Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.
The new Suzuki 3rd has also blown up...
Oh excellent, it's being done already. Can't wait for them to make this available in Australia.
BTW the picture is of the Hayes bike I mentioned, not the altius.
The other problem is that when I go really fast, my skirt keeps blowing up. Can you help?
Whatever you need
All good there.
I spent an hour thinking about getting the vapor before i ordered the cable last week, so I'm already halfway there.... Lol. Honestly,i couldn't find a decent pic of a vapor installed to give me a good idea of what it would look like.
Planning a month or longer trip into Mexico this winter. Thinking of sealing my DR rims so that I could run tubeless and just plug a tire if I get a nail or something. A lot quicker and easier than changing a tube on the side of the road. I read in another older thread that Grifter was planning on doing that to his DR but there was no results posted. Has anyone done this on their DR and what were the results, I am running stock wheels so the Tubeliss system is not a option? What about running tires designed for tubes tubeless on sealed rims without tubes?
I have already decided on the rims sealing procedure that I will and have supplies on hand. Just interested in the results that other DR riders have had.
Sorry I don't have any DR experience to relate but I'd like to know what "procedure" you will be using.
I've never heard of a succesfull tubeless conversion on rims without a tubeless type bead area (safety bead).
Sorry for not doing a better update on my Tubeless attempt. I used a 3M
Marine sealer for the spoke nipples and enlarged the valve stem hole for a tubeless valve stem. It would not hold air.
I'm not sure of the reason. I think the tubeless Distanzia I used would not butt up close enough to the stock 17" wheel bead to form a seal. Could not air it up ... or .... some how I missed something (quite possible) and didn't seal the wheel good enough??
The very best option on this, IMHO, is to send your DR650 wheel to Woody's Wheel Works and let him seal it up right to make it a tubeless affair.
But here is my worry:
Lets say you get a flat on the road. You plug the hole ... but lets say the bead has broken (this typically won't happen on a real tubeless rim, but the stock DR rim is NOT a tubeless rim) So if the bead is broken ... how do you re-inflate on the side of the road with CO-2 or hand pump?
Woody may recommend you buy a NEW WHEEL that will work tubeless, but that could limit tire choice. So some things to think over.
Anyway, just my thoughts. Not many have done this on a DR650 that I know of. I hope you will follow up with any info you find on this and do a better job than I did documenting.
All the best!
There are few options to choose here:
One is to service your calipers, clean/polish pistons well, bleed all fluid & air out of system. Add New fluid. Next, clean up rotors with Steel Wool or light sanding, then wipe off with Brake Clean. Clean rotors every month or so.
I had been using less expensive EBC pads on my DR650 for a couple years. Braking force seemed to get worse as they wore down. I swapped in an old pair on OEM Nissin pads ... and WOW! Braking was up by about 20%! I believe EBC pads glaze and bite is reduced over time/use.
I've since gone back to Nissin pads. Deals can be found on them if you dig around the net. Way better performance in my experience. Rear brake, EBC seems to work OK. I don't want a really over sensitive rear brake, so the Red EBC pads out back are OK for now ... and they last well.
Next option UP is to go with a bigger front Rotor. EBC make one and probably others like: Braking, Galfer and Nissin and various Chinese options on EBay. Most provide an adapter ... so pretty much plug and play.
Should make BIG improvement in braking power up front.
I would start with the cheap things and work your way up.
I know where you're coming from carrying all the weight on a RTW ride. Lots of extra weight really points out the weakness of standard braking.
Mongolia on a DR!! How did that go?
Good luck with your book!
It will start without the enricher from cold, meaning cold motor not ran that day.
It starts beautifully, idles smooth too.
I taped the airbox 3/4 closed up couple days ago and finally got around to riding it a bit ago (im at work) and that made it worse, twist the throttle a bit fast and it boggs down. I cleaned the little elbow fiter and same thing. again, plugs were a little on the whitish-greyish side s I dunno. exhaust smells like a damn lawn mower.
I have a rattle somewhere I cant diagnose when I hit some bumps almost a squeal kinda tin sounding. I had some barkbuster knockoffs but they wouldnt work and one of the threaded stoppers inside the handlebars is missing so need to change them out, they are older purple bars on a yellow bike:huh when it gets a bit colder im gonna need some wind deflectors.
stupid kickstand hits the swingarm also, nice little groove there.
your bike is definitely running too rich. which is why it runs even worse when taping up the airbox - that only makes things richer. i don't know much about the stock carbie, but i would try lowering the main needle or leaning out the mixture screw...
Well there is always the 320mm kit.
What exactly are your 'decent pads'? The oem Suzuki pads are good, some of the aftermarket stuff is not so good. The best I have run across are EBC MXS. They are not listed for the DR but are the same as 07 Yamaha WR450 which is listed. I bought some for my WR and noticed that both bikes use the same model Nissin caliper. So I tried them, and wow, very noticable difference.
Is there any posssibility that the pads you have have been overheated and glazed? If so pull the pads out and deglaze them by rubbing in a figure 8 motion on a piece of #180 sand paper on a flat surface. Give the disc a light sanding also.
I have tried those red EBC kelvar pads also, even new they have 20% less power than the oem stuff.
As doug s. says, the fact that it will start from cold with no enrichment and the fact that taping up the airbox makes things worse both point to a rich condition. The fact that there is no change in the severity of the condition when the bike warms up points to a severe rich condition. There are a number of things that can be responsible for a rich condition in the 1/16-1/4 throttle opening range (this range corresponds to cruise). They are:
Incorrect needle shape (example: DynoJet needle).
Emulsion tube worn out due to worn out slide guide.
Fuel level to high due to too little float height, faulty float needle, or faulty needle seat o-ring.
Clipped slide spring.
Sticking cold start enrichment plunger, due to a missing return spring or a kinked/otherwise binding cable.
Jet needle too high (i.e clip too low)..
Pilot jet too large.
Main jet too large.
If you went from a wide open air box (top) to 3/4 closed, that is a huge swing at the air intake with the duct tape. But at least you know what rich feels like now.
My thoughts originally were that you had a lean surge going on when cruising and accelerating, which is why I suggested taping the opening a little.
From your comments about the enricher I would agree with Doug that you are probably rich most everywhere now.
Before tearing into the carb (which may be inevitable) I would try turning the pilot screw in a little to lean out the idle circuit a little and removing about half the tape you put on. Then see what it does.
Remember the tape is only a quick fix to maybe get you in the ball park and help determine if it's lean or rich-- not a solution.
Also did you note the location of the carb VENT filter (not gas) . It should not be hanging down in the airbox, but off to the side a little or the intake pulses in the airbox can mess with the carb slide and cause a surge.
I could be wrong, but I think he was saying that it would start easily from cold before he taped the airbox. Plus, so little air is required at idle, I doubt taping the airbox would affect starting.
Your correct. I hope I am not confusing the issue.
My thoughts were (now that we know it starts without the enricher) that there are possibly two issues going on.
1) pilot screw opened too much (so no enricher needed to start).
2) And what I thought was originally a lean issue on the needle and or main (causing surging), is now a rich condition because of the excess tape.
That is why I suggested backing off the tape and turning the pilot screw in.
Probably too many opinions now --- I will bow out to avoid confusing the issue.
If everything is up to scratch, a bigger disc is what's needed like others said. Its on my to do list. One other thing I did in addtion to a braided line was fit a Brembo master cylinder. Its got a smaller bore, so needs a bit more travel for the same force. With the braided line compensating, its a more progressive and controllable action, but ultimately, no more powerfull.
I had considered that, except that he also stated that without the tape, there was no difference in severity when the bike warmed up. Normally if the mixture was lean, matters would improve as the engine warmed up, and he said they didn't. Also consider that it takes a massive change to go from a lean surge to a rich surge. After all, the mixture has to be way, way rich to produce a symptom, whereas it only has to be a little lean (comparatively). To illustrate, the ideal CO% is ~3-5. Lean symptoms will begin to manifest around 2%, whereas rich symptoms won't until somewhere around the 12-13% mark.
For the front brake I was referring to the EBC sintered pads. Pretty much their best pad. They are well below the performance of the OEM Nissin pads.
Both are rated HH ... the Nissin is worlds better in my experience, but do wear quickly if used hard.
The red EBC Kevlar ones I use in the rear brake. They are fine for me, don't need a lot of power there ... and can still lock up easy enough. I tend to drag the rear brake, so the hard wearing Red Kevlar ones seem pretty good. YMMV.