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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.
Still in progress. 3 more days ahead of us.
I agree you should not proceed without getting another good battery to test with. Be sure to check all the associated ground points. A little patience I am sure you are almost there. It will certaianly be a WTF moment when you identify the problem.
@BergDonk: As far as I know, the TM38 does not have a built-in fuel filter. I have the Aqualine tank with two petcocks and there are screens on the inside of them. I then have an inline fuel filter (paper core) where the two fuel lines meet and before it goes into the carb inlet. Good idea on viewing the float level. Will try that when I get back to civilization.
Here's an exploded view of my carb: http://www.sudco.com/Diagrams123/exptm.gif
Anything you see in there that I can fiddle with?
@Nullarbor63: thank you, my friend. You are right that I am getting hung up on it being an electrical issue but I'm open to it being related to something else. It's just that I can't diagnose that here but once I'm back to a city, I'll do a full tear down and investigate. Thanks for bringing up the cylinder head crack issue. Didn't know about that.
@greer: you have a valid point and yes, it could be the Shorai lithium-iron battery. I'll test with a regular one once I'm back to Nairobi.
@nsrrider: yeah, I dont think it's the resistor. thanks.
@Randomroad: I can't wait for that WTF moment!
sanDRina in the middle of a field repair in southwestern Tanzania, just before a thunderstorm rolled through:
In trying times like this, I tell myself to look for the positives and put things in perspective. I'm healthy, dry and online :)
Well no Flow, we should expect one to call ahead after the long ride to Texas to make sure one had a tire waiting. Like I did in Battle Mountain Nevada while riding the TAT. It was pretty easy, I called a bike shop out there before we left NJ and had him order us tires. He did, they were there.
We continued on..........
Loose the edge there friend.
I did it. The mother moves. Tons of smooth power. I recommend it.
You might check out DRRIDERS.com. I think there were some reports of it posted there. I plan on doing the kit this spring.
Have you done any other mods to the bike, or just given it truckloads of awesome power?
Someone might have said this already: Any bike that I have had that would start when cold...run for a bit...then shut off and not re start until time has passed has for me always been a gas tank vent issue. Next time it does it make sure the tank is venting correctly. Take the cap off and try starting again. Also, make sure your fuel lines are not near the cylinder head. I never heard of a bike having fuel vapor lock from heat boiling the gas, but it sounds like you have checked everything else...
I have never been inside of a TM38 so I don't know how the float needle is hung on the float. On some carbs if the float is not hung EXACTLY how the manufacurer reccomends it can hang/stick in its little tube. Most often this results in a lean condition but still runs or will start and quit as soon as the float bowl runs out of gas. Edit: I looked at the carb link you provided...doesn't look like it can go but one way. hmmmm.....
Do we need to send an Old Priest and a Young Priest and have an exorcism? I'm sure you can find someone to swing a dead chicken over that thing! Good luck brother.
many buy tires from MSS http://www.motorcycle-superstore.co...Adventure-Touring-Dual-Sport-Tires-Tires.aspx
buying a pair will almost always be enough for free shipping - $90+
Nothing jumps out at me and it doesn't appear that you have a drain on the float bowel. I have in the past drilled the float bung and threaded and epoxied a hose fitting into it so I could track down a float level issue. But I also had a spare bung to do it to.
As you have a decent external inline filter, I'd get rid of the screens inside the tank. When they are hidden away, they tend to be ignored.
And as someone else suggested, tank venting?
Took a chance on a GSXR muffler from ebay.
It is the coveted 40FO.
Description said it sounded like there were loose parts inside.
I received it today and shook it, something sounded loose. Held the 4 bolts on the end, shook it, sounded like maybe a very little loose sand inside but nothing mechanical.
The end cap bolts have very small factory welds on them so I know it hasn't been screwed with.
Am I good to go? Should I try opening it up or leave it alone?
You are good to go.
The sound is probably just some of the small pieces from the donor bikes pistons when they disintegrated.
There really is nothing inside there to come loose.
The mid baffle plate and two short tubes welded to it.
All wrapped by a perforated tube with a thin permanent sound deadener between it and the shell.
How much did you pay for the muffler? I'm looking at swapping too.
I just got one from a Hayabusa for $30 plus shipping. Its the 24F0.
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First off I have to say I highly respect you for taking on an adventure most folks would never attempt, including me. Kudo's brother
Second I would get a compression and leakdown test if at all possible....if your bike has 74k original miles on the engine this prob could very well be engine related.
Also be sure your vacuum petcock is working right if you're still running it. I always ran my vacuum petcock machines on prime and skipped the vacuum set-up alltogether...they always seemed to give me probs with leaking diaphrams and fuel starvation.....which can often seem like electrical probs.
Good luck and hope you can forge ahead with this awesome adventure
Have you actually read Jay's Ride Report? Go read it. Then you'll realize how far ahead of you Jay is. He's forgotten more about DR's than most of us know ... or will ever know. (this is his 3rd DR650)
Jay is also an engineer and a very good tinkerer in his own right. Once you've read the WHOLE Ride Report you'll know where his bike is at, what's been done ... and just how competent he really is.
Trust me, Jay is on the case ... whether it's fuel or electronics?
Are you a betting man?
Sweet! $40 shipped
I have been in question about a tank vent problem also.
Yet, he's asking us
So im new to this forum, and new to adv riding, but am considering an adv bike for my next steed. I have just written off (not my fault) my owned from new 06 GSXR1000, and thought it might be time for a change. i loved the gixxer (had handlebars and a swag of other mods) but sadly, it was taken away from me in a accident.
Currently, 95% of my riding is commuting, but i was hoping to spend a little time exploring, now im over the need for speed. since im new to dirt (have ridden some dirtbikes in a padock, but ill still consider myself new), i was thinking of a smaller adv bike.
some options ive considered now are
I have a budget of about 11K AUD, and cant ride till mid jan at earliest next year (broken hand requiring pins and plates, and a broken wrist). as mentioned commuting in traffic, along highways (100kph) and normal streeta (60) is the norm, with the odd trip off road. Once i finish uni, and back in a high paying job, ill look at r1200gs etc, but for now, cheap, functional and good are requirements.
Here in oz, the klr and dr are about 2k cheaper than the husky, but the husky looks to be better std.
So since this is the dr thread - why should i buy a dr?