the DR650 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.

  1. motolab

    motolab Long timer

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    That makes a lot of sense! In the future I'll say that it shouldn't require much fiddling unless you will be riding in conditions where there are large changes in altitude.

    I do have one more concern, and that is that the material an extended fuel screw is made of seems to be important. On other carbs I've seen galling and seizures when the extended fuel screw is made out of aluminum (that is a similar material as the body). I would therefore specifically look for one made out of stainless steel or brass, and I would put a dab of grease on the threads before installing.

    Regards,

    Derek
  2. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

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    :beer

    I have a soft touch but now I can see an inmate going after the idle screw with an 18" pair of channel locks for their interpretation of 'snug'. :rofl
  3. Sierra Thumper

    Sierra Thumper Been here awhile

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    Thanks for the info Sarah :D I almost bought some of that Bleache White when I was in Walmart the other day, but after reading the label it made me a little nervous that it might damage or streak the tank, and damage the paint and other stuff on my bike if I wasn't super careful.
    Maybe I ought to pull the tank off so I can really soak it good...
  4. rowie

    rowie Been here awhile

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    I wanted to replace mine when I installed a new drive gear. It is an odd size and the only local bearing supplier was not able to find a replacement. So I filled it with grease and said she'll be right :D
  5. neo1piv014

    neo1piv014 ADV in training

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    Well, I got the clip thing for the big spring in my carb, but it's still doing the "quarter to half throttle open then die" trick it started doing yesterday. So, I set the idle mixture screw to 1 1/2 turns out, and it wouldn't even start. I got it to turn over once, but that was it, so I backed it out to two full turns out, and it started right back up. Once again, it wouldn't let me open the throttle to any real degree (even with the clip correctly in place now), so I pulled the carb back off the bike to check it out as per Mr. Motolab. Here's to hoping it isn't anything major.
  6. neo1piv014

    neo1piv014 ADV in training

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    While taking it apart, I did notice a few things that escaped me the first time I opened this up. The first is the main needle. It almost looks like it's bent or crooked.
    [​IMG]

    Having never seen a different one, I'm not really sure if this is wrong or not, but there it is. I also noticed that the O-ring that sits on my float assembly - the larger of the two O-rings that goes underneath my float weight - is able to spin almost freely around in it's notch. Probably worn out. So it looks like I'm going to have a bit more of a shopping list for the procycle folks.
  7. TinMan207

    TinMan207 Most often a lurker...

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    Many thank for the link!

    What are you using above the hub and below your "wing-nut"? Some kind of spacer? Large Socket?

    Again, thanks. LOVE the idea!
  8. jessepitt

    jessepitt Ride More

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    That thing is definitely bent!
  9. neo1piv014

    neo1piv014 ADV in training

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    What in the hell would have done that? There's only one place where the damn thing could go when putting it back together, and I've never had to force anything when working on this carb. Oh well. Looks like I'm in the market for a new needle in addition to O-Rings.
  10. motolab

    motolab Long timer

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    I wouldn't worry about that too much. What I would worry about is if the float cage does not fit snugly in the carb body, i.e. it falls out by itself, and/or requires zero effort to install, or if the o-rings otherwise exhibit evidence of hardening, shrinking, deformation (i.e. no longer having a round cross-section) or cracking.

    Regards,

    Derek
  11. motolab

    motolab Long timer

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    Might I suggest an adjustable one?

    Regards,

    Derek
  12. neo1piv014

    neo1piv014 ADV in training

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    Ah. I had to use a little bit of effort to pull it out. It was definitely snug in there. So when I was putting the float assembly back into the carb, I was pretty strictly following the pictures from that BST bible post. When it was perfectly horizontal, the float was swinging out away from the carb body. When as I tilted it up to 60 degrees or so, the line on the float was running parallel with the edge of the carb body. Then, when I put the carb flat on the table, the float fell into the body like the pictures showed. I'm awful at explaining anything, but this is what I'm referring to:
    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=347184
  13. neo1piv014

    neo1piv014 ADV in training

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    You definitely may. Any preferred source that I should snag it from?
  14. Paddle007

    Paddle007 Been here awhile

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    I'll back you up on that. I had a friends DR with the TM40 carb that was kicking my behind with running problems. One of the problems was no adapter ring and the second was the tip of the mixture screw was broken and stuck in the bottom of the hole. No air could pass through and it created some strange running problems.
    [​IMG]
  15. neo1piv014

    neo1piv014 ADV in training

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    So with everything put back together again, jacked up needle and all, I got it back on the bike, and she fired up like nothing had ever happened. I let it warm up, verified that it idled without the choke after a minute or two, and took her for a ride. Knowing I have a messed up needle may be inducing some bias in the testing, but the fueling feels a little odd now. Nothing I can really put my finger on, but that's getting replaced, so we'll see. I've also noticed that it pops a good bit on deceleration/engine braking. It's not terribly annoying, and I might just be noticing it now because I usually ride with earbuds in place. Should I just hold judgement on this thing until I get the needle replaced? Thanks to everyone for chiming in on yet another of my little projects.
  16. motolab

    motolab Long timer

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  17. neo1piv014

    neo1piv014 ADV in training

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    What angle-drive screwdriver are you using? A quick glance around the hardware stores in my area showed a few right angle screwdrivers, but they were all quite stubby. If there's a nice, thin one, I'd get that in a heartbeat.
  18. BergDonk

    BergDonk Long timer

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    What is interesting about this is that, all other things being equal, which of course they almost never are, if the only change is the tyre width, keeping the same type and construction of tyre, and the same air pressure, as the tyre gets narrower, the pressure at the patch increases, which flattens the contact patch. The net result is that the surface area of the contact patch is more or less the same, but its shape gets progressively narrower and longer. Arguably more relevant when talking about 4 wheeler tyres which of course have a nominally flat tread.

    A wider leading edge to the contact patch creates more flotation on soft surfaces. In fact sand is like going up a hill all the time. The tyre sinks in and is always climbing up the front edge. Make it narrower, and its a steeper/deeper face to climb out.

    A longer contact patch can add stabilty compared to a wider one. Its why we prefer 21" fronts to smaller ones with wider tyres on our dirt bikes. The contact patch isn't much different in size, but the shape is longer, hence more directional stability.

    Make sense?
  19. Tex76

    Tex76 Motersykle Advntyers

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    Hey guys, anyone know where I can get a black rear fender? I've been changing plastics and I've ordered the rear black twice and both times they email me a couple days later canceling the order because its not available. What gives?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. acesandeights

    acesandeights Asperger

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    Procycle?