the DR650 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.

  1. dljocky

    dljocky Been here awhile

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    Good day all,
    I've got a 2009 DR650 with 40,000 miles. I'm feeling/hearing a "clunk" when I get on the front brakes hard, I'm thinking I might need to replace my steering bearings? Do I need any special tools for this and I'm pretty mechanically challenged, should I attempt this or take to the dealer?
    Thanks in advance.
  2. SteelJM1

    SteelJM1 Undercover KTM rider

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    Speaking of practically no rebound damping.. is this normal even for a cogent rebuilt shock? Mine seems to otherwise be blown, as my ass end was pogoing up a rocky climb yesterday. The guys behind me mentioned my ass end flying into the air and commended me on my (barely) keeping control of the bike on the way up. There were a couple of times when the rear came down, hooked up and tried to launch me off the side of the trail.
  3. DR650SEDDY

    DR650SEDDY ride2discover

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    I did it last year it wasn't that bad u might need to buy a bearing press seperator like this one [​IMG] Harbor Freight have them for cheap, to remove the bearing off the steering stem. Must be also carefull when removing both O-ring base (buttom & top) where the bearings sits on, without scratching them or their foundations.

    <!-- <span id="mainImgHldr" style="display: inline-block;"> -->[​IMG] [​IMG]

  4. dljocky

    dljocky Been here awhile

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    Thanks for the information DR650seddy
  5. Kommando

    Kommando Long timer

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    That sounds like your problem. It compresses in a controlled, damped manner when hitting, then SPROING...the spring unloads. A Cogent shock, or any shock with rebound damping, shouldn't do this when adjusted correctly. Heavier oil in the stock shock can add a bit of rebound damping, but then the oil tends to overheat easier and leads to fade in prolonged bouts with rough terrain. You want valving that is just firm enough, yet allows viscosity light enough that it flows well without easily overheating/fading. Preferences can also differ.
  6. FuzzyNugs

    FuzzyNugs Adventurer

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    Exactly why my DR is so much fun. It's comfortable to just plow over stuff. :rofl
    [​IMG]
  7. Minsk99

    Minsk99 Adventurer

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    Hey... "Jammin" Jay... nice to see you pop up in the new (6th) addition of the Adventure Motorcycle Handbook which came out this week. Jay has a "box" in the Latin America section that highlights that section of his trip and gives his pros and cons of the DR650. Sweet, dude.
  8. Skidmarkart

    Skidmarkart Dirty Middle Age Man

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    Just wanted to say -

    I did a overnight pine-sol soak and carb cleaning (and got all the stuff to do a rebuild, didn't need any of it) per several suggestions, thanks Er-07s-2, and others for the copious help. Nothing was wrong except a clogged pilot. Cleaned it out (along with everything else) and bike runs like it was brand new. Amazing what a little speck-o-dirt can do. Ill be adding a gas filter ASAP. Though I didn't do anything except clean, I am glad I took on the project. I feel a lot better about fixing my carb (or hot-rodding it) on my own now that I have fully disassembled and cleaned and reassembled successfully. Thanks to everyone who suggested it (it really wasn't bad, I have never touched the carb on any of my bikes before) and the kind fellow who wrote the BST-40 Bible. :clap

    Oh, and it does work better with beer. Just go slow and a follow the directions!
  9. SteelJM1

    SteelJM1 Undercover KTM rider

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    Well shoot. Looks like another rebuild in that case.
  10. SteelJM1

    SteelJM1 Undercover KTM rider

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    Er... looking at it, it doesnt seem to be a cogent rebuild.. just stock. I coulda sworn..
  11. johnkol

    johnkol Been here awhile

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    The stock fork oil is 10w, not 5w, but that's irrelevant.

    What's relevant in this discussion is the difference between the stock damping characteristics of compression and rebound: the DR has too much of the former and too little of the latter, so if you change to a lighter oil to make compression damping softer, then you have no rebound damping, and if you switch to heavier oil in order to get some rebound damping, then compression damping is too harsh.

    The only way to fix this imbalance is to open the forks and either drill out the compression damping orifices, or partially block the rebound damping ones. Of course the chance of getting it right on first attempt is minimal, so that means that one has to do this iteratively -- and for me this is simply not worth the trouble given all the other problems I have with the bike.

    Suspension damping problems, steering head bearings, wheel bearings and axles, swingarm bearings, rubber-mounted pegs and bars... all these potential problems have unique signatures, and they in turn are distinct from frame flexes -- and I can tell the difference between them.

    The orginal Bridgetones were replaced at 7k with Shinkos 705. Tyre pressures are either 22/25 for street or 10/13 for dirt.
  12. psmcd

    psmcd Long timer

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    Stock fork oil might be 5 or 10 depending on what you read but it appears you have no idea what's in yours or how much. The unique signature apparent here is too much, and too rigid thinking with too little wrenching/actual looking. Sort of like oil weight and compression/rebound behavior. I'm all for just ride it, but not without actually knowing the cause when you suspect a problem.

    It also appears you have not dismantled and inspected any bearings/shafts. We can probably rule out tires if the bike behaves similarly with Shinkos or Bridgestones. You seem a very methodical thinker but I see no evidence of methodical inspection. Unique signatures and "discernment" do not preclude verification.

    Did you ever consider your head is now too big for your neck? As you age and spend more time sitting, the neck/noggin ratio diminishes, skewing everything you think you know.
  13. Mambo Dave

    Mambo Dave Backyard Adventurer

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    Not that this means anything to anyone, but I find my DR particularly sluggish and questionable in handling when down near the recommended tire pressures. I run Shinko 705's and well, but my front in in the higher 20's (like 28?), and my rear low 30's. Obviously I air down if I'm off road.

    I don't know what the effect of these pressures will be on the 705's, but I just can't go back to low 20's on the front (rear doesn't matter I guess, I could probably run it in the mid 20's and not care), especially not without having to pump a little more air into the front far too often just t keep it from getting really bad feeling.
  14. neo1piv014

    neo1piv014 ADV in training

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    I run mine 28/30 and they haven't given me any grief yet. If you pump them up to street tire pressures, they handle dang good on the road, and I don't even bother airing them down when I go off road. You'd be surprised how little off road ability they lose when you don't air them down.
  15. Mambo Dave

    Mambo Dave Backyard Adventurer

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    Just glad to hear I wasn't the only one going to the crazy end of pressures compared to what so many recommend, lol. Thanks.

    By the way, is that an acerbis front fender (if so, which?) and higher bars on your bike? I'm thinking about trying a higher rise set of bars.
  16. Rob.G

    Rob.G Mostly Harmless

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    I run mine at 26/28 so I'm pretty close. If I carry a lot of stuff, I go up to 28/30. But like you, I don't air down either unless it gets soft (e.g. sandy).

    I'm still working on wearing out my Shinko 700's so I can switch to my fresh set of 705's on my spare wheelset. Then I'll put some T63's on the current wheelset to save for super-gnarly stuff that doesn't get attacked by my KLX250S.

    Rob
  17. Ridin'nFishin

    Ridin'nFishin Real Rider

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    +1

    But, I think we all know that nothing that has been of anykind of help to John. He doen't listen or even attempt to take into consideration that his problem may be something besides his so called frame flex. All he has done is replyed to you when you try to help him in a way to discount what you have written. He said he can tell the difference.

    I think we should all say goodbye to John and let him go and if we are lucky he will unload his pos bike and never post on this thread again. I have followed this thread off and on for a few years and again just the other day and got to see his first post about his frame flex. His writing of this so called flex makes no sence at all, I don't care how good he writes. His writing has added nothing to help anyone who has a DR650 or is looking to buy one. Would be nice if the mods would just delete every post dealing with him and his bike in this thread. Including this one.

    Besides. I just picked a 2001 DR650 yesterday :clap and I am willing to learn from you guys, I am sure I will have some more questions. I know motorcycles, but never rode a DR until yesterday and I'm sure I have a learning curve, but I like it. I need to do some thinks to it to make it as comfortable as my KLR. Should not be too much of a problem, all I need is a custom seat by me and some ape hanger handle bars, I mean risers. :lol3Then ride it and make a choice on which to keep, my KLR or DR. I hope the DR because I am wanting the simplisity of the DR, air cooled. I think it is a great bike and looking forward to riding.
  18. Steve in Santa Fe

    Steve in Santa Fe Steve in Santa Fe

    Joined:
    Sep 17, 2012
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    Location:
    Santa Fe, NM
    Greetings all,

    I am looking at a 2005 DR 650 that has 24,000 miles. (Mostly highway as a commuter).
    The guy has full records and the bike looks well cared for.

    Question: IS 24K high mileage for a DR 650 engine that has been maintained?
    (I have an old BMW Boxer, where 24K is barely broken in, so my thinking may be off.

    Thanks,
    Steve
  19. planemanx15

    planemanx15 Long timer

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    Not at all. I have 28,XXX bought it with 20,000 and thought that might be high. Just change the fluids (oil) and check the valves. You could also check the fork and shock oil, new brake fluid, and check the jetting if its been messed with. Change the plugs and air filter and it will run fine.
  20. neo1piv014

    neo1piv014 ADV in training

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    I believe this is the acerbis front fender. I haven't seen a stock one in person, but I believe the PO said he changed mine out. It's not bad, but if you catch a crosswind on the highway, you'll feel it in the bars.

    The bars are Protaper 7/8 bars with the Henry/Reed bend. They were on there when I got the bike, and I believe they're on some kind of bar risers. Not having a stock bike to compare to makes it very difficult to judge just what made a different or even what originally came on the bike lol. I like the 7/8 bars over the fat bar type bars because I use that 1/2" cross bar to mount my RAM mount stuff. Very handy.