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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.
Clutch basket nut at 36 ft/lbs.Not the bolts for the clutch springs.
Long before I get to 36# the plate holder will no longer free wheel. Maybe I am doing something else wrong.
Sorry to have bothered everyone. I went to the parts diagram, then went to the shop, and found the missing washer, now it works fine. The bike is a 2008 with 6000 miles and the NSU screws came loose with only very minimal pressure. Thanks again.
'09 DR650 just turned 6K miles today and about 20 miles from home exhaust got a little bit louder. About 10 miles got a whole lot louder. Figured it was a crack somewhere on the head pipe as that where the sound was coming from.
Thought about stopping and worried a little about doing engine damage but had no other way to get home so babied it the last 10 miles.
WTF! The head pipe is broken clean off at the flange where it bolts up and there is about 1/2" gap 360 degrees, actually looks like someone cut it off with a rough blade hacksaw.
Is this a common occurence?
Only motor mods are opened up breather box with DT-1 air filter, Pro-Cycle jet kit, and GSXR1000 muffler with Kientech mid-pipe on OEM header.
Anyone have a spare oem header or is there a better option.
Sounds to me like someone got over zealous grinding the internal header weld. You can go too far!
You might could check with a sign shop for a piece of white vinyl for a few pennies. That's what I did for added colour to my helmet. Counter person says "I don't know what to charge for a 6" square piece of scrap, just buy something here next time you need a sign."
Know nothing about machining. Are those welds "cleaned up" by hand or is it all mechanized?
Finished installing my hayabusa muffler today and went out for a test ride. At 60 I pegged the throttle and the bike bogged down. I assume I need to go one higher on my Main jet? I have a tm-40 from procycle and it came with a bunch of jets. My air box is cut. I went from cut air box and stock muffler to cut box and hayabusa muffler.
When I did mine I used a die grinder with a with a carbide cone bit. If you take too much out it will leave the weld weak enough to vibrate crack. Once that starts it will break all the way around eventually. I ended up putting FMF Power bomb head pipe and Two Brothers mid pipe from Jesse at Kientech with my GSXR Can. Works great and the power bomb header has clearance at the frame down tube where the regular FMF oversize header does not. Good set up, very happy with the results.
You can grind the stock pipes' weld for somewhat more flow- which I did at first- but I really don't think it is worth the trouble for what you gain and the run the risk of going too far. I would never do it again in retrospect.
Yep look here:
I ground the stocker as well, did have some ugly lumps but I can't imagine my grinding did anything noticeable. I found an oversize FMF header on fleabay and am very happy with it, fit is fine. Probably added 10 hp , not. But it does look much more macho than that puny stocker.
I'll have a spare stocker to send you as soon as I get the fmf powerbomb I ordered. Should only be another couple days before it gets here...
I have never bought that mod as legit ... and I never did it. That's one of hottest areas on the whole engine. Also, some guys put a jack up under the header to raise the front. With a thinner header weld ... might risk it further?
But must admit ... haven't heard of any other cracked or broken exhaust flanges to to grinding down this weld. So who knows?
A jack under the header? :huh
Hmmm....I seriously doubt the previous owner did any grinding. I bought the bike with 3500 miles and it was 100% stock at that time. I've not done any grinding nor have I ever removed or even touched the head pipe/flange.
I'll take some pics tomorrow and post.
Just curious as to why it would snap like that and whether or not this is a common occurrence. So far sounds like an isolated event.
So is it possible that I'm running really lean and it cracked due to excesssive heat?
Bikes seems to run great and carb is jetted per instructions with the ProCycle jet kit.
It does have a lot of red/yellow clay caked on it from off-road riding, didn't really think I needed to wash it like the Harleys it shares the garage with.
I would not venture a guess on this. I suppose it's possible ... but as I said above ... not heard about this happening. Hope you get her fixed up and back on the road!
Maybe another DR owner can compare your header area with theirs ... to confirm if ground down or not. That mod is on about 100 "first things to to on your DR" lists
1. Header Weld Grind.
So lots of riders do it. I'm just not convinced it makes a damn bit of
difference (in terms of power) and has potential to cause problems ...
It might also be caused by forcing in some way your midpipe and muffler fitting. If it didn't just slide together, and had some pressure on it on assembly, it may have stressed the weakest bit.
guys, go check your NSU screws if you haven't. I just checked. one of them is so loose. I could turn it with one finger.
I did it without taking the clutch out. it was pain in the ass. they are now tighten and safety wired. I still consider myself lucky
bike has 7800 miles. 2001
Over 60% more surface area.
May be more prone to cracking on the edge of the weld, but I'm willing to risk it.
Oh, and that was 5 1/2 years ago.