the DR650 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.

  1. Mongle

    Mongle Knuckle dragger

    Joined:
    Dec 4, 2009
    Oddometer:
    3,522
    Location:
    North Carolina Y'all
    Don't know if you have seen this posting yet; great info!

    Carb bible for the DR.
    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=347184


    And I believe beer drinking is in the instrucions in that post! :freaky
  2. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2009
    Oddometer:
    7,975
    Location:
    SE Denver-ish
    I'm going to post this before I accidently delete it, but I have more to add. :1drink
    Ok, I'm done. :freaky

    Please fill out your profile, state or country, it will help us figure out your riding conditions.
    Like: what altitudes do you ride at? :scratch

    Mongle asked: 'The right one or the left one?' Do you have a 'left one', or is it a brass plug (a mirror will be needed if it's still stock with a flush plug).

    [​IMG]

    Jessepitt did this awesome photo essay: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=18727385&postcount=71
    Including pics of the brass plug, this is one of them.

    [​IMG]

    Stick around, someone will come up with the info to fixit.
    The RED is for those hard of reading. :deal

    An easy way to tell if someone has been in the carb (which I doubt, too low mileage), is to look at the carb screws. A stock carb will have JIS screws (phillips look-a-likes). If you have allen heads (two on the top and two on the float bowl, you'll need a mirror), someone has been in the carb. The stock JIS screws are very tight, if your bit doesn't fit tight, you will strip them out. An impact wrench will help (one of those you hit with a hammer, not one with 6 hp and running on 175 pounds of air). :D

    Just to the left of the petcock vacuum is an allen head screw w/washer; not stock. Before you start, buy 4 replacement allen head screws at any good hardware store, the carb screws are 5 x 14 mm. Buy 4, two top, two bottom

    [​IMG]

    With mileage that poor and running lean; replace the pilot (fixes running better with the choke on), and these two o-rings (fixes your terrible mileage). They're metric and I'd suggest getting them from Zuki, Derek probably has them too.

    Pilot jet itty-bitty orifice.

    [​IMG]

    Leaky o-rings, murdered by ethanol. A light coat of grease will help the float assembly slip back into place.

    [​IMG]

    :nod :thumb

    :rofl

    None of my bikes have ever seen a dyno. :2cry

    Drain the old fuel, add something like Sea Foam to help clean where you can't see. This is normally the first step, but it sounds like the pilot is pretty much plugged.

    You said that you just want to ride, clean the carb, replace the pilot jet, two o-rings and put it back together stock. There are many of us happy with the stock stuff. If you get a lean surge, we'll talk about that later.

    As JagLite said, "Ain't necessarily true."

    Pilot jet. :nod

    Check the filter while you're in there. The rest of the story: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=17527454&postcount=52

    [​IMG]
    If you're good with tools, yer golden. If not, all bets are off. :evil

    You don't have to read the whole thing, but there are lotsa pritty pictures, and you will learn lots. OBTW: Mongle :wave is withholding information; many of the pics in the link are KTM BST-40. Just be aware there are differences, yours won't be identical.

    :freaky
  3. Chill

    Chill Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 30, 2012
    Oddometer:
    335
    Location:
    QLD Australia
    Good info. Nice post. My carb is actually running fine but I DO like the sound of drinking beer and inhaling carb cleaner fumes and seeing things.
  4. Mongle

    Mongle Knuckle dragger

    Joined:
    Dec 4, 2009
    Oddometer:
    3,522
    Location:
    North Carolina Y'all
    ER70S, great clarification! I actually forgot the bible was ktm, good catch!

    Do you hire out for "organizing"? :D


    SKIDMARKART- you ever make it toward charlotte? If you dont have any luck hit me up and we might be able to make something happen!
  5. heirhead

    heirhead Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2009
    Oddometer:
    587
    Location:
    On the water in SoCal
    Hello,

    Back to the lowering links. Just wanted to say Thanks to the responders. Mucho gracias.
    I called ProCycle this am. and measured my links compared to the ones they sold me. Theres indeed is longer.
    I had that backwards in my post. The difference is 1/4 of an inch longer and they told me it lowered bike by 1"
    Said it did not and they asked if I lowered forks also. Forks were already lowered 3/4 of an inch so no. They said the 1" is a combo of the links 1/4 of an inch AND front forks lowered. Guess I'll lower front forks more or get 2" links. They do not sell them as I was told that 1" is all anybody needs. Used to 5'9" but now must be shorter as I want bike lower still. Am on the right track, will have it dialed in soon. The Bergdonk RED CIRCLE is fine as the space gets bigger when lowering. I THINK!!!

    Thanks again for your help,

    Heirhead
  6. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2009
    Oddometer:
    7,975
    Location:
    SE Denver-ish
    Oh, hell yeah; a place for everything and everything in its place. Send money and I'll let you in on everything I've learned. :nod

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Thanks for the follow-up, inquiring minds want to know. :nod I used to be 5'10" and lower would be better for me too. Let us know about the 'red circle'. I also hope it gets bigger with longer links.
  7. procycle

    procycle Long timer

    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2007
    Oddometer:
    2,536
    Location:
    Center of the DR650 universe
    I don't think you fully understood. The 1/4" longer links lower the rear suspension by one inch. Only the rear end of the bike is lowered. You can't lower the whole bike with links in the rear suspension. Since you sit near the middle of the bike the seat height will not change by the full amount. If you lower the front an equal amount to the rear then the seat height will also be lowered by the same amount.

    Watch out for bottoming problems with the 2" lowering links. That's why we don't sell them.
  8. canoli

    canoli human

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2008
    Oddometer:
    1,841
    Location:
    Not from round these parts.
    Two questions for the collective:
    1) I have about 5L of gas left in the safari tank. Is it normal to be on reserve already?

    [​IMG]

    2) If I try to rotate the carb elbow to the 9 o-clock position to try and get all the fuel out of the tank I feel like it is going to snap off. What are my options if this thing wont budge? I dont have enough talent or skill to drill it out and fit a new inlet...nor do I actually own a bench vice . Should I just give it a go with a vice grip and if I break it, buy a new carb (would rather not)? Is there a fuel pump or vacuum that I can hook up?

    Thanks,
    Canoli
  9. TRAVELGUY

    TRAVELGUY Old Traveler

    Joined:
    May 20, 2008
    Oddometer:
    728
    Location:
    Georgetown, In / Costa Rica
    My Safari goes totally dry on reserve. Try blowing into your cap vent line and see if that clears a vapor lock in your gas line.

    Travelguy


  10. procycle

    procycle Long timer

    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2007
    Oddometer:
    2,536
    Location:
    Center of the DR650 universe
    The point where you go on reserve is determined by how tall the pipe coming out of the top of the petcock is. If you want less reserve fuel you can cut the pipe shorter. Changing the angle of the carb inlet won't affect when it goes on reserve.
  11. Adv Grifter

    Adv Grifter on the road o'dreams

    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2010
    Oddometer:
    6,128
    Location:
    Passing ADV Stalkers in California
    5L liters of reserve on a tank that size is just about right, IMHO. I'd go with it, be happy!
    The important thing is how much of your reserve can you use. I would strap on a 5 liter fuel jug and run out your reserve ... just so you know your TRUE range.
    Don't worry about rotating the Elbow. Leave it. No drilling. Main thing is to know just how far you can go on your reserve. With the IMS, about 2 liters are left once reserve runs out. You can only use that last bit of fuel if you tip the bike over. Good luck! Enjoy!
  12. Paddle007

    Paddle007 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 30, 2008
    Oddometer:
    303
    Location:
    S.E. Louisiana
    Wow. Post 71,001 Great thread. Thanks for all the info and inspiration. My commuter and weekend warrior.
    [​IMG]
  13. Skidmarkart

    Skidmarkart Dirty Middle Age Man

    Joined:
    Sep 24, 2012
    Oddometer:
    228
    Location:
    Durham NC, The Old Durty
    Wow, thanks for the awesome write-ups everyone. I feel inspired. Hell, I feel downright confident, and I haven't even had a beer yet.

    ER70S-2 - Wow, I feel like I am ready to tackle this job. Well, as soon as I get a six-pack I will be.

    I guess I am pretty handy with tools, I used to rebuild camera and lenses, and work with computers and servers daily.

    A "stock rebuild" kit is on the way from Moose Racing. I didn't want to get in there and find something like gasket, jet, etc that would leave me bike-less while I wait for parts. If it gets here before the weekend, I'll be getting dirty down in the garage with some carb work.

    Mongel - I get down to Charlotte occasionally, not as much as I used to before I had kids, but I do a lot of things occasionally now days.

    Same to you, if you are ever in Durham, I'd be happy to show all the swell bars! :1drink
  14. MikeyP

    MikeyP Adventurer

    Joined:
    Apr 13, 2012
    Oddometer:
    21
    Location:
    San Francisco

    Nice looking setup! What happened to the windscreen on your lynx fairing? I've gotten much better at remembering to lower mine all the way down when going offroad after smashing it on a tricky downhill, along with my handguard plastic.
  15. procycle

    procycle Long timer

    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2007
    Oddometer:
    2,536
    Location:
    Center of the DR650 universe
    The Moose kit does not include the orings for the float assembly or the oring for the mixture screw.
    It's pretty likely that your mixture screw oring is OK but almost certain that the float assembly orings will be toast.
  16. Rusty Rocket

    Rusty Rocket Life behind "Bars"

    Joined:
    Dec 22, 2005
    Oddometer:
    10,026
    Location:
    Trying to leave CT
    I had a set of the float o-rings go bad after 18 months. They cost quite a bit of $$ from Suzuki. Any other sources? How about from KTM or anothe manufacturer that uses that carb?
  17. GaThumper

    GaThumper Road Less Traveled

    Joined:
    Jun 29, 2006
    Oddometer:
    514
    Location:
    Thumpin' in North GA - headin' for the Smokys
  18. Mongle

    Mongle Knuckle dragger

    Joined:
    Dec 4, 2009
    Oddometer:
    3,522
    Location:
    North Carolina Y'all
    Ok, I'm not usually envious of other guy's "toys" ...that thing is pretty trick! :clap

    Mine looks like it has been used as a rodeo barell!
  19. MikeyP

    MikeyP Adventurer

    Joined:
    Apr 13, 2012
    Oddometer:
    21
    Location:
    San Francisco

    Derek does probably carry those. I've purchased a bunch of BST40 parts from him and found his prices reasonable, shipping quick & fair. I've also spent some time on the phone with Derek and found his advice very helpful.
  20. aardschok

    aardschok Fallout Rider

    Joined:
    Jan 28, 2007
    Oddometer:
    566
    Location:
    State of Apathy
    I had the guys in Fabrication make some brackets and the guys in electrical class wire up these Vision x Solstice LED's. The lights work great at dusk. Can only work better at night.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]