitt Ride More

    Joined:
    Oct 20, 2008
    Oddometer:
    993
    Location:
    Redmond Oregon

    I just got a Seat Concepts Tall foam kit and it is awesome! It made room for my knees and is very comfortable. There customer service is excellent. I called and talked to one of the owners who basically told me I could have any cover option I could dream up for $160 with free shipping for mentioning ADV. I got a carbon top with gripper sides on a tall foam. The install was a breeze and if you don't like how it turns out you can always pull the staples and do it over.
  4. motolab

    motolab Long timer

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    2,868
    I don't know for sure if your additive is at fault, but I do know that the need to use the cold start enrichment longer indicates a lean issue with the pilot circuit. I would replace the float needle if the tip is found to have a witness line, set the float height with the help of a float height setting tool to 14.7mm, replace the pilot jet and set the idle mixture via the following method:

    Start the engine and warm it up. Set the idle CO to 3-4%. Set the idle speed to 1500 rpm. If you don't have a way to measure CO%, lower the idle speed below the factory spec. Starting from a setting that is known to be lean (1-1/2 turns is likely but not guaranteed to be), adjust the fuel screw to obtain the highest idle speed. Adjust to 1/8 - 1/4 turn richer than that. Then, adjust the idle speed back to 1500 rpm.

    For diagnostic purposes, the gear is mostly irrelevant. Throttle position is the important thing:

    Put some tape on the throttle housing and the edge of the grip. Mark zero throttle with a sharpie. This is best done with the engine idling, so you can tell when the slack in the cable has just been taken up. Turn off the engine and mark wide open. Now take a tape measure (metric works best in my opinion) and measure the length of the arc. Put a mark at the mid point. Duplicate this procedure to mark the mid-point between here and zero throttle opening to get 1/4 open. Repeat for 1/8 and 1/16 openings. With the help of the marks, determine precisely during what throttle opening(s) it misbehaves. Don't have an accident trying to look at the marks while riding. If you do, I'm not responsible!

    Regards,

    Derek
  5. acesandeights

    acesandeights Asperger

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    To what is the front axle supposed to be torqued? I just r/r my front tire and don't have my manual to let me know the torque of the axle or the four axle nuts. I think the rear was around 70 - 75...but I can't remember the front. Thanks.
  6. disconnected

    disconnected rider

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    sounds good, I will look this up too. :()) Im 6'2" so I would like a tall seat.

    greg

  7. procycle

    procycle Long timer

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    This procedure will work for most other bikes but on the DR650 setting the mixture screw this way will often result in a slight "rich bog" just off idle. If you aren't going to make other changes to avoid the rich bog most riders have good results turning the mixture screw about 1/4 turn leaner than the highest idle.
  8. canoli

    canoli human

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    Not from round these parts.
    Since I tend to ride to far out of the way places that are devoid of fuel stops, I REALLY do need every last drop of gas in my Safari tank. So my question for those of you that have done this mod to the carb, is it REALLY as easy as the video shows? Is there a special "trick" to not breaking off that elbow that the video doesn't show? I don't own a bench vice and because of my lack of mechanical skill, would rather not remove the carb.

    Thanks,
    Canoli
  9. BergDonk

    BergDonk Long timer

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    I've been involved with 2 attempted rotations and both abandoned due to the amount of force needed and concern about breakage. This was with the carb held securely in a vice and the use of a heat gun to try and expand the body a bit away from the pipe. We cut them off, and threaded it and fitted a straight pipe to both.

    Others have had no problems.

    Good luck.
  10. poppawheelie

    poppawheelie Been here awhile

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    Central Pennsylvania
    It didn't work that easy for me. Tube started to kink, so I left it alone. As a test, with the pig tail, I ran the tank dry. Curly Q did not air lock. Ran the tank bone dry, including sloshing fuel from the right side.
  11. poppawheelie

    poppawheelie Been here awhile

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    Central Pennsylvania
    Wait a minute. Which way is leaner, turning in? Thanks.
  12. Emmbeedee

    Emmbeedee Procrastinators

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    My experience as well. I gave up and lived with it the way it is.
  13. motolab

    motolab Long timer

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    In is indeed leaner.

    Regards,

    Derek
  14. Thumper Dan

    Thumper Dan Been here awhile

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    Australia, Northern NSW
    the other option is to to buy a TM40 pumper carb

    :D
  15. acap650

    acap650 acap650

    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2006
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    Location:
    Western PA
    Been there. With carb on bike and heated got about 20 deg. rotation. Tried for more and the tube kinked. Still runs fine 6K miles later. I'd probably leave it be or pull the stock tube and drill/tap for a straight fitting.
  16. canoli

    canoli human

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    Location:
    Not from round these parts.
    For now I'm just going to leave it alone and before I head out to the middle of nowhere try to run my tank dry.

    Thanks guys for the info. You just saved me from screwing up my carb.

    Cheers,
    Canoli
  17. pzs

    pzs Been here awhile

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    Put a adjustable shifter spanner on pipe and twisted, some force needed but all good.
  18. Rusty Rocket

    Rusty Rocket Life behind "Bars"

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    I posted pics of my Tall SeatConcepts seat here:

    http://advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=19491088&postcount=68917

    I love it. I'm 6'1" and it helped a lot. I did 1500 miles in 7 days and it was the difference between torture (stock) and not even thinking about discomfort. Most days we rode 250 miles. (the first and last days were very short)

    I got the standard vinyl because the gripper mat'l on my KTM pulls at my pants too much when sliding around. A wise decision on a bike that I tend to sit much more while riding.

    Do yourself a favor and get a tall one.
  19. Ren20

    Ren20 Finding Touge

    Joined:
    Jan 25, 2012
    Oddometer:
    111
    Hi guys,

    Is a 2001 dr650SE with 7000 miles for $2000 Fair? Seller wouldn't go down in price. It's a clean bone stock example. I think nada value is about $1600 for that year. Been looking for one for a while. But no luck. Not many people selling. And ppl want $4500 + for newer years in North east.

    updated info, it does have extra gas tank and skid plate. I think that's about it.

    Thanks in advance
  20. Rob.G

    Rob.G Mostly Harmless

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    Doesn't sound bad to me. I've found that DR's tend to hold their value more the older they are, assuming they're in good condition. Not because they're any better, but because the bike hasn't changed in sixteen years. So if it's in real nice condition, I say grab it.

    FWIW, I paid $2200 for my '96 DR650 two years ago. But in my case it had a ton of mods on it, all of which I wanted, that would have cost me at least $2000 to buy myself. So I called that a good deal.

    Rob