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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.
Per Racetech and Procycle's site the Racetech has that same knob, with rebound adjustment.
The failure mode of the type of O2 sensor used in the Andros gas bench is that it begins to read higher than normal. I suppose that if left uncorrected indefinitely, perhaps it could read as high as ambient. The software should throw a flag if the sensor is bad (unless it was spanned when it was no longer new). You can take the sensor out and check the voltage across the terminals. It should read 9-13mV, with much below 9mV meaning the sensor is bad.
HC is also quite low, perhaps unrealistically so. Unfortunately it is the infrared part of the bench that reads CO2, HC and CO. I therefore suspect that the CO readings are inaccurate as well.
A leak on the vacuum side of the pump would produce high O2 and low HC & CO2 (perhaps the drain valve in the first water trap is open). What doesn't seem to jive is that a leak on the vacuum side should also produce low CO, but the CO is in fact too high. That either shoots my theory to hell, or indicates that the CO is in fact much, much higher than the reading (!).
These readings do indirectly affect the HP and torque readings. If the CO is in fact inaccurate, and is in reality through the roof, then torque and HP would improve based on the jetting being corrected (it should improve a bit even if the CO was accurate).
To get a proper apples to apples sense of which of the parts work better, the combinations must be compared to one another when jetted correctly (I noticed that you don't have a CO trace for both runs, so you'd not be able to compare even if the data were not suspect). I would therefore fix whatever was wrong with the EGA and start over.
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I learn something new every day.
Here's an informative thread on the Cogent shock for the DR650. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=301968
Thanks vfr. I'm probably missing it, but what sets the Cogent apart from the Racetech shock shaft assembly, and is it just different, better, or both?
Not sure what the differences are other than the optional hard anodized coating. The Cogent was the only option I was aware of when I was looking to upgrade. There are a few more choices now. If you have access to nitrogen for the refill, the Race Tech option may save you a few bucks. I'm guessing the end result between the Cogent and the Race Tech assembly will be very similar.
Edit: Here's what sets them apart...
I'm currently searching for a rear luggage rack that also has some sort of "built-in" tool storage space under it. Up to this point I didn't find anything for sale or even custom built.
My idea is to have little tool boxes built under the sides of this rack, basically between the rack and the exhaust side panel, and similarly on the left side. I will have the rack fabricated by a local welder guy, but it's always better to see what others have done before designing your own rack/accessories, as you can improve the design or simply borrow neat ideas.
So if anyone has built such a thing, or knows such a product, a few pictures would be more than welcome.
Knee pain consideration is what is stopping me right now from giving my DR company in the garage with a new Multi Strada.
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Thanks for the tips!
Suspension will definitely happen for the "final build" on this bike for next summer. I'm weighing the options there too.
18" is for more clearance, better dirt tire selection, more offroad-ability. I'm fine with the DS tires available in 18", and it seems that the 18" upgrade is simple to do, with a few different source options (DR350 wheel, new wheel from procycle, re-lace original hub).
I was lead to believe the GSXR pipes were getting harder to source, and the overall cost could be more, with the header required, but I will look more into that.
My question was more about what a header upgrade (regardless of muffler) is even getting me on a stock engine. I'm just skeptical of header upgrades, I guess. FMF is partially responsible for that... various "bombs" that give you .3 HP of "seat of the pants grunt." heh
the Rotopax company makes something like what you are asking about heres a link to all their products
The seat feels much better for me and I am ready to put some time on the bike. I am sure I will like it a lot more than I do already. The KLR will be for sale (maybe) after I ride the DR some miles.
I just want to give a shout out to a DR650 rider with a yellow ADV sticker on the back of his helmet cruising though CT and MA on interstate 84 and 90 last Sunday the 25th. Nice inverted fork set up! Kudos for riding in these temps, I guess I'm not the only one riding my DR on the highways this time of year.
That must have been me!
So funny you noticed. I turned a lot of heads that day.
I was on my way home to Boston from visiting family in NJ.
Does this bike look familiar?
kientech now also makes a mounting plate for the 'busa can which can be attached to their midpipe, and these are cheap. which means the gsxr can prices should come down, as they both seem to be pretty-much the same performance-wise and both need no re-packing. so, a used 'busa or gsxr can, and a kientech midpipe should cost no more than the fmf.
regarding performance, all i can say is when i got my bike, it had an open airbox, yosh can, stock header and stock carb adjusted to suit. it ran fine, but i only put ~100 miles on it before i installed the fcr39 carb, hi-flow midpipe, and tsukigi gsxr can. now, it really runs fine! but as i said, i don't really have much to compare to...
Thats it! I saw you pull a few of these on the highway
Good day all,
I just got my DR back from the local shop, they replaced the steering bearings. I try to go over and check nuts/bolts when they do work on my bike. The pinch nuts were super tight along with the axle bolt. I'm talking WAY tighter than spec. Steering feels a little stiff, but it could be from the new bearings? When up on the center stand, steering seems smooth. Any tips or tricks that might help me have some confidence that the bearings were installed correctly?
Also, I'm pretty much done with that shop.
Also, would anyone happen to know what size the nut is on top of the triple tree is?
Wow...it's a damn small world out there, isn't it?
i built the rack, pannier mounts, & tool tube,
Always just two!
HP isn't really misleading...like I said; just math.
There has never been a 125cc two stroke bike that makes 40 ft-lbs of torque (that is why you have to twist their nuts to make them go!). A 125cc 2 stroke GP bike only made 55 hp at like 14K RPM which is only 20.6 ft lbs. I think KTM made the most HP in 125 dirt bikes= 37 HP @ 11K which is only 17ish ft-lbs. But, you are right in that the more rpm you have with a constant torque will always give more HP. That is why when building an engine a flat torque that doesn't fall off in higher rpm is more desirable.
Do you mean the pinch bolts on the fork tubes ... or the 4 pinch bolts at the front axle plate? NEITHER should be over torqued.
The Axle pinch bolts WILL SNAP OFF if over torqued. Lots of examples here. The Axle itself uses a high torque value ... not sure what it is but it's very tight. But NOT the 4 little clamp nuts ... be careful with those.
The Fork tube Pinch bolts on Upper and Lower triple clamps also should NOT be super tight? Why? Over tightening will Squash the delicate Alu fork tubes ... and ruin them. Follow Suzuki's torque numbers.
The Top Nut is 1 1/4" ... forgot MM equivalent. (inch and a quarter)
To test if steering head bearing tension are properly adjusted ... raise front of bike UP until front tire is clear. Try to keep bike more or less level.
Steering should go full left to full right easily and freely with NO drag.
You can also grab front wheel and pull on it and try to feel for any slack.
If steering is dragging, then Top Nut must come off and the adjuster below that needs to be carefully adjusted. Make sure the order of washers and adjuster nuts are all in correct order. Don't mix them up. You could also raise steering stem UP and check your shop put in enough grease. Don't over grease or over pack these bearings.