the DR650 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.

  1. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

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    :nod The DR is usually happy with the stock 42.5 pilot.

    Don't forget #15 and 16:

    http://www.bikebandit.com/2004-suzuki-dr650se/o/m5873#sch502315
  2. Klay

    Klay dreaming adventurer

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    What weight fork oil is appropriate for the stock fork set-up? My dealer told me 5 weight, but the manual says 10 weight. :scratch
  3. smilin jack

    smilin jack Grandpa Adventurer

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    Coming home from work the DR backfired, sputtered and died. I coasted to a wide spot in the ditch and checked it over for anything obvious.

    Fuel tank 1/4 full (still had about 30 miles to reserve). Added 1 gallon from extra fuel can.

    Put stock petcock on Prime.

    Bike fired up, so saddled up and waited for a gap in the busy traffic.

    Hit first gear, turned the handlebars for my "line" up the dirt bank to the 4 lane highway and the bike died.

    It wouldn't start again... the headlight and neutral light were dim. They got bright when the kill switch was pressed but still wouldn't start. The wires coming out of the stitches (kill, starter, front brake light) were getting warm. Seems there's a small short somewhere.

    Edit: Called fellow advrider, fbritt5 for a rescue ride home. Glad it wasn't raining. Thanks for the rescue ride Frank.

    Spent Saturday rebuilding the short switch harness for the kill switch etc.

    Opened up the sheath and found factory splices with burned tape. Got out the soldering iron and applied solder to the crimped connections. Taped the two splices and put on the sheath with another over the top of that.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    Put the short harness back on the bike and it fired up for a while then it died again. Same thing, headlight weak but gets bright when the kill switch is pressed and the harness gets warm.

    Guess there's more wire digging to find the problem. Any ideas of where to look? I did put on a new front knobby (Shinko 244) a few days ago before the engine trouble started.

    Dave
  4. Sierra Thumper

    Sierra Thumper Been here awhile

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    Keep the bike plugged into a battery tender when not riding it, and you'll get 8+ years out of a 60 dollar agm battery easily. I do it regularly with Wal-mart batteries :D They are manufactured by Johnson Controls tho, who makes good batteries :thumb
  5. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

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    So, could you post Frank's number? :evil

    With our higher mileage bikes, there might be a 'rub-thru' anywhere in the wiring harness. :uhoh Suspect any place the zip ties are very tight.

    Some time ago an inmate mentioned finding loose crimp connectors inside the wiring harness tape. IIRC, they even changed colors at the splice.
  6. badweatherbiker

    badweatherbiker Been here awhile

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    Quote:
    <table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" width="100%"><tbody><tr><td class="dg-bbcode dg-bbcode-quote"> Originally Posted by Kommando [​IMG]
    45 is a bigger pilot. Stock is 42.5 and it works ok for me, stock exhaust or FMF, opened or closed airbox.
    </td></tr></tbody></table>
    :nod The DR is usually happy with the stock 42.5 pilot.

    Quote:
    <table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" width="100%"><tbody><tr><td class="dg-bbcode dg-bbcode-quote"> Since you already have everything out and apart, I'd replace any suspect rubber parts like O-rings. O-rings are cheap. </td></tr></tbody></table>
    Don't forget #15 and 16:

    http://www.bikebandit.com/2004-suzuk...5873#sch502315

    Cleaned it all up real good and reassembled it and moved the needle down 1 mark, mine was on the 4th and has no plastic washer. just the half moon aluminum washer on top of the clip.
    I am almost finished reassembling everything else and I'll try it tommorrow to see if it helps.
    I noticed my front and rear sprockets both have play in them- as in side to side so thats likely where all the vibes are coming from???
  7. procycle

    procycle Long timer

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    10 weight!
    Don't let that dealer work on your bike :huh
  8. Klay

    Klay dreaming adventurer

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    Thank you. Glad I checked the manual. I think the problem is with a certain individual at the dealer.
  9. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

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    Ok, the next thing you need to do is put your finger at the red arrow in the pic below. It's on the rear axle, left side. Push the sprocket left and right, feeling for movement.

    [​IMG]

    If there's any wiggle at the seal, you need to stop riding the bike, before this happens.

    Cush hub bearing:

    [​IMG]

    Swingarm:

    [​IMG]

    Does your chain look anything like these pics?

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
  10. smilin jack

    smilin jack Grandpa Adventurer

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    My 2006 DR turned over 49K miles last week. Yes, the wires do change colors at the crimped connections inside the wiring harness. Will follow the wires tomorrow, checking for rubbed spots etc. The DMM should help track any bad spots.

    Franks trailer was his snow machine hauler... just clearing up details.

    Found this in my advrider archives:

    Dave

    Ignition wires broken

    Originally Posted by Billy_Goat
    I'd like to share a bizarre problem I had with my 2003 DR650SE.

    When I turned the bars all the way to the left the engine would die. It would crank over but not start, lights and everything else worked too.

    After confirming that it wasn't the choke or throttle cables, I began checking all the electrical connectors. All the connectors seemed fine so I started messing with the harness and found that when I wiggled the harness the engine would die regardless of what position the bars were in. I checked all the connectors over and over to no avail, so I unwrapped the harness from the speedo to the air box. I found NO damaged wires at all, none. I would start the bike and if I wiggled the wires it would die, very frustrating to say the least. I then separated all the non-essential wires, i.e. lights, horn, etc from the critical wires. I was at my wits end and about to set the bike on fire when it dawned on me that I should check the wires for continuity. So I used the sharp probe tips of my ammeter to check the resistance in the wires and found one wire that would lose continuity if shaken.

    It was orange w/black stripe, critical for the ignition.

    The wire had no visible damage at all. I soldered in a replacement and haven't had a problem since.

    Cliff notes:
    Had intermittent electrical problem causing bike to die.
    Toned out wires inside harness and found a bad wire. Orange w/black stripe
    Soldered in replacement.

    Advice:
    Check the tension of the harness when bars are at full left.
    If it's too tight, free it up a little.
  11. TinkerinWstuff

    TinkerinWstuff Take it apart

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    you can run 5, you just have to drop Intiminators down there first. :evil
  12. Klay

    Klay dreaming adventurer

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    I'm happy with the stock set-up with my milder riding style, so I don't think I'll go that route. I'd better change the fork oil, though, it's been 33,000 miles and over ten years.
  13. SGrider

    SGrider 376 miles to Chicago

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    How the hell do you get a fork seal to last that long? :eek1
  14. Klay

    Klay dreaming adventurer

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    I use the DR650 as a lightweight touring bike...no real gnarly off-road and not a lot of grit or mud ever applied. They should last that long when not subjected to rough service.
  15. Lil' Steve

    Lil' Steve PussyWagon™ Chauffer

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    Havent installed it yet but it measures only 2mm more in depth (height and width are the same) than the dead stock Yuasa YTX9-BS on my bench. Should drop right in but if it doesnt I'll be sure and let everyone know.
  16. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

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    Dang, that's the post I was remembering. You have quite an archive. :nod

    I took this pic at the time. IIRC, the DR wiring diagram doesn't show an orange/black (left side, by the seat bolt).

    [​IMG]
  17. TinkerinWstuff

    TinkerinWstuff Take it apart

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    If you ever decide you're tired of the the forks folding up like cheap lawn furniture, they are worth a try. Just drop in and no permanent modifications. Can always resell them.
  18. RichBeBe

    RichBeBe All Hail Seitan!!!

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    Put mine in today bolts right on, no need to do anything different. I thought I might have had to put a washer under the bracket to shim it up. But with only 2mm it is a direct fit.

    Going to take it for a ride to the beach to check out this chick Sandy that is coming to visit.
  19. badweatherbiker

    badweatherbiker Been here awhile

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    geez... now it wont even idle.....
  20. badweatherbiker

    badweatherbiker Been here awhile

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    yep..... thats the rear wobble I have...
    only thing is I have no other way to get to work