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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.
From what i have seen, the tire just slips right on, may take a little lube.
I like the look of that zip tie method a lot. Looks like it gets round the problem of getting the valve through the rim too. (that was a major PITA for me) I'm guessing that the valve goes in first which keeps the bead in the dish of the rim (Jeez, get me, I've done it once and I'm throwing all these technical terms round like a pro)
My bike came with a white IMS tank, its a lower mileage 04, not sure how long the tanks been on there and if the bike was parked outside in the sun alot, causing the fuel to stain through the tank worse, but the bike looks awesome except for that birdcrap-yellow tank. I scrubbed the hell outta the tank with soft-scrub, its better but still yellow. Not as bad as some I've seen, but bad enough to irritate the hell outta me
I'll never buy a white aftermarket gas tank.....ever.
I'm either going to get a decal kit for it or buy another color tank.....we'll see
Forget decals. They won't stick for long. But I wonder if you couldn't dye the tank a different colour?
My white IMS tank has been on the bike for 10 years and it's still white.
Maybe that is bird poop on yours?
thats awesome . I was actully checking out a pipe like that earlier this week
you are right,It is very easy to get the valve stem stem through the rim using zip ties (and put the locknut on it) , then remove the ties and inflate the tire...the tube needs to be inflated just enough to round it out before it is put in the tire and the zip ties are installed. I've only installed three tires this way but am completely sold on the method, no damage to the tube, the rim, or my fingers this way. The whole process goes very quickly with a little practice
that is indeed the one that enlightened me, I should have posted the link. FWIW 24" zip ties should be big enough for nearly any tire and they are easy to find, got mine at a big box hardware store
Any pics of that "tire change" stand? or how it's made? Seems a world better than flopping around on the ground.
That poor old bastard hookah is currently held together with a combination of RTV gasket sealant and packing tape.
- Change oil as already suggested.
- Run a good dose of Techron fuel additive through it to clean out the pilot jet, etc.
- Remove the top chain roller if not already gone and plug bolt hole with silicone.
- Get some case guards ASAP (AMP or Procycle can supply them). One tip over can put the shifter through the case.
Edit: Also, as already touched on, the stock (cv) carb setup makes the bike a little touchy when RPMs are too low and can make the engine shutter, vibrate, and basically sound like a rod is letting go..
Don't panic just keep the RPMs a little higher.
Last night, I decided to have a go at cleaning out my carburetor. The bike had been down on fuel economy, and definitely down on power. I couldn't really shift into fifth gear until around 60 mph without it feeling bogged down and shaky. Just pulling the cap off showed years of dirt and grime that had accumulated. The BST bible thread was a damn near perfect guide to follow, though there were some minor differences. For instance, the pictures there showed some kind of white chicklet ring in the main needle spring, whereas mine was just a spring. I'm not 100% sure what it does, but I guess that I've been running without it for all this time so it couldn't hurt. I also noticed that my needle didn't have any notches for a clip to go into. I took the jets out and cleaned everything out with Simple Green and a hot water rinse. All the parts were dried out with a towel, some q-tips, and a box fan, and they looked shiny again. After getting everything put back together and on the bike, I took it out for a test drive around the neighborhood, there was an immediately noticeable difference. I dropped it into fifth gear at 45 and didn't get any of the bogging down feeling I'd previously had. So if you feel like your bike is down on power, it might just need a good cleaning.
Remove the top chain roller if not already gone and plug bolt hole with silicone.
May I ask why?
Because if it breaks off, and they have, it takes the frame with it.
The chain has been known to break the roller out of the frame, leaving a big hole in the frame. Although some argue it is ok to leave it on, I personally don't see the advantage.
There has been no problems ever reported (that I am aware of) from removing it. The general consensus is to just remove it and forget it.
Some with good fabricating skills have moved it to a different location.
They placed the roller too low on the frame,under the right conditions the chain will want to straighten out and will take the roller out along with part of the frame.Remove it and replace it with a locktite set screw.Then replace lower one with a bearing type,won't be as noisy as the stock one.This is where the upper roller used to be:
The 7 year old yellow IMS tank on my DR650 is still yellow...
sure, I posted some when I made it at http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=822721
and it was definitely worth the effort, it is much easier for me to change tires with the wheel clamped down and at waist level
It was white when you bought it. Right?
The DR650 also uses a lower spring seat. Suzuki calls it a "ring" and its part number is 13331-12D00. Without it, the needle will rattle and the slide spring preload will be reduced.
Did you inspect the float needle, slide guide, emulsion tube, jet needle, and slide for wear?
With the needle having been allowed to rattle around like that, I would be most concerned about emulsion tube, jet needle, and slide needle hole wear.
How many miles are there on the carburetor?
Stock '04 DR650.