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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.
Have you seen this update
What type of screwdriver did you use to get in there?
I have about the same mileage and really need to do mine.
Some folks use a screwdriver bit and a wrench. We used one of these with the back side of the "neck" filed down to give a bit more clearance. It's a little fiddley but works just fine, we've used it on three bikes now. Remove, degrease, and loctite one screw at a time or the whole assembly will want to pop out as it's got a spring under there.
good to know, need to do mine ASAP....BTW there is oil resistant threadlocker available, plan to use it when I do the job, especially if I don't remove the clutch basket
any chance there is enough room to get one of these in there?
I'm looking at getting a cover for the DR. I've been sharing the carport with Skunkwife and don't want her cooties to get on the bike.
so the question is, what size cover to get? XL/ XXL any body have a recomendation on brand?
needs to fit over soft panniers, no windscreen
I tried that and also one that had an angled handle, neither fit in there well enough to tighten anything. I only used it to take the old screws out though, got Allen heads and drilled them for safety wire to put in. I know that a lot of people have had great luck with Locktite but ... I was too lazy to remove the clutch and didn't figure that I could degrease the holes very well without better access, also I have seen plastic have a bad reaction to Locktite and disintegrate. I didn't want to have to be fishing pieces of the NSU out of the sump. So old fashioned wire was my choice, it is a real pia to do it underneath the clutch but I got it done. When all was said and done, it probably would have been quicker and easier to remove the clutch (doah, not like that hasn't been already said but sometimes you just have to try...)! The worst part of the job for me was the hours that I spent getting the old gasket off. Mine was in pretty good shape and I could probably put a bit of sealer on and been fine but I had a new gasket so ....
Neither of my NSU screws was 'loose' (as in falling out) but I could not detect ANY 'breaking torque' in turning one of them out, the other required very little effort to start turning.
I also have a stock header; just went to the FMF... PM me if needed
I wonder if I ground that selector down if it would fit better?
Surely someone has to make an offset driver that would fit well enough... but then I haven't been in there, and it may be more complex than I'm thinking in getting up under the clutch plates.
Couple of pics.
This is what I found when I got home....
Doesn't look like anyone has done any grinding...
It is 'really interesting' getting anything in there. One of those cases where you can see what you need to do but once you fit something in ... you can't turn the fastener much. I ended up grinding an Allen wrench, way down to where there was barely enough shank to fit into the screw head to replace my screws. Even if you grind everything off the back side of that driver, I am not sure that it will fit but obviously something will. I did get the screws out, I just don't recall what I ended up using as every 'screw turning thing' I had was out at the time. You will get it done but don't plan on it being quick or easy.
TREE used this. There are more photos and info in the link.
My real concern here is for your valves. When the header is broken like that ... the head is open directly to cold air rushing in onto red hot valves.
In some cases the cold air can cause valves to warp a bit.
I know our Auto mechanic guys here know about this. Is this of concern?
Or would one need to run for hours and hours like this to have a bad out come on valves?
I ruined a Go Cart lawnmower motor once, header pipe broke off. 11 year old kids? ... cool! LOUD! We kept riding. Motor didn't run too good after that!
I've always been skeptical of the old 'warp your valves' claim. I can't see how a little bit of cool air could do any harm. Especially since the exhaust valve heads get a blast of cool air on every intake stroke anyway.
My own opinion of where this old wives tale came from is this: If the motor had a restrictive exhaust and loosing the whole system caused the fuel mixture to become too lean - then you could easily damage the exhaust valves,
I did it myself instead of paying $40 for the decal.
Thanks for the help Tokyoklahoma.
-Krylon Fusion for plastic- White gloss and black gloss.
Painter's tape and an exacto:
Peeling away the stencil:
Prepping for paint (I had already done the white coating):
Burning up the valves was the first thing I thoguht of and in the forefront of my mind while riding home.
I really babied it and it seemed to run fine at low rpms, albiet loud, never reved beyond half-throttle.
Debating on just picking up a take-off OEM or going with the FMF PowerBomb stainless header.
Anyone know if the PowerBomb will bolt up to the OEM sized midpipe from Kientech or will I need the larger diameter midpipe....if so I'll just go with another OEM.
And does the PowerBomb really do much for performance?
Really! Removing the clutch isn't that big a deal. Nothing to be afraid of! Plus, it's an opportunity to inspect the steel plates for hot spots and the clutch basket fingers for wear. It doesn't take any more time to remove the clutch than it takes to dink around grinding tools and turning little screws 1/12 of a turn at a time. Once you have the clutch cover off it only makes sense to inspect everything you can while you're in there.
It does. You just have to use the stock muffler gasket.
Alright, so how about a block of wood through the rear wheel to keep it from turning, then just unbolting the center clutch basket bolt?
I guess that's not too difficult... I just don't want to have to buy a clutch tool I may only use once or twice. I have an old-school torque wrench that will get it back to about 36 ft/lbs, give or take... ten, lol.