Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.
Sure, A google search with the part number should turn up the applications
Maybe EBC's website can help.
I can add this, the 320mm EBC from Procycle, fits my DR650 (duh).
Part #: 1710138
ROTOR EBC ST SM6094C
EU BARCODE 5 || 050953 || 315282 ||
USA BARCODE 0 || 84794 || 30087 || 5
And likely won't until the end of February
I rode today and will probably ride Sunday and Tuesday as well.
everything is there, i got new cushions and have the metal colars in them.
In my opinion, anyone who would buy a new DR650 is either very mechanically ignorant, desperate, or simply not very smart. I know that statement might seem kinda harsh, but you have to realize if you could find a nice 1996 DR650 somewhere, it would be essentially the same motorcycle as a 2012 DR650.
I bought a pretty nice 2000 DR650 late last summer from a really nice guy moving from Nebraska to Flordia (hope things are going well for you Jerry) for $1800. The bike had just a tick over 10,000 miles, which is nothing to a DR motor. The 2000 DR650 I now own was mostly ridden on the street and was very clean and well maintained. While I could have chosen to ride it AS-IS, and simply continue to do routine maintenance; and probably ride it for many years and then re-sell it; I have chosen to take the money I have saved on NOT buying anywhere close to new, and I am in the process of transforming my soon-to-be thirteen year old bike into one that is much better than a new bike at far under what a new bike costs.
You asked our advice, and my advice is to find a well-cared for used DR650, buy it, replace all the consumables it needs, continue to do routine maintenance, ride it, and enjoy it knowing you saved thousands of dollars over someone who bought a new DR650; which as I mentioned is essentially the same bike you will be riding regardless of model year.
Majority off road, definitely the emulators. I tried both.
Paid $2500 for mine an 08 that had (get this) 1000 miles on it. Bought it from a dealer and it even came with a warranty. Haggle & shop around a bit and you'll be pleasantly surprised at what you can find.
Did a google search with the part number and found what I was looking for.
I did a fork swap so the DR650 part number is way different.
You realize that if everyone stops buying new bikes, you won't be able to find those low mileage gems at a great price.
Santa brought me a Ruger 10/22 for Christmas. I would like to take it upstate, NY to a friends property to shoot/hunt, and do this on my dr. The problem is, I live in NY, and have to travel through NYC to get there. I can't keep the gun visible without attracting attention. The alternative I'm thinking of is strapping a large duffel bag to the rear rack, and removing the stock from the gun to make it smaller. IIRC the stock is 30" long.
thanks in advance...
Might consider a folding stock like this:
Inexpensive and simple.
Check your PM, you got mail from a Northern NM FF.
Definitely go for the RaceTech Emulators. I did mine w/ Emulators and .48 springs and like it a lot. (195lbs without my gear)
When I bought my NEW DR (well, year old on the floor) I watched craigslist and such for 3 months for a used DR. Not one to be found then. I got tired of waiting. Plus, I got a bike I know hasn't had someone testing friction additives on clutch disk and such.
Of course, like 2 weeks after I bought mine there was one on CL for $3500. I paid $5000 for a new DR. So I spent $1500 more and had a brand new one. Doesn't seem like an ignorant move to me.
And someone calling me "mechanically ignorant" would be like saying the Pope doesn't know much about religion!
it's a Rossi .22 takedown carbine that shoots shorts, longs, and long rifle. It fits easily into a standard paintball gun case as you see in the pic. Also easily fits incognito into a standard duffel, knapsack etc. One of my favorite rifles to shoot besides its extreme portability.
Just so happens I have one new in the box right behind me. I just measured it and it is 29.6" Good luck.
Wow, nice to meet a fellow tiger on the forum! I really think we can beat LSU as long as Tahj shows up. And thanks for the advice; I have been looking on craigslist for a while but I'm in no rush to buy so hopefully something will come up in a couple months.
A bit harsh I'd say.
There are plenty of good reasons to buy new. Sure, there are good deals around on used DR's if you're patient ... and lucky. They are reliable bikes for the most part ... but they do have one or two SHOW STOPPER issues.
Main advantage of buying NEW is the warranty ... and the ability to buy an Extended Warranty up to 5 years. This covers things like 3rd gear failures.
Rare as they are ... if it happens in 5 years ... you get a NEW motor.
That's a lot of riding.
Next is a zero interest loan with a LOW monthly payment. This just works for some folks.
But for the OP, "New" may not be his best choice. Impossible to know if he'll even like the DR650. If you buy NEW, add a warranty, add $1000 in extras, then decide you don't like the bike ... well when you go to sell it off you'll take a major hit.
What the OP needs to know is that a showroom stock DR650 is no where near what a modified DR650 can be. So whatever DR you get ... to get the best out of it plan to do some modifications and adding some extras. There are THOUSANDS of posts here detailing what those extras are ... and what they do for you. Good luck! My Advice: TEST RIDE TEST RIDE
If that's the case, I'd got with cartridge emulators over intimators.
Well I put on a D606 on the front of my bike today using the Ziptie method. I thought everything went great until I started on the rear (the front is back on the bike) and I notice that the tube stem has a beveled washer and nut on the inside of the rim and a nut on the outside. The new tubes I put in only came with one nut and the beveled washer, so I used the beveled washer on the inside of the rim and the nut on the outside. No nut on the inside.
Is this a problem or should I just wait until I wear out the front to install a nut on the inside of the rim? Or should I go ahead and pull the front and make it right?