the DR650 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.

  1. TRAVELGUY

    TRAVELGUY Old Traveler

    Joined:
    May 20, 2008
    Oddometer:
    728
    Location:
    Georgetown, In / Costa Rica
    I think you have the backwards? Shorter links should raise the seat height, longer links will lower the seat height.

    TravelGuy

    If the lowering link holes are closer together than the ones you removed, the bike is now lower in the rear.
    Period.
    UNLESS, you increased the preload on the shock and raised the back end up.
    Did you change anything else when you installed the links?[/QUOTE]
  2. motolab

    motolab Long timer

    Joined:
    Feb 16, 2006
    Oddometer:
    2,915
    Best to take it apart and clean.

    Regards,

    Derek
  3. NordieBoy

    NordieBoy Armature speller

    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2006
    Oddometer:
    7,159
    Location:
    Kiwiland
    Yes, it does work fine.

    But the pumpers are even better.
  4. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2009
    Oddometer:
    7,984
    Location:
    SE Denver-ish
    Ding, the light goes on. TravelGuy nailed it. :nod I knew if we talked long enough, someone would figure it out. :freaky

    Heirhead:

    Shorter links won't work in the DR, there will be interference at the red circle. (BergDonk's photo) Look at your bike, good chance yours is hitting.
    To lower the bike, you want longer arms.

    BergDonk said this in the linked post:
    "And results in about 2 mm clearance, although not real obvious in the pic. The shock will extend further too when it tops out, about 2 mm according to Frank, so a bit of clearance is good. It's also why shorter link arms aren't really a solution to getting the ride height up. "

    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=14781496&postcount=54

    [​IMG]
  5. Chill

    Chill Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 30, 2012
    Oddometer:
    335
    Location:
    QLD Australia
    I fitted one of these and just had to file off the top of the "stop" I can see from the photos that the OP has also done this. It only hits at full throttle.

    Could you expand on your pumper carb comments, why you were not impressed? I'm still toying with the idea so I'm just curious.
  6. procycle

    procycle Long timer

    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2007
    Oddometer:
    2,539
    Location:
    Center of the DR650 universe
    Here's a link
    http://drriders.com/topic4964.html
  7. Adv Grifter

    Adv Grifter on the road o'dreams

    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2010
    Oddometer:
    6,128
    Location:
    Passing ADV Stalkers in California
    I did the same thing. I first used a tiny telescoping magnet. That got a bit of it out ... then put a dab of grease on the end and got a few more chunks from inside.
    And finally, squirted some oil down in there. I figure if whatever is in there is coated in oil ... maybe it won't do much damage? :lol3 Anyway, fired her up ... and never thought about it again. That was about 25,000 miles back.

    Now ... when I "fool" with spark plugs I first use high pressure air (or a good wash) to blow out all the grit and sand that settles down around the plug wells. Then, when you pull the plug ... go slow and LOOK for crud around there, try to get it out or just don't disturb it. Put in your new plugs and be done ... and DON't over tighten them! :D
  8. joefromsf

    joefromsf Dark Happens

    Joined:
    Apr 28, 2005
    Oddometer:
    1,602
    Location:
    San Francisco
    For on the road access I keep a drinking straw in my toolkit for blowing out the dirt and crud before removing spark plug. Also poke around with something to break up mud and dirt clumps. Be sure to close your eyes while doing blowing it out. DAMHIK. :lol3
  9. Chill

    Chill Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 30, 2012
    Oddometer:
    335
    Location:
    QLD Australia
    Same. I tend to blow it out with a can of compressed air, then loosen the plug half a turn and blow again, gets loads more out.
  10. heirhead

    heirhead Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2009
    Oddometer:
    588
    Location:
    On the water in SoCal
    Hello,

    13 tooth was a two holer and came with retainer, Yamaha. Just wanted to make sure it was right, THANKS!!!
    Lowering links were from ProCycle and supposed to make the bike 1" lower. When I put them on I also put on Corbin seat which is wider. Bike felt way taller. Put Gel seat on and bike still felt tall. Will call Pro Cycle in am to get Dim. on holes. Then will see about RED CIRCLE!! If the links need to be longer to lower the circle maybe will not come into play.

    Thanks again guys for the great info.

    Heirhead
  11. Magnum Noel

    Magnum Noel Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 19, 2010
    Oddometer:
    198
    Location:
    Wellington NZ
    "Tape a piece of tubing to your vacuum and suck it out."

    Hey what a brillient idea:clap
  12. Taikimoto

    Taikimoto wheresthatgo?

    Joined:
    Nov 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    47
    Location:
    Weaverville, NC
    I have the procycle brake light / license plate kit and was wondering if anyone else has had problems with the brake light element going on in the brake bulb. The running light element is fine, but the brake light element burns out often, is it a wiring issue or just crappy bulbs? I replace it with the stock # bulbs.
  13. Skidmarkart

    Skidmarkart Dirty Middle Age Man

    Joined:
    Sep 24, 2012
    Oddometer:
    228
    Location:
    Durham NC, The Old Durty
    I am going to pull my BST40 carb and clean it, and hopefully do some mild mods to make it work a little better. Is the Procycle kit the way to go? I think I have seen a couple of others (like Moose) but they seem to be more tilted toward a stock rebuild or freshen-up.

    TIA for any info.
  14. disconnected

    disconnected rider

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2006
    Oddometer:
    7,689
    Location:
    Pittsburgh, South Hills
    howdy. can you guys recomend a good voltmeter.I have seen a bunch, but they all look the same on the internet. I Want to run my heated gloves and vest, but need to monitor and switch off/on accordingly.

    Thanks,


    Greg
  15. acap650

    acap650 acap650

    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2006
    Oddometer:
    767
    Location:
    Western PA
    I've been looking at this one for the same reason. http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=692098
    Waterproof but not very bright so needs to be mounted in shaded area. I just ordered one and plan to mount it on top of indicator light pod where it will be somewhat shaded by headlight fairing. Will post pic when I get it.
    Yo Greg, where you at? I'm in Verona.
  16. victor441

    victor441 Long timer

    Joined:
    Jul 27, 2009
    Oddometer:
    1,071
    Location:
    Sonoma, Calif.
    I like the LED type, it gives plenty of info, am running this one and especially like that it dims to half brightness when it is in a steady state for a minute or so but goes to full brightness if there is a change...$28

    [​IMG]
  17. Emmbeedee

    Emmbeedee Procrastinators

    Joined:
    Mar 19, 2008
    Oddometer:
    10,118
    Location:
    Near Ottawa, ON, Canada
    Good advice but if you don't have the luxury of an air hose or good wash, it helps if you loosen the spark plug a few turns then turn the engine over with the starter for 20 seconds or so. The air leaking around the spark plug helps to dislodge and blow away sand and other harmful particles.

    Repeating the process a couple of times as you take the plugs out is even better.
  18. acap650

    acap650 acap650

    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2006
    Oddometer:
    767
    Location:
    Western PA
    Not sure if this is relevant but I installed the Procycle engine mounted choke for the BST40 and found the engine would not idle after warm-up with choke off. Replaced the brass plunger with the stock one and stalling problem was solved but the knob would not stay out for starting. About 90% of the time it would pop in as soon as the starter cranked. It requires three hands to hold it out while pressing the starter and squeezing the clutch so I took it apart and replaced the spring with the stock spring (must be slightly weaker) and now it pops in about 10% of the time. The detent notch is just too shallow. If it works like the BST choke, you might try a similar approach - some hardware stores have an assortment of compression springs in various sizes.
  19. sandwash

    sandwash Long timer

    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2007
    Oddometer:
    1,391
    Location:
    Flagstaff Az
    I just use a small screw driver and a length of tubing to break the junk up and than blow the crap out of the well(s).Loosen the plug couple of turns and and repeat.
  20. JagLite

    JagLite Long timer

    Joined:
    Jun 17, 2010
    Oddometer:
    1,526
    Location:
    Anchorage Alaska
    [/QUOTE]

    Hah! :rofl
    That should teach me to reply from work.... :cry
    My brain doesn't work very well when I am not looking at the problem.
    I should have said that if the link holes are closer or farther apart the ride height WILL change up or down.
    Or something like that maybe.

    I should know that, having taken mine off and on several times and have raised and lowered my bike.
    Thanks for being kind and tactful Travelguy! :clap

    Hey! it was a Monday after all.... :lol3