the DR650 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.

  1. opium89

    opium89 Long timer

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    I hesitantly and rather expensively ordered it from the dealer. I'll post the specs when it shows up. I found some rather inexpensive options in a 45 and 46mm...Be a shame if they turn out to be a match as they're about 1/12th the price!



  2. P-P

    P-P Adventurer

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    The Wild-Wild West... Northern Nevada
    Okay, okay, so there IS flex! Wrong again, my bad!

  3. neo1piv014

    neo1piv014 ADV in training

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    That's more like "sag" than flex. Someone ride it hard over a speed bump and put it out of its misery.
  4. Off Limits

    Off Limits Banned

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    Camp Snoopy
    Any help would be helpful. just need to know if I broke a vent fitting, or a vacuum fitting.
  5. NordieBoy

    NordieBoy Armature speller

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    It has no misery left.
    It was parted out by a member here...
  6. neo1piv014

    neo1piv014 ADV in training

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    Albuquerque, NM
    Tell me it was built as a joke, right?
  7. Mongle

    Mongle Knuckle dragger

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    North Carolina Y'all

    I'm not sure what you have there- never worked on a Calif. bike.

    BUT, looking at the shop manual diagram: If it is the port on the bottom of the carb toward the front I believe that is what they call the "purge port". It takes the charcoal canister vapor and sucks it back through the engine. It may only have vaccum when the engine is picked up off idle (throttle blade is opened). Have somone rev the engine while you put your finger over it. It may be light and hard to feel with your finger.
  8. P-P

    P-P Adventurer

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    The Wild-Wild West... Northern Nevada
    It is a vacuum fitting. If you're abandoning the system, then at least plug the hole to prevent foriegn matter intrusion.

  9. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

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  10. Adv Grifter

    Adv Grifter on the road o'dreams

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    Man, that's bad luck! You've replaced just about everything it seems. Hard to know where to look. I suspect a bad Pick-Up coil (ignitor) ... within the stator. Maybe swap in another from the other stator? They can be intermittent, from what I've heard. Maybe heat related?

    Got to be heat related issue as she starts after cool down, no? :ear
    Could also be Rectifier/Regulator ... but I know you replaced that too.
    But using 2nd hand donated parts ... its sometimes not possible to know if they are "known good". Not an easy situation ...

    I know you wired in a bunch of switches in your dash. Could anything there be shorting or in anyway screwing things up? Also ... when you modded your dash, did you mod the ignition switch? I was thinking of that little hidden resistor (anti-theft) under the switch. It interfaces into the harness and goes to CDI ... if shorted or missing ... bike won't start. I doubt it is intermittent though. More mystery. :huh

    When you swap out the harness ... take care that little resistor.

    But I keep coming back to the Pick-Up coil (ignitor)

    Good luck ... I hope you solve it! :beer
  11. C/W

    C/W Adventurer

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    San Francisco, CA
    Sounds like you have a short somewhere. Look at the existing harness and check for any frayed wires.

    In particular, look at the wiring of the ignition switch (where your key goes) and where the wires bends around the steering stem. You have an older bike so any areas of flex (steering) may pose a problem purely because of wear. I had a cb750 that occasionally died & restarted right away. The problem was a worn connection into a molex connector that disconnected when turning slightly left.

    The obvious areas of shorts are ignition switch, kill switch, clutch switch, side stand switch.

    There's not a lot of wiring, may as well take a good look at it all.


  12. BergDonk

    BergDonk Long timer

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    In addition to the other excellent suggestions, check the white 2 pin conector to the coil under the tank. And are you absolutely sure its not running out of fuel in the carb when it stops? How about the kill switch contacts?
  13. DRT

    DRT Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2011
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    34
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    Boston
    Second the checking of fuel flow to the carb.

    In particular check the filter sock that is right at the junction of the fuel line and the carb. My was clogged once and was doing something pretty close to what your symptoms sound like.
    As the float level got too low the power would cut out so abruptly that i was convinced there was an electrical problem.
  14. johnkol

    johnkol Been here awhile

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    SF Bay Area
    Not necessarily.

    Do you have the Service Manual? The only thing you may have to do is tighten the steering stem nut (page 5-20, item 7). After you do this, check for any tight spots as you rotate the triple clamps; if the bearings feel smooth, then you're set. Double-check for play in the bearings -- follow the cautionary note at the bottom of page 5-26.
  15. Mambo Dave

    Mambo Dave Backyard Adventurer

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    You know, it hit me as I was doing a bank and grocery run on the DR650 today that I should have added that I'm no heavy-weight, and the bike isn't 'loaded down.'

    And it sorta seems like the Shinko 705 owners are reporting running over suggested pressures, by a good degree, more than any other tire make.

    I'm about 185 pounds... and aside from the 7 pounds of lard and two pounds of cube steak I had on the bike today (above and beyond my own lard and tube steak), it runs pretty stock weights normally. Yet, probably mostly due to the front tire/wheel's feel, I run my tires like I wrote earlier - high 20's front, 30 or 32 rear.

    I'm not advocating it, or saying it's safe, or anything, but I'm damned glad to know other guys are feeling what I am feeling out of the 705's, and doing the same. When I die from a horrible fire-ry crash due to it, I'll report back here and say "Don't do that" ... but until then I'm going to run what feels good to me for turning and cornering.

    It also hit me that a part of this may me a slightly flexier tire build (since thus far it's mostly 705 guys) coupled with a weak front suspension. Maybe some part of it is trying to make up for just a too smushy front end, but then that really doesn't explain why I did it ... which was to counter what I was feeling in the tire during even mild and slow transitions.

    Probably all of us who have reported running them that high on relatively stock bikes would be better served with a set of SM wheels and tires, or a 19" front and street tire, (and a suspension upgrade) to counter what we're feeling up to the point at which we want to take our bikes off road. But no matter... airing the 21" 705 up just seems OK enough that I don't really care. Well, OK enough that I don't care for now - I'd still like the tire to 'feel' the way it does now, but with a fork spring upgrade (or emulators, or... other forks).
  16. Lil' Steve

    Lil' Steve PussyWagon™ Chauffer

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    Not sure, some redneck engineering and meth were likely involved. I picked that up years ago from a local classified ad, kept the wheels and parted the rest.
  17. Ridin'nFishin

    Ridin'nFishin Real Rider

    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2009
    Oddometer:
    598
    Jay,

    Sorry the bike is given you a hard time dude.
    You have a lot to check from all the other ideas.
    I have a couple to add.
    Check the spark plug caps and coils for cracks.
    If you can run it in the dark might want to do so while looking at the spark plug caps and the coil. If they are cracked you should see the sparks. Gets worse the hotter the bike gets until it cuts out.

    Good luck.
  18. FlowBee

    FlowBee Just me.

    Joined:
    Oct 11, 2004
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    Stasis.
    So late last week I made it to Tucson on my DR. My tires (especially the rear) were significantly flat-spotted. So I rolled into town needing a new rear and possibly a new front. Tucson - border town, right? So I decided to gear up for the road south.

    I checked FOUR different dealerships in Tucson for tires. ONLY tires. Here is what I found:

    1. The big dealership chain in town with two locations had NO 17" rear tires under 140-profile in stock. They could order them for me with a 5 day turn around.
    2. The #2 dealership in town along the I10 corridor had ONE pair of tires, shelf-aged, at FULL markup including full labor markup. This was a Pirelli MT90 and a Gripster 130/70. I paid them $$$ for the service of having my chain guard disappear 100 miles later. They still weave under 20 MPH.
    3. The #3 shop in town, along Grant Rd, had only Shinko 750s. These are super cheap Koren tires known for low price but short lifespan. Not appropriate for south of the border.
    4. Some independent guy known as *MW who may or may not have something I may need. Call..... yeah... no.

    So now I'm back in Ohio trying to figure out how to be truly self sufficient in light of the "adventure sport" BS that comes with being in the southwest.

    I might as well just take the RT.

    FB
  19. DockingPilot

    DockingPilot Hooked Up and Hard Over

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    You werent planning on new shoes for the bike once you got there?

    Sent from my SCH-I800 using Tapatalk 2
  20. FlowBee

    FlowBee Just me.

    Joined:
    Oct 11, 2004
    Oddometer:
    5,763
    Location:
    Stasis.
    No. I understand carrying tires into Tadfuckistan. But this is still the United States - let alone north america. Crazy is it seems, I assumed that towns near the border would have spares for common tire sizes for people headed south. Yeah, you're right. I should have anticipated this. The "border" begins about 600 miles north of the border.

    Even my local dealer in Ohio has these in stock. Seriously.

    WTF.