the DR650 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.

  1. DowDuer

    DowDuer !rn00b-aK

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2010
    Oddometer:
    216
    Location:
    Tehama Co. California, gateway to Hwy 36!
    I used a few zip ties to secure the kickstand safety switch and then rode 70 miles with no problems so I believe this might be it. I will remove the switch and see if the problem reoccurs when the weather dries out.

    My bike seldom sits for more than a couple days as I do not own a car. :D


  2. jack82

    jack82 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    May 12, 2006
    Oddometer:
    282
    Location:
    Lakes Entrance......VIC
    Hi fellas........I'm thinking about getting a DR for a bit of offroad touring.I have a Gas Gas EC300 and an XR650R for the real dirty stuff but have just broken my right ankle so won't be kickstarting for a while.

    If I could get a DR close to the XR's performance I'd be happy.

    Would a big bore/cammed/carbed/piped DR have similar performance?

    Is the Ricor shock/fork valve combo a good setup?

    Cheer's Jack.
  3. neo1piv014

    neo1piv014 ADV in training

    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2011
    Oddometer:
    627
    Location:
    Albuquerque, NM
    The opinion that seems to be the most prevalent around here is that the suspension is the weakest link. You'll be spending a ton of money and getting a lot done inside that engine to get the HP and torque up to an XR650R's level. However, you can spend a couple hundred bucks and get your forks completely re-done to be pretty solid.
  4. neo1piv014

    neo1piv014 ADV in training

    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2011
    Oddometer:
    627
    Location:
    Albuquerque, NM
    Sport bikes are obviously going to be better in the sweepers, but what I'm calling "agility" is my way of describing quick transitions from side to side and the way it goes around tight turns where the top speed isn't going to be in sport bike territory. For instance, our crest road up the Sandia mountains is a VERY tightly turning road. There's only a couple of nice sweepers where the sport bikes can let their hair down, but for the rest, even on a 21" front DS tire, I was able to stay comfortably close to some of the lesser riders of the sport bike group. I can imagine that better rubber would make it that much better, as the Shinko 705's did let go on me once or twice.
  5. neo1piv014

    neo1piv014 ADV in training

    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2011
    Oddometer:
    627
    Location:
    Albuquerque, NM
    I've been having problems getting the bike to start, so I took the starter/kill switch assembly off the bars and decided to clean it. As soon as I popped the kill switch out, it basically disintegrated on me. I guess 12 year old plastic doesn't hold up very well to the New Mexico desert and sun. I never actually used the damn thing because it always stuck closed, so I'm just planning on leaving it off the bike entirely and sealing up the hole with a piece of rubber or something. My questions:
    1. Is this okay to do?
    2. When I de-solder the orange wires going to the kill switch, do I need to solder them together and make a connection or keep them separated so they cannot make a connection?
    3. Anyone else done this before?
    4. Why are there 6 wires on one end of the wiring loom and 7 on the other end? :ear


    Thanks!
  6. sandwash

    sandwash Long timer

    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2007
    Oddometer:
    1,392
    Location:
    Flagstaff Az
    Try a mini momentary push button type switch.My starter button broke into pieces,button fit perfect in the housing.Bought it at Radio Shack.Nice to have a kill switch.

    [​IMG]
  7. doug s.

    doug s. Long timer

    Joined:
    May 2, 2011
    Oddometer:
    1,352
    Location:
    md
    i have a 150/60-17 on the rear, and w/a 16t front sprocket, its gearing is almost identical to stock. i am considering a 150/70-17 when it's time to replace it, for that ~5% taller gearing, but even w/the stock gearing, the bike is pretty composed cruising at 80. and yes, the lower front fender is great; i found the stock fender was pretty-much like having no fender when there was water on the road.

    doug s.
  8. neo1piv014

    neo1piv014 ADV in training

    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2011
    Oddometer:
    627
    Location:
    Albuquerque, NM
    Hm. I guess I'm just not sure exactly how the circuits are setup. When I look at the kill switch, there's four copper pads, and the orange wires appear to be soldered to the back two pads. However, I don't really know what was happening inside the switch when the button was pressed, so I don't know if I should cross the wires together or force them apart. I might check out a radio shack button though. I'm also looking at just getting an entire starter/killswitch/wiring assembly from eBay since some of the wiring looks a little rough as well.
  9. eakins

    eakins Butler Maps

    Joined:
    May 29, 2002
    Oddometer:
    19,772
    Location:
    Fort Collins, Colorado
    You and MeterPig should both hang out and complain how much the DR sucks. You sure aren't making any friends round these parts and at this point most probably think you're a whiney troll.

    Either accept the stock DR for what it is, modify it to want you want it to be or sell the damn thing. It's a 1996 bike deal with it.

  10. eakins

    eakins Butler Maps

    Joined:
    May 29, 2002
    Oddometer:
    19,772
    Location:
    Fort Collins, Colorado
    I'm not 100% sure how it works, but I'd guess you can eliminate it just fine and just the key only. De-solder the to wires that lead into the switch and leave them apart and try and start the bike. My gut says when they are apart the bike runs and connected it stops. If the bike runs, seal them and call it a day. If it doesn't start then connect them and start it and seal em.

  11. neo1piv014

    neo1piv014 ADV in training

    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2011
    Oddometer:
    627
    Location:
    Albuquerque, NM

    Another quick question:
    There's two wires (black and black w/ red stripe) that split out from the wiring harness about 4/5 of the way up to the handlebar assembly. These plug-in right near the throttle and are on spade type connectors. Can anyone tell me what these are for?
  12. neo1piv014

    neo1piv014 ADV in training

    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2011
    Oddometer:
    627
    Location:
    Albuquerque, NM
    Thanks! I guess I don't really stand to lose anything by just fiddling with it at this point. If I have to break down and just buy a brand new assemble with the wiring harness, it really isn't all that expensive.
  13. DR650SEDDY

    DR650SEDDY ride2discover

    Joined:
    May 31, 2007
    Oddometer:
    4,075
    Location:
    Phoenix,Az
    No not really it's a safety issue u must keep that button in working order. If u crash and ur hurt (or u got under the bike) it's easy to press that botton to shut the engine than to reach to the key to do it. I barely use it myself but i found out how important it was the hard way once. :deal
  14. neo1piv014

    neo1piv014 ADV in training

    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2011
    Oddometer:
    627
    Location:
    Albuquerque, NM
    That's a good point. I'll pickup a couple of buttons at Radio Shack or something to get the starter and kill switch working again. At this point, whether I cross the kill switch wires or leave them apart seems to make no difference, though the problem I was trying to solve to begin with was that the bike was not wanting to start at all. Since the existing buttons appear to be *mostly* a loss, I might just try pulling all the wires out, crossing the starter button wires, and see if it tries to turn over. If it does, then I've tracked it down to that button being my problem all along. If not, then I'm no worse off. Also, I might as well knock out that clutch safety switch thing. Do I just find where the two wires go from the clutch and connect those two together?
  15. DR650SEDDY

    DR650SEDDY ride2discover

    Joined:
    May 31, 2007
    Oddometer:
    4,075
    Location:
    Phoenix,Az
    Then hit the gym and pump up those arms [​IMG]:lol3 for more muscle:gdogMust we always blame others? (i mean da bikes:rofl)

    [​IMG] I wouldn't talk bad bout DRZ[​IMG] , specially the E model. I have both bikes & they're great for what they do, i did so many radical terrains on my DRZ400 (with farkeled suspensions) from deep sand washes to miles of rocky terrains [​IMG] never had any issues with that bike, from the way i ride [​IMG] that bike should be in pieces, but it still runnig strong so as my DR6fiddy [​IMG] ...
  16. Albie

    Albie Kool Aid poisoner

    Joined:
    Mar 31, 2004
    Oddometer:
    10,219
    Location:
    NWA
    Then your CBR is a piece of shit! :lol3
  17. Albie

    Albie Kool Aid poisoner

    Joined:
    Mar 31, 2004
    Oddometer:
    10,219
    Location:
    NWA
    WTF, highway cruising is for cars. :bore
  18. Albie

    Albie Kool Aid poisoner

    Joined:
    Mar 31, 2004
    Oddometer:
    10,219
    Location:
    NWA
    Hell, you'd probably shit yourself in ecstasy if you rode a real SM with some 17" Pilot Powers instead of a top heavy DR on Shinko's. :lol3
  19. Albie

    Albie Kool Aid poisoner

    Joined:
    Mar 31, 2004
    Oddometer:
    10,219
    Location:
    NWA
    Might get close to the power, but no way you're gonna be able to shed that much weight to get a DR comparable to the XRR.
  20. neo1piv014

    neo1piv014 ADV in training

    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2011
    Oddometer:
    627
    Location:
    Albuquerque, NM
    Lol. I'll probably never ride a true SM bike, but I am looking at putting the 17" Warp9 wheels on my bike when money permits. Real street tires would totally transform the handling of the bike. The suspension on mine needs some work as well.