the DR650 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.

  1. rogor

    rogor Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2012
    Oddometer:
    51
    Location:
    Sydney, Aus
  2. dickensheets

    dickensheets smprparatus

    Joined:
    Dec 8, 2009
    Oddometer:
    312
    Location:
    Las Cruces, NM
    I had same issue years ago. I wired a remote switch in a discreet location on the side of the house. I've since seen them offered with keypads for ciphers. I can open the garage from outside the house now as long as the power is on.
  3. Midnightventure

    Midnightventure -

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2008
    Oddometer:
    770
    Location:
    Eldon,Mo
    On my big bike I took a small remote, opened it up and soldered in switch with leads on it. Then put in a sandwich bag and installed behind a panel with the switch installed in a hole I drilled in the panel.
  4. shaddix

    shaddix Banned

    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2012
    Oddometer:
    647
    Location:
    Central AL
    I replaced my brake fluid tonight on the front... didn't realize I needed a socket for the rear so it still has the old stuff.

    Anyway, how do I know if I did it correctly? I used a syringe and pumped it up from the caliper to the reservoir instead of using the lever to pump it out. I then did a few pumps with the lever doing it the normal way to make sure no air in the caliper. I can pull on the lever and it activates the brakes early in the available movement of the lever, but if I pull harder I am capable of pulling the lever back to the grip. The pads are brand new...
  5. Ren20

    Ren20 Finding Touge

    Joined:
    Jan 25, 2012
    Oddometer:
    111
    Some one show me how to adjust the clutch properly?

    As you recall, I did the NSU screw fix Saturday. Tried to put the clutch release arm back to original position. but the clutch lever has no tension. Does the arm need to be in specific angle before I adjust the cable?

    I did a search. Someone mentioned the release arm could be in a wrong position.

    teach me please
  6. Fire Escape

    Fire Escape Long timer

    Joined:
    Apr 13, 2007
    Oddometer:
    1,706
    Location:
    Epsom, NH

    I bought them very slightly used with Dunlop Roadsmart tires installed. 120 on front and 150 rear, the rear has more than adequate clearance but doesn't seem like it will fit when you first try to 'negotiate' it into place. There is probably 'racier' rubber that could be used but these are definitely more than racy enough for my meager skills or courage to challenge.


    Bruce
  7. VooDooDaddy

    VooDooDaddy Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2009
    Oddometer:
    163
    Location:
    SW Iowa
    I just did my NSU screws a few days ago as well. I noticed on the inside of the clutch cover/left side engine cover, where the clutch rod fits into the cover/case, there are serrated 'teeth' on both the inside of the cover and the end of the clutch rod. These teeth need to engage each other. Basically when you installed the engine/clutch cover, the teeth of the clutch rod should have been at about a 3 o'clock position as you look at the bike from the left side while installing the cover.

    While I'm not sure I am using the correct terminology for these parts/covers, etc., this is the best way I can explain the process. I would hazard a guess that when you re-installed the clutch/engine cover; these sets of 'teeth' are not engaging each other....?

    When I did the NSU fix, I removed and re-installed the entire clutch assembly. It all went back together rather smoothly, and the bike runs/rides perfectly upon the test ride almost immediately after the repair.
  8. Escaped

    Escaped Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jul 8, 2006
    Oddometer:
    493
    Location:
    Northern California
    Sounds like you have air in the system. You need to pump fluid from the reservoir through the brake line out the caliper until it runs clear. Pump until tight, loosen bleed valve, squirt, hold lever, tighten bleed valve, repeat. You cant short cut it.
    Use bleed tube on nipple of course.



    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2
  9. LucasLeader

    LucasLeader Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2010
    Oddometer:
    296
    Location:
    Madras, OR
    We installed some of these at my old job: http://www.biketronics.com/products/BT-385-Crib-Clicker-%2d-Garage-Door-{47}-Gate-Opener.html

    A ziploc bag is a lot cheaper.
  10. LucasLeader

    LucasLeader Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2010
    Oddometer:
    296
    Location:
    Madras, OR
    I used the same method as you with the syringe and it worked fine. To get some of the air out you can hold the wheel and push the caliper out and then pump the lever. This can help firm it out. Also you can tie the lever down overnight and some of the air will work its way out of the line.
  11. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2009
    Oddometer:
    7,661
    Location:
    SE Denver-ish
    It's easy once you understand it. I'm guessing you just need to rotate the arm clock wise, one tooth on the spline. If that isn't enough, try two teeth.

    Here are pics and more info.

    You're trying to get the arm to rotate freely between pic 4 and 5.
    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=18296607&postcount=33

    VooDooDaddy mentioned the spline on the clutch itself has to face the front of the bike (first pic in the link). I don't if the cover will go on if the spline is pointing any other direction. It spins freely and is easy enough to bump out of position.
  12. Magnum Noel

    Magnum Noel Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 19, 2010
    Oddometer:
    198
    Location:
    Wellington NZ
    Thanks DEVAN8101, ROGOR. BULL600 [hehe], DICKENSHEETS, LUCUSLEADER and MIDNIGHTVENTURE.
    MidNight I"m thinking I might go with your idea sounds great and relatively cheap.
    cheers everyone:nod
  13. Thumper Dan

    Thumper Dan Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 9, 2011
    Oddometer:
    329
    Location:
    Australia, Northern NSW
    I did exactly the same thing and made the mistake of carefully marking the spline etc with a texture before removing. I put it back on exactly to the mark and low and behold, now clutch.

    I thought I botched something up big time but remembered the 'clockwise' technique on this forum and it fixed it. I'm still not sure how the clutch engages, as there seems to be minimal movement in the actual clutch itself. But anyway, it works. :evil

    Take your time and you'll work out it . :D

    cya
  14. GSF1200S

    GSF1200S Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jul 14, 2012
    Oddometer:
    976
    Location:
    Austin, Texas
    I did the same thing- marked it only to find out that didnt help :lol3

    I basically lined the cover up, started turning the top shaft on the cover clockwise and slipped the cover on. I then made sure all the slack was out as I slipped the clutch arm (connected to the clutch cable) on. I then made sure the lever had a little slack by adjusting the cable at the lever with the adjuster.
  15. kezzajohnson

    kezzajohnson kezza

    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2007
    Oddometer:
    1,730
    Location:
    Cairns - Queensland Australia
    Here's a pic of my needle wear at around 35000km after having the small washer that came with dyno jet kit placed under the nylon washer to raise the needle slightly. I now run th DJ needle.

    [​IMG]
  16. Albie

    Albie Kool Aid poisoner

    Joined:
    Mar 31, 2004
    Oddometer:
    10,067
    Location:
    NWA
    Kind of an expensive solution, but works.

    http://www.motoadv.com/products/Flash2Pass-Garage-Opener.html
  17. motolab

    motolab Long timer

    Joined:
    Feb 16, 2006
    Oddometer:
    2,870
    Needle wear as in the picture is the result of slide guide wear in its advanced stages, when the slide becomes constrained by the needle in the emulsion tube rather than by the slide guide. The emulsion tube's outlet will be be enlarged and/or ovaled, and the slide is likely to have an enlarged and/or ovaled needle hole along with exhibiting vertical grooving on the downstream side. I'd be very surprised if the slide guide, emulsion tube, and slide were not in need of replacement. You can verify by having a look at the indentations in the bottom corners adjacent to the bore (not to be confused with the round indentations). If they are less than .010" (0.25mm) deep, the guide should be replaced. Non-nickel plated emulsion tubes are pretty much guaranteed to be worn out when the guide is worn more than .010" (0.25mm). Nickel plated versions are a more wear resistant, but I don't know by how much. Have a look at:

    http://www.moto-lab.com/<wbr>gallery/view?itemid=298, http://www.moto-lab.com/<wbr>gallery/view?itemid=299, http://www.moto-lab.com/<wbr>gallery/view?itemid=300, http://www.moto-lab.com/<wbr>gallery/view?itemid=301, http://www.moto-lab.com/<wbr>gallery/view?itemid=302, http://www.moto-lab.com/<wbr>gallery/view?itemid=304, http://www.moto-lab.com/<wbr>gallery/view?itemid=303 and http://www.moto-lab.com/gallery/view?itemid=305.

    Perhaps the slide, slide guide, and emulsion tube out of the carb you got the needle and diaphragm from could be used? Or why not the whole carb?

    Regards,

    Derek
  18. thetable

    thetable Long timer

    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2008
    Oddometer:
    1,487
    Location:
    Western Loudoun Co, VA
    I am running it on my DR-Tard, and it feels incredible, much more linear than any other setup I've run on other bikes. I can't directly compare to the stock setup on the DR, as I bought mine with the Brembo, and big rotor, but I can tell you that the Brembo lever/EBC supermoto rotor/EBC caliper relocation bracket/stock caliper is the most linear brake feeling I've ever experienced, even moreso than the few bikes I've ridden and owned that came stock with radial MCs and calipers.

    Now on the same note, I'm not sure that I would have dropped the money on the Brembo unit, but since it came included, I really like it. Maybe one day, I'll even get around to putting a brake light switch on it.
  19. gplassm

    gplassm Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2009
    Oddometer:
    591
    Location:
    Western Mass
    After a decent run with my bone stock 1996 DR650, I sold it to my brother this past weekend. I also sold my street legal KDX200. The DR was pretty. It was fun - even two-up. It was a better street bike than it was a dirt bike. It was as reliable as a cinder block. I will miss it, but it was time to move on. My brother (pplassm) intends to install RMZ suspension, and make it into a good dirt bike - something I never wanted or expected from it. I don't know what I will buy next. Maybe a CRF250L, maybe a KTM RFS. I am pretty much wide open to suggestions. I want something more dirt capable, but still commuter friendly. I hope find something that combines the best qualities of the KDX and the DR650.
    FWIW - Out of all the bikes I have owned, my wife liked riding on the back of the big DR the best. She ended up sitting in the little space between the end of the seat and the rack, but said that it was the only bike that she could ride on for hours, without needing a break. I had lowered the passenger pegs quite a bit.
    With that - I'm out. I wish all of you well!
  20. eakins

    eakins Butler Maps

    Joined:
    May 29, 2002
    Oddometer:
    19,546
    Location:
    Fort Collins, Colorado
    I want something more dirt capable, but still commuter friendly.

    you might check out the wr250r. with weight reduction mods and suspension work it does both.