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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.
Do you have a stock Suzuki shock on the rear and have you done the factory lowering option? It's good for 1-1/2".
Found a pic. If your shock has two lower bolt positions and the bolt is in the lower hole like this, you're at the stock height. If you put the bolt in the upper hole, the rear suspension will be 1-1/2" lower. Let us know, as there's another step, your spring seat mounting position.
If you can use all the gas on reserve, you're good. If there's much fuel left when the bike quits, then you might have to decide if you want to 'force' the carb elbow to turn or not.
Thanks for all who responded. The shock is stock but have stiffer spring on it due to my fat ass!!
The shock has been lowered already. The RED CIRCLE is fine.
ProCycle, understood OK, just will have to lower forks more to see if that is enough.
Now what about that shock spring seat height???
I must be really short!!
lol...yep you must be a shorty You're gonna have a flat-tracker when you get done lowering
Did you lower the shock bolt or was it done by someone else? Maybe the shock spring seat height has already been taken care of. Ride the bike, if the tire isn't hitting the fender, you should be fine. I don't have a way to show or explain how it's done. It's in the service manual if you have access to one.
Edit: I found a photo, posted it and an explanation on 11-9-2012.
Is that the giant loop Buck n roll tank bag? Does it work ok, ie stay up on the sides of the tank above your knees ?
I have looked at pics of these but never seen one on a DR. I have a Safari tank and it looked like the bars would hit it on full lock. That headlight looks awesome, although ive read comments on it causing buffeting/turbulence ?>
Shock lowered by PO. Riding out to desert this weekend, will test it out.
i have an IMS tank w/ their petcock and stock carb. i did not rotate my inlet tube and thus have a loop in my fuel line. i've run my bike bone dry in the tank. i wondered if the loop would affect things at the end of fuel and it did not.
Jeff at ProCycle is modest and didn't mention that they carry a stock BST carb rebuild kit in addition to their jet kit.
They are very helpful and will probably sell you parts if you don't need the full rebuild kit.
I like to check with PC before I start searching for bits here and there.
Hey guys, Anyone have experience with Shinko 244s? im confused about the sizes. They offer a 5.10-17 rated at 94mph but the front is offered in a 2.75-21 at 94 mph or a 3.00-21 at 75 mph.
What are the right sizes? I rarely go over 94 mph but 75 is occasional. The 244s have mostly good reviews and I think im going to try them. Its ether those or the 700s. The sizing and speed rating is screwing with me
I agree, until he tries to ride the tank dry, he won't know. It seems some aftermarket tanks, like yours, work fine. Others get the air bubble in the uphill loop and can't use all the fuel in the tank.
I'm running the 244s right now: a 3:00-21 on the front and a 5:10-17 on the rear. Since the DR is 'portly' and I occassionaly ride a little sand, I want the extra floatation (if it even matters). I'm thinking the 2:75 would knife in easier and I don't like that concept.
Unless I buy another FJR, I'm not going to worry about speed. Tires are rated at some 'big' safety factor and I'm ok with that. The wind buffeting at those speeds will slow ME down a long time before the tire is a problem. IMO
I run full off-road knobbies on the road at 70mph for extended periods and have never had an issue. Just remember to run the recommended factory pressure in them......NOT low off-road pressures. I run 22psi on and off road with no traction or handling issues whatsoever
The speed ratings are VERY extreme......unless you run way beyond the max for literally hours upon hours (which is how they test them) you'll be fine with any decent tire.......especially on a low power dual sport. I'm MUCH more careful of tire choices on my turbo zx14 or hayabusa running in the upper triple digits tho. THATS when you take your tire pressures, wear, and ratings seriously
Dang - I actually checked on Procycle's site first, but I didn't see a stock rebuild kit.
I did contact ProCycle about the 2 o-rings on the float mechanism. At that time he told me he did not have them separately. That was 2 years ago and I did neglect to ask when they went bad again. Maybe they are available now, I'll have to ask. Probably will need them again soon.
if any of you want us to pull a couple of orings out of an already made up kit. Please find some other items you need to add to the order. Make it worth the extra time and effort it costs us. Shipping out only a couple of orings is a money loosing process for us. Not to mention setting aside a broken up carb repair kit and making sure replacement orings get back into it. We don't just have orings sitting in a bin on a shelf. We order in all the kit parts and package them up into complete kits and put the kits in a bin on a shelf waiting to ship out.
Not criticizing Jeff: You should probably not tear open kits to do this. I worked at a Suzuki dealer that broke spoke kits apart to do the very same thing. Problem was the same spokes always broke so 3/4's of the kit were useless. A great big box of odd spokes exists to this day, and I haven't worked there since 1996.
I did some digging around before buying the o-rings from the dealer. I researched the best mat'l to resist gasoline and alcohol. I measured the o-rings and found a supply house that had the size and mat'l I wanted. Price was very favorable per o-ring. The problem was they only sold packages of 100 per size. Thought about buying and offering them for sale to the masses, but decided it wasn't worth the trouble. Kind of like the headlite protectors I make for friends. Not worth trying to "break even" selling them.
this reminds me of a job i had years ago, as purchasing mgr for callaway advanced technology, (mfr of the callaway corvette, if that rings a bell). i was trying to source viton o-rings for our aston martin group c racing engine contract. i needed about 250 o-rings of a certain size to keep our stock level to certain requirements. when trying to purchase, i discovered it would cost ~$1500 to buy the 250 o-rings, but it only cost ~$300 to buy 1000 of them - less human handling.
Hell, your carb rebuild kit really isn't all that expensive, and I'm guessing there's no harm in dropping <$50 every few years to keep things running fresh.