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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.
Well, here's to hoping you decide to get back on the horse next year.
Speaking of dead batteries, the stock battery on my 2009 DR is about wore out, I think.
What's the collective's judgment on the best replacement battery for these bikes? Somewhere along the line I seem to recall reading that the best replacement battery was – oddly enough – the OEM battery.
Is it worth getting an AGM or whatever battery? One of my main concerns is that I don't want a battery that's going to leak acid all over and turn my motorcycle frame into Iron Soup...
TIA for any advice guys!
If you're worried about leaking, Shorai (I think that's the name) makes a gel battery that's gotten decent reviews.
Keep your bike on a battery tender when you're not riding it, and you'll get 8-10 years or more out of a stock battery. My 04 busa and 06 zx14 are still on the stock sealed batteries with that method, and my other bikes get 8-10 years out of a good quality sealed agm battery (or stock if you want to spend that much). I rarely buy batteries
Just use the pigtails that come with the tenders, and its super easy to quickly plug the bike in when you park it. Plus your bike will run and start WAY better all the time with a fully charged battery...great peace of mind
My DR had a Yuasa AGM in it when I bought it 4 years ago and it is still going strong.
Any north Florida DR riders here? I just picked up a 2003 for commuting and I think I have a nightmare on my hands. I want to go back to stock, I have the stock carb but it has the Pro Cycle jet kit, Twin Air filter and a stock "drilled" pipe and cut airbox. If you have 100% stock carb kit, airbox, filter and pipe please trade me.
Shorai batteries are Lithium Iron, not a gel battery.
have you try one to see wheather it charge up well?
You want to go back to stock? :huh
What is the jetting it's running at the moment?
Should be a 145 main and 3rd or 4th from top clip on the needle.
I loved my TwinAir, drilled pipe, ProCycle jet kit and cut airbox.
i had a shorai in a f650gs dakar & it worked great!! really odd that on cold mornings it wanted to sit with the light on for 30 seconds or so to warm up before starting, but that seems to be a trait on the lithium battery. they are half the size of a standard battery & weigh only a couple of pounds, if that.
Thanks fellas. After perusing your links and doing a Google search of advrider (way better than the in-house search functionality BTW) I decided that if I need a battery (I'm hoping this one might just need some water and a charge) the 10.5 Ah AGM Motobatt MBTX9U for ~ $67 is the way to go.
I appreciate your help.
Thanks Derek and ERS70S-2 this is just what I was looking for. Be a nice winter project to get it running well for next season as well as a little general education.
Why not just rebuild the carb if/as needed and tune it properly?
I have used two OEM batteries and had great luck with both. Over 2.5 years on both. I gave my original away, its still going in buddies bike (so it's now 6 years old). The other I have on a Tender as a back up, near 100%. I replaced it with a battery from Batteries Plus which was more money, not as good. Avoid. OEM is better, cranks faster, lasts longer.
You may find something a few bucks cheaper than OEM but I think I only paid in the $50/$60 region from Babbit's Suzuki for my OEM batt.
Deals are out there for OEM batteries. Shop around for Suzuki dealers online.
The OEM is a sealed, MF (maintenance free). It's Made In Japan by Furukawa, FTX9-BS. As good ... or better ... than anything out there. Is shipped with Acid pack, so you activate it when you get it. (which I much prefer as initial charge is important to do right)
The new Lithium/Iron Shorai seems to be a step up; new tech, smaller, lighter package. More money but should out last stock Battery by double or more. Great in super cold, holds charge well. Does not need to be on a charger. The perfect travelers battery.
Antigravity batteries are the new hotness. Lot more CCA then the Shorai, better warranty and made in the US instead of China. Of course they're more expensive as well $179 for the 98 + DR's
Any of you fellas know if it is possible to disable the low beam rocker switch thereby making it a headlight shutoff switch ? In other words, high beam position headlight on, low beam position, headlight off.
I had a Motobatt on my Husky TE610 and really liked it. Especially the 2nd set of terminals was really nice.
Sure, its possible, but you'll be giving up a high beam or low beam depending on which way you decide.
Your headlight should be a 3 prong plug. 1 wire is ground, 1 is low beam, & 1 is high beam. The easiest way assuming you don't mind missing the high beam is just cut the high beam wire. You'll have no light on high beam, but will still have one on low.
Now if you really want high beam to be the "on position" and low beam to be off you'l you'll have to take the high beam wire and put it on the low beam part of the light and remove the low beam wire. That will mean your little blue high beam indicator will be on anytime you are running the low beam.
BTW, they do make switches with an off position that allow you to retain your low/high beam, but also have an off position too.
+1 there is a couple threads on here about Shorai and Antigravity and Antigravity did much better in the tests people were doing.