the DR650 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.

  1. victor441

    victor441 Long timer

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    That would work if you snipped and capped the low beam wire at the headlight socket, but there is a much better way to add headlight switching and retain both beams by adding a relay and two diodes, under $10, works great...see http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=506789
    I wired a Ducati up that way and posted some additional info that might be helpful at http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=32045 (the wire colors shown below are for Ducati, Suzuki colors different (HB is yellow IIRC) but otherwise wired the same)

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  2. barko1

    barko1 barko1

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    Yes! I installed a rocker switch so I could turn off the headlight to conserve power when running my electric vest and heated grips. My high beam works as it always does but if my added switch is off then there is no low headlight. If I turn my added switch on the the stock headlight switch and light works as usual, both high and low.
  3. Adv Grifter

    Adv Grifter on the road o'dreams

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    Yes, that's how my headlight is wired. I found the correct wires up in headlight Nacelle ... leave the HI/LO beam switch alone.

    I originally ran the high beam wire through a separate switch I mounted in dash. In high beam position I could turn headlight light ON/OFF using my added switch. In low beam, light operates normally, switch has no affect.

    When I added a single filament 35W HID I no longer had a high beam light, so now, high beam position is OFF, low beam is HID light. Wiring did not change other than to by-pass former ON/OFF switch, which is no longer needed with this set up.

    Clear as mud, right? :D :eek1

    The wires you want I think are yellow and red. (??) Trace them back from bulb and you can figure out where to cut and where to run your switch (if desired). I found this easier than trying to fiddle the delicate HI/LO switch on the handlebar.
  4. dman

    dman Been here awhile

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    Sep 29, 2004
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    Santa Cruz, CA
    Had EXACTLY the same issue, and as another poster said, WD40 solved the problem in seconds.
  5. DockingPilot

    DockingPilot Hooked Up and Hard Over

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    Thanks fellas,
    did it, easy-peasy.
    If I'm riding on roads with cars I always have my hi beam on (modulated), never the low. So the low for me is kinda useless. Even at night because it just don't put out enough on either quite frankly. And I hardy ride at night. So to run my Gerbing jacket and gloves I can now just easily switch it on or off depending on the situation and what my 478c is reading for voltage.
  6. eakins

    eakins Butler Maps

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    Fort Collins, Colorado
    nice catch. $8 more but it's 160cca vrs 120 on the Deka.
    bike has to start really strong.
    deka is us produced vrs china for the motobatt, but the chinese can produce quality if instructed to. not as many reviews of the motobatt vrs the deka (aka big crank and a bunch of other relabels). i'm on 3yrs with my deka and it still starts strong. at these prices, when the battery gets questionable after 4yrs i just pop for a new one.
  7. badweatherbiker

    badweatherbiker Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2007
    Oddometer:
    712
    Location:
    North Florida

    I have to pull the carb this weekend to check it out but it surges from the time I take off all the way through the gears and at highway speed. If it was right it wouldn't be a big deal but I don't have the time to tinker. the jet kit was installed by the p/o around 200 miles ago in August.
  8. barko1

    barko1 barko1

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    Mine crapped out and no amount of WD40, contact cleaner, etc seemed to help so I picked up a newer one off Ebay. WD is probably good preventive maintenance, thanks for reminding me. Heading to Monticello Canyon in NM Friday, somewhere around 30-40+ water crossings:evil
  9. motolab

    motolab Long timer

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    Does the problem get worse or better as the engine warms up?

    Regards,

    Derek
  10. planemanx15

    planemanx15 Long timer

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    Long Island, NY
    Now that the weather is getting cooler, I have a question about the oil cooler. My commute to work is short, about 10 mins). Today it was around 45*F and the oil temp barely got to 110*F as per my vapor. That includes a 2 minute warm up prior to riding.

    Should I cover my oil cooler for these short rides so that the oil can get to a better operating temp?
  11. Zapp22

    Zapp22 ZAPP - Tejas

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    If one were to pro-actively rebuild the Transmission, and wanted to make sure its as bulletproof as possible, would you use aftermarket parts or not?
    I realize our friends at Procycle [and maybe others?] have a super high-quality 3rd gear kit, but I'm wondering if the collective really KNOW FOR SURE what causes the 3rd gear to detonate the trans??? Its just really hard for me to fathom that Suzi would manufacture all the parts for the trans, and keep on manufacturing just one defective component... it does not pass sniff test.

    So if rebuilding with Race-proven Baja-capable parts is the ticket - is there any science on how many of them blowup for one reason or other? how many units have been tested, in-service, for long periods of time as have the Suzuki parts? its a rhetorical question....

    you who have done the job, what did you use?
  12. Zapp22

    Zapp22 ZAPP - Tejas

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    i think you're on the right path. TTalk has a lot more discussion of carb/rebuild/etc for DR and my own personal opinion after reading obsessively on the topic is that its not easy to actually IMPROVE overall perf... there are far more fails than successes.... way, way, way more. those who are really good wrenches can succeed beautifully and have a bike that goes 5mph faster and gets there a good deal quicker, if that's important to you.....

  13. neo1piv014

    neo1piv014 ADV in training

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    Albuquerque, NM
    This is why Derek is a life saver.
  14. P-P

    P-P Adventurer

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    Jun 2, 2008
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    97
    Location:
    The Wild-Wild West... Northern Nevada

    I use Silicone Spray - more dielectric and lasts quite well.
  15. GaThumper

    GaThumper Road Less Traveled

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    Thumpin' in North GA - headin' for the Smokys
    Here's some info I've posted in the past. Has anyone used the YTZ14S? 230 cca sounds interesting. If your supplier only references batteries by bike, tell them it's a 2003 Honda ST1300. When my Deka wears out in a few years, I'll probably try one myself.

    Edit: I just noticed that the link in my original post is now broken. I've saved a copy of the PDF so I have a copy the whole report if needed. It can also be accessed in the archives.

    http://web.archive.org/web/20110601105902/http://www.cs.clemson.edu/~westall/851/suzuki-battery.pdf


  16. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

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    That's a lot of good information. You could put it in Krusty's DR Index. :nod
    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=14469062&postcount=32

    While you're doing that, you could include your earlier info about the clear turn signal lenses with amber bulbs. One of the first mods I did to my DR was to replace the turn sigs with some that have clear lenses/amber bulbs. Problem is they're brittle, break easily, and are no longer available. :puke1
    Thanks for the good stuff. :freaky
  17. Pike Bishop

    Pike Bishop Pull Down the Ponzi.

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    Your Back Yard
    My 2009 DR650SE purchased from a dealer in the U.S. also starts with "JS1" followed by two letters, then 2 digits, then a letter, then nine digits.
  18. neoxaero

    neoxaero Adventurer

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    Sep 29, 2012
    Oddometer:
    13

    I'm in the process of having mine rebuilt right now. I was having some issues with it falling out of 2nd gear so I decided to just bite the bullet.

    From the reading I did prior to getting the work done, it seems in 06 or 07 suzuki released a new 3rd gear that replaced the old one. I'm assuming it was done in an effort to address the issues with the gear blowing up. I decided to go a head and replace my gear with the newest one instead of buying the billet unit. Hopefully I don't regret it, but I couldn't justify replacing a $50 dollar part with one that costs $500 when the stock one may or may not blow up at some point.

    Obviously, If I trash the engine in the bike due to a 3rd gear failure I'll be kicking myself.

    I may consider doing the nice 3rd gear when I put the 790 kit in the bike as a little bit of extra insurance
  19. NC Rick

    NC Rick Cogent Dynamics Inc

    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2007
    Oddometer:
    723
    Location:
    Asheville, NC
    Cogent Dynamics is still looking to purchase or barter for a good set of DR650 forks...:ear

    Thanks!
  20. mrprez

    mrprez KJ4WMZ

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    Apr 25, 2008
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    Totally stock '04 DR with just over 6000 miles. A bit rough cosmetically but will be the base for an ADV style bike. Let the farkeling begin!

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