the DR650 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.

  1. P-P

    P-P Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2008
    Oddometer:
    97
    Location:
    The Wild-Wild West... Northern Nevada
    The problem is that NOBODY, once again, NOBODY else feels what you do, except me when my swingarm bushings were destroyed. We all have riden other rigs - even the same ones you have, yet nobody has the same experience. This seems to indicate that you have a DIFFERENT DR650 than the rest of us. Using LOGIC this is what the obvious answer is.

  2. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2009
    Oddometer:
    7,933
    Location:
    SE Denver-ish
    If you look closely for touched up paint chips, dinged frame rails under the engine (maybe hidden by a new skidplate), scuffed brush gaurds, headlight cowling, lever ends & mirrors, weird fitting replacement nuts and bolts, etc, abuse can be found. It sounds like a nice bike if it was a commuter, but it should be priced low for your area. 24k is no spring chicken. :gerg

    Mine just turned 42,400 and runs like a top (because I ride it like I want it to last). I'm a believer in full synthetic motor oil (Mobil 1 15w-50 automotive at 3500 miles, in my case :zilla)
  3. Adv Grifter

    Adv Grifter on the road o'dreams

    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2010
    Oddometer:
    6,128
    Location:
    Passing ADV Stalkers in California
    There are hundreds of posts on the 525 - 520 option, all kinds of opinions all through this thread. You could start at the beginning of this thread and read the whole thing ... but your head might swell up and explode.
    (too much knowledge!) :rofl

    If you use your DR650 mostly as a dirt bike then you have more gearing options (especially with the rear sprocket) with the 520 set up.

    But for serious LD touring / travel ... especially out of the USA ... stay with a quality 525 chain and OEM sprockets.

    If you go 520 get the best X ring chain you can and use quality sprockets. (if you care about longevity). I would use the DR800 (DR BIG) sprockets.

    I have gone 25,000 miles on one 525 X ring chain. (Not the stock one)
  4. Off Limits

    Off Limits Banned

    Joined:
    Jun 18, 2009
    Oddometer:
    3,481
    Location:
    Camp Snoopy
    So when I was removing the charcoal canister, I broke the fitting on the bottom of the carb that the hose goes to. Am I screwed? Can I epoxy it tojust plug it or am sol. I fired it up and it doesn't seem to suck any air. But the fitting is brass and has a hole through it.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
  5. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

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    Sep 30, 2009
    Oddometer:
    7,933
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    SE Denver-ish
    The johnkols of the internet come and go, but the knowledge base will still be here.

    PS: The entire ADVrider site (outside of CS&M) is pretty touchy about political rambling of any kind.
  6. Chill

    Chill Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 30, 2012
    Oddometer:
    335
    Location:
    QLD Australia
    I come to the DR650 after riding three new bikes. A ZX10R (about as cutting edge as you can get) a Z1000 (the new one with the solid frame) and a ZX6R (a track tool if ever there was one) and I have to say that I've not noticed any frame flex. I can feel the knobblies D606 squirming a bit when I get it over to about 45 degrees on the road but frame flex? No.
  7. johnkol

    johnkol Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 6, 2011
    Oddometer:
    136
    Location:
    SF Bay Area
    Tyre pressures are proportional to rider weight, so a 250-lb rider should certainly be using higher tyre pressures than a 150-lb rider. And indeed, underinflating tyres will make for a sub-standard handling bike.
  8. dogjaw

    dogjaw plays well alone

    Joined:
    Jul 13, 2008
    Oddometer:
    3,253
    Location:
    between the Ozarks and the Ouachitas
    I ran through two rears of the 700's, never did wear out the front; absolutely great all around tire, although the rear tends to need replacing at 3500. Now running 705's due to a switch to a 19" front, very good as well, better in the twisties, not quite as good in the gravel, but what is?
  9. Rusty Rocket

    Rusty Rocket Life behind "Bars"

    Joined:
    Dec 22, 2005
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    10,016
    Location:
    Trying to leave CT
    [​IMG]
  10. Jammin

    Jammin Living on a DR

    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2006
    Oddometer:
    1,563
    Location:
    New Delhi - new 'home' for post RTW
    Need your advice, fellow DR riders:

    As you may know, I was having electrical problems with my bike in western Tanzania (she's a 1998 with 74,000+ miles). She was dying after a few minutes of running and a reworked carb, a newer CDI, rectifier and ignition coil didn't solve the problem, so I figured it was the stator. I got a new stator shipped in, the 250W uprated one and installed that along with slightly-newer parts from parted DRs: a CDI from a 2006 and a rectifier from a 2001. After those parts, she fired up and sounded really good. I did 50 kms of test rides and was confident the problem was solved, so got back on the trail heading south.

    But now, after 400 kms (250 miles), the problem is back. She died on me today in the middle of muddy roads. It felt like a loss of power. I let her cool, we rode a bit more and then she died again. I figured since I didn't replace the original ignition coil, maybe it was acting up now. I put in the coil from the 2001 bike and she died again in a few kms. Then I unplugged the generator and we ran for a while before same failure. Then I unplugged the rectifier and we ran fine for a few kms before she died again. The longer I let her cool down before trying again, the longer she lasts before dying again. To me, this sounds like something is heating up and causing the loss of power. It doesn't feel like a fuel (carb) issue. It feels like something is cutting power to the spark plugs. I limped her back to a small town.

    I'm running on the Shorai battery and have a voltage monitor and after unplugging both stator and rectifier, battery was holding charge at 13.45 and after two starts with no stator, it dropped to 13.35 V.

    I have a replacement wiring harness from the 2006 bike. Is mounting that on going to help? That's all I can think of now. I'm close to throwing in the towel and putting her on a truck and heading back to a good mechanic in Nairobi. Argghhh!!!! :becca
  11. RichBeBe

    RichBeBe All Hail Seitan!!!

    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2004
    Oddometer:
    6,342
    Location:
    NYC
    Best DR ever!
  12. Mobiker

    Mobiker Long timer

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    Apr 22, 2003
    Oddometer:
    1,903
    Location:
    Missouri
    Some drugs involved there.
  13. barko1

    barko1 barko1

    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2004
    Oddometer:
    3,437
    Location:
    By a lot of nice riding
    Love the rear suspension. Maybe Jay should pick this one up to continue his journey.
  14. RichBeBe

    RichBeBe All Hail Seitan!!!

    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2004
    Oddometer:
    6,342
    Location:
    NYC
    Yeah I never saw it in person, but the guy from here who bought it was an ideal match for it. He could actually touch the ground:rofl
  15. Escaped

    Escaped Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jul 8, 2006
    Oddometer:
    499
    Location:
    Northern California
    Hi Jay,

    You have considered the side-stand "Safety" switch and related diode? You cant just override the switch but must remove the diode relay. There is discussion somewhere on this site regarding that.

  16. JagLite

    JagLite Long timer

    Joined:
    Jun 17, 2010
    Oddometer:
    1,514
    Location:
    Anchorage Alaska
    That is terrible!
    It does certainly seem to indicate a heat soak problem.

    Do you remember reading the electrical problems the rider on the KTM had going from South Africa to the Arctic Circle?

    He replaced just about everything electrical on his bike as he slowly made his way north but it wasn't until he got to England where he replaced the wiring harness only to find, finally, that the problem was the voltage regulator.

    His bike had FI and the voltage spike was throwing the computer into a fail mode.

    Now, the DR is simple in comparison but you are suffering an extremely rare problem too.
    Could it be something as simple as the voltage regulator on your bike?
    Bad spark plugs?
    Bad plug wires? (I had brand new OEM plug wires installed in my car that went bad in one week, replaced free)
    Bad voltage reg?
    Bad insulation on a wire that is shorting out on the frame when the wire gets hot?

    Your location makes it very difficult to diagnose and replacement parts are not available to experiment with.
    I wish I could offer a solution that will solve the problem but I can't.
    Only to offer more possibilities to check.

    I would certainly replace the harness if you have an alternate one to try.
    Could possibly solve the problem...
  17. Lil' Steve

    Lil' Steve PussyWagon™ Chauffer

    Joined:
    Oct 3, 2006
    Oddometer:
    4,077
    Location:
    NYC, AZ

    :flip

    At least that bike had no frame flex. :evil
  18. RichBeBe

    RichBeBe All Hail Seitan!!!

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    Mar 13, 2004
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    Location:
    NYC
    I thought it was Julio's but if the bike fits:evil
  19. Jammin

    Jammin Living on a DR

    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2006
    Oddometer:
    1,563
    Location:
    New Delhi - new 'home' for post RTW
    Ha! If it runs, I'll take it :evil

    Hi, yup, I think I removed the relay when I did this mod, way back before the trip started.

    Hey James, yeah, so frustrating that I can't pinpoint the problem, after throwing so much at it. I feel replacing the harness is going to be a bigger job than I can manage where I'm at now. Looking into trucking her out of here.

    I replaced my original regulator with a take-off from a 2001 bike from South Africa. The owner couldn't say how good the part was, and it was all I had to go with. It ran fine for the last 250 miles. I unplugged the regulator (and the stator) and the bike was running better, but still cut out again after 10 miles.

    Is there some other electrical component (relay, etc) that would cause a power loss?

    I replaced a spark plug, have a different ignition coil with plug wires from a 2001 bike and that didn't solve the problem.
    Poor girl, she's really suffering :cry
  20. O'B

    O'B Long timer

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    Feb 19, 2011
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    Passing By The Highway
    Sounds like an electrical component of some type. How would you know you ask? Years ago I worked in an electronic factory producing pcb boards for use in computer printers. We would trouble shoot down to the component level and my job was testing and repair of the boards before they went into the printers. a common problem was defective chips that would fail after they heated up during the runnin test. These were pretty hard to locate so we would use canned freon on the chips to cool them down as the board was running and almost a 100 percent of the time when the freon was placed on the correct chip the problem was found as the device would start running correctly and when the freon was removed and the chip was let to heat up again the device would start to fail again. I don;t know what it could be but it could even be a defective fuse,spark plug,ect. One thing that was common was the more you ran it the worse it would get. Depending on the degee of defectiveness you start with when a total failure occured it would have a tendancy to take out ajoining components. Start with these simple solutions change all the fuses, Revist all the grounding points on the bike and get a good battery to test with. Also check all the wires for abrasion, Then test. If it still fails move to the component level. Start with what you haven't changed yet. I know you will say I already did this but you should start over step bt step. If you can get a can of freon it may help. Just my two cents.