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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.
Thanks! A camera can make most anyone look good. It should clean up OK though.
Any mods planned in the near future for it? I didn't see anything looking broken on it, so at least you might not have to make your first farkles repairs.
Actually, the magneto cover has a repair where the shifter must have punched through, so case savers might be in order. I might work on the front forks, I had to do a panic stop on the way home and thought I was going to go over the bars! Plans are to put an Acerbis tank and an aftermarket seat or foam and cover. Might try to Spencerize the seat, he does a pretty good job. The seat seems wide enough, certainly much wider than the one on my DRZ. Lowered pegs, better handlebar and hand protection, maybe a Vapor bike computer....the list is endless. I often wonder what it would cost to get one of everything on the ProCycle website for a DR...
Oh, the salesman said it was only ridden to church on Sundays by a little old lady!
i still don't think anyone knows for sure what is the cause of the 3rd gear blow-up - whether there is something specifically wrong w/the way the trans loads 3rd gear, or whether it's a mfr'ing defect w/the 3rd gearset, or something else. and, as there is no data on use of bikes w/the custom 3rd gears, no one yet knows whether this is a good "fix", or whether it will simply shift the (unknown) problem elsewhere and cause something else to grenade. these new 3rd gearsets are simply too new for there to be any "1st hand experience". i have not heard of anyone w/a dr650 having a complete custom racing gearbox done up for them. i guess if you have enough money to buy a 2nd new dr650, you could have a custom gearbox done for you - a 6sp box would sure be nice!
there is also no info confirming that the "new" suzuki 3rd gear was anything more than a vendor change. there's no evidence of its being strengthened in any way, and there's plenty of "post-'06-'07" dr650's that have had 3rd gear grenade on them.
that said, the "plenty" i am referencing is something on the order of 1 in a 1000, so i am really not sure it's a potential problem that is worth addressing. there is no way i would be paying $600 for a pair of matched third gears, when you can get a factory pair for a fraction of that price. especially since there is no data that it's even a fix for the problem. if i were into my engine for any sort of major refurb, i would have my stock 3rd gears professionally checked/magnaflux'd, to be sure they're ok and then have the entire gearset cryo'd, replacing the existing 3rd gearset w/factory parts if there were evidence of wear on them. (whatever you do, if you are replacing 3rd gear, be sure to buy the pair, not yust the one gear, if you go for replacement w/stock parts.)
Interesting comment about the Deka being actually higher CCA than the rated @ 120. i've always had nothing to top service and life out of Deka and will continue to keep buy $60 http://www.tristatebattery.com/product_info.php?products_id=973 for my DR.
After 4 yrs i just pay another $60 and have peace of mind for another 4yrs. Easy as pie.
Saving a few lbs on a Shorai when used in a heavy DR seemed more like a waste of $ IMO, but i know alot of guys love em. Sure on a light dirtbike where every lbs counts it makes sense, but the DR is heavy and not a dirtbike.
Crazy how Yuasa is getting those larger batteries in the same size and still using AGM. If you look at Deka sizing is does go up and what i'd expect.
In the end, my $ is on a new Deka and 60 bones too.
Originally Posted by GaThumper View Post
There are some more powerful batteries that will fit our battery box. I haven't tried one yet, but when my Deka battery needs replacing again (in a few years!) I might try one of the "bigger" batterys. Here's some info I picked up when I was looking at replacing the battery on my '09.
I'm using a Deka battery made by East Penn Mfg. Their replacement for the standard Yuasa YTX9-BS is the ETX9.
I haven't tried it myself but I have found out that there are three Yuasa Batteries that are almost exactly the same physical size, but more Amp Hours/Cold Cranking Amps. I was really tempted to try one in my '09 when I replaced the battery this spring, but ended up going with the Deka.
The stock YTX9-BS-BS is 150x87x105 mm and 8AH/120CCA
The YTX-12A-BS is an AGM battery with the same dimensions and 9.5AH/175CCA
The YTZ 12S is an AGM battery that is 150x87x110 (5mm taller) and 11AH/210CCA
The YTZ 14S is an AGM battery that is also 150x87x110 and packs 11.2AH and 230CCA
I went to pick up 2 of the YTZ14S for me and my riding buddy and when tested one of the only two in stock had a bad cell. That made me uneasy, so I had him bring out a Deka ETX9 and test it and it exceeded the CCA of the YTZ14S so I bought the American made Dekka this time. (the salesperson told me Deka is known to be conservative in rating their batteries) I'd still like to do a side by side comparison of the YTZ battery and see if it spins the DR any better, but I've always had good service from the Dekka, so I'm not sure if I'll switch next time or not.
It sure looks like the YTZ14S might be an interesting replacement for the YTX9. It;s only 3/16" taller (5mm) and with a couple of washers under the battery retainer it apparantly fits under the seat just fine. However, if you are really concerned about weight, it does weigh about 2 pounds more than the stocker.
The only concern I might have is that there are probably more plates in the higher capacity battary in the same (relatively) size package. I've read before that this could cause a problem due to the plates being closer together.
Having said all that, I'm REALLY satisfied with the Deka ETX9. Also made in the U.S. of A. if that matters to you.
I can't take credit for this. Here's the article I found this info in and a big THANK YOU to "Scott", wherever you are!
its the same, still did it after I got home from a 65 mile ride.
I just want it to work, its a long way home everyday and that surging is awful!
That doesn't look rough from here, nice buy! I really like mine as long as I can get the surging to stop.
I need to post a pic but don't have a smugmug or anything.
Might try a little duct tape on the air box opening, maybe close it off about a third. See if it cures the surging, or at least lets you know what direction to go when you want to fiddle with it more.
It is amazing how the opening affects the air/fuel ratio. Your just adjusting the air to the jetting, instead of the other way.
Worth a try and easily reversed.
Edit: also might want to look at where the carb vent hose/filter (the little filter under the seat) is hanging. some report that simply isolating it from the big opening in the air box top sometimes cures surging.
I just posted this over in the no moaning and pissing thread, sorry if there is some rule against making the same post in two threads but I couldn't be bothered reading the site rules.
I just got to thinking.
Everyone refers to the DR650 as the ultimate 'zombie apocalypse' bike.
Sorry, but I tend to disagree.
The bike is not fuel efficient enough.
Ok ok, the DR650 is quite a fuel efficient bike, especially considering how much forward-lurching torque blast-outta-da-cornerz fun it has, it really is.
But for a zombie apocalypse/post nuclear disaster bike? Sorry, no.
The bikes that will truly shine when shit really hits the motherfucken fan will be bikes such as the TW200, the CT110, the DR250, the XT200.
Bikes which use fuck all of nothing petrol and will get you anywhere and everywhere, and will keep thumping along happily all day. Because lets face it, petrol is going to be damn near unobtainable, and when you can get it, it will be very expensive (think $5 a litre) and people who sell it will be few and far between.
A multi-fuel motor equipped DR650, a la the HAYES-DT M1030-M2, capable of achieving near 100 MPG. Now THAT would be unstoppable.
Think of the logic behind it. A powerful, high-revving, torque rich, mechanical direct injected, indestructible engine capable of achieving astonishing astonishing fuel mileage mated with the most versatile best go-anywhere any-time bike known to man.
When the zombie apocalypse/post nuclear disaster inevitably hits, there's going to plenty of people scraping a living together making fuel this engine is capable of happily running on. It is going to be the most widely available and cheapest fuel in existence. After all, you can make kerosene/diesel out of used motor oil (providing you run it through an oil cleaner first) very cheap and biodiesel out of vegetable crops, and lets not forget the vast quantities of unused jet fuel that will be looming around in stores. All of which the M1030-M2's engine is capable of running on quite happily.
One of these days either Hayes-DT is going to release their magnificent single cylinder diesel motorcycle engine into the public sector, or someone is going to design and manufacture an equivalent nearly as good (perhaps better?) engine and make it available for sale to the public. I plan on being one of the first to have it adapted it to the DR650 when this happens, so that I will have the edge when petroleum becomes unobtainium.
You can use Google Picasa or Photo bucket, both free.
Sent from my A500 using Tapatalk 2
Alright, I give up. How the heck do I post a pic from Picassa?
Wow...that battery has the same dimensions as the OEM battery, except it's 3/16" taller, which should fit. More importantly, it has 230 CCA versus 135 CCA for the OEM battery.
Best of all, it's available on ebay with free shipping for $38 at
Right click on the pic in picassa, small or large, select 'copy image location'
Go to your post, click the pic icon, paste the image location, and Bob's your uncle.
OK, so just realized that my neutral light isn't working. How much trouble am I in and what's the best route to take at this point. I don't want to assume that the unknown to me PO did anything about fixing the screws or removing the NSU altogether. If it was removed would it be obvious somewhere where the cable exits the motor somewhere????
Is there a change in severity?
no change, surges constantly. backfires some on decel (drilled stock pipe)
I'm not asking whether or not it surges constantly. I'm asking whether the severity of the surging changes with engine temperature.
nope, same all the time all temps
Don't run the engine anymore till you take the right sidecase off. You may find one or two screws loose in the bottom of the case. They are for the neutral light switch, it is a common problem. If you run the engine they may get caught in the gears.