the DR650 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.

  1. heirhead

    heirhead Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2009
    Oddometer:
    606
    Location:
    On the water in SoCal
    Hello,

    Thanks for the replies on the heated grips. Will be getting Symtec on Mon from HappyTrail as
    they throw in a pair of grips. What a tightass!. What could go wrong on install? Blue to blue, hook up to brown in headlight,
    AAAARGH!!
    6 million pages on it and I will be lost. Hardly can screw in a light bulb.

    Stay warm,

    Heirhead
  2. Magnum Noel

    Magnum Noel Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 19, 2010
    Oddometer:
    198
    Location:
    Wellington NZ
    Sounds like the same problem I had. Got a replacement set under warranty from the vendor. Kept the grips but the rest of the gear was completely different. Havn't had a problem since.
    ps. Mine are hooked up directly to the battery as they recomend.
  3. heirhead

    heirhead Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2009
    Oddometer:
    606
    Location:
    On the water in SoCal
    Hello,

    If you are going down the 5, I'll buy you a pint at the Harbor in Dana Point, Doheny Beach.
    Julian Pie Co is in Santa Isabel but its best if you go 7 more miles up the mountain and have Chili and pie in Julian.
    Chilly but usually sunny, great riding through town then south on 79, left on sunshine hwy, over pass and on to SD.
    Beautiful ride, no traffic. Don't tell anyone.

    Heirhead
  4. greer

    greer Long timer

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    Jul 4, 2005
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    3,871
    Location:
    Glasgow, Kentucky
    You will love them and wonder why the heck you waited so long. Be sure to insulate the left bar. I like silicone tape, but folks use electrical tape, heat shrink, cork, ..... you'll get a ton of info when you Google.

    Sarah
  5. planemanx15

    planemanx15 Long timer

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    Dec 4, 2009
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    1,009
    Location:
    Long Island, NY

    Behind the head light cowl there should be an unused port you can tap into. If not behind the engine is one, right below the fuel tank. Just be be sure they are good, conenct your volt meter to it with the key on and read 12v, key off should be 0. If you have a vapor dash board, the stock speedo light makes a good keyed 12v point.

    I use the speedo light as my 12v plug, and the unused port behind the cowl for my grips. Never had an issue.
  6. justcountry04

    justcountry04 Been here awhile

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    Dec 31, 2010
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    Gilchrist County Floriduh (AKA farm country)
    Hey Ive been meaning to see if anyone has a problem with the extended fuel screw from pro cycle? I bought a jet kit with the extended screw included. I noticed right away that the shape was a little different. but installed anyway. After test and tune time, my first ride out with a friend of mine, I stopped after a few miles and the bike died. I started it back up and died again. fired it up and it would rev and stuff but would not idle...... my friend noticed that the extended screw had fallen out and luckily was laying perilously between the starter and the head. I rode back home and checked everything out and ended up puttin the oem screw back in as it fit more securely. the depth of the oring seating area was too deep on the aftermarket one and would not hold the screw in with tension because of this. anybody else have this issue???
  7. Mambo Dave

    Mambo Dave Backyard Adventurer

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    Oct 7, 2011
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    I can't recall, but isn't there also a spring in there to maintain tension?

    I have one (the one that came with the pro-cycle kit for the carb) and ... well... I haven't honestly checked to see if it was backing out, but the bike runs too well for me to even attempt to turn it.

    Edit: just found a diagram

    part number 32?

    Any chance you lost yours on the replacement change-out? If you changed it while the carb was still mounted on the bike, the chances are good it sprung out or fell out maybe after you pulled the screw out - you may not have seen it.

    [​IMG]
  8. Rusty Rocket

    Rusty Rocket Life behind "Bars"

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    Trying to leave CT
    :lol3

    Sounds like a Yogi Berra comment.

    "Nobody eats at that restaurant, it's too crowded"
  9. thumpididump

    thumpididump MacGyver

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    Germany
    I've used the trick described in #6 many times on motorcycles and also on on 1970-80's snowmobiles. Works like a charm in sub-freezing temps. #2 is also a good tip for engines that don't like starting in cold temps....



  10. justcountry04

    justcountry04 Been here awhile

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    yea i checked, I have the spring and the oring and the washer in proper order. the problem is the machined area where all the spring washer and oring sit is longer on the extended screw therefor it never has tension on it even with the screw fully seated , which cannot happen of course, I think I may have got the wrong screw, but the taper is proper, its just the stepped down area is longer. you'd think as proud as procycle is of there stuff, they'd put the right screw in.
  11. rockydrxrvr

    rockydrxrvr Multi Meter Meathead

    Joined:
    May 9, 2006
    Oddometer:
    166
    Location:
    Oregon Mountains, Great Riding,Not too cold.

    Thank you very much for the info, and will rewire accordingly. ---but a bit disappointed the Oxford Controller would not totally shut off the green L.E.D. light.
  12. Mambo Dave

    Mambo Dave Backyard Adventurer

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    IIRC, my new screw from the kit was different at the tapered end (which I believed may have been on purpose to better control the mix), and it may have, indeed, been longer by a bit. Are we talking, like, 2 or 3mm longer here, or is yours 10mm longer or something?
  13. Rusty Rocket

    Rusty Rocket Life behind "Bars"

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    Trying to leave CT
    When I used to ice-race, the common thing to do was park the bike so that the exhaust from your truck blew on your engine.

    I had a '75 Yamaha 400mxb that for some reason couldn't be kicked over if the temp was below freezing. I don't mean it wouldn't start, you couldn't move the kickstarter with your foot. Once you got it started it was good all day. What I used to do, (NOT recommended), was heat the bottom of the gear cases with Sterno.:D
  14. justcountry04

    justcountry04 Been here awhile

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    yea 2 or 3 mm is about right, it was enough that the screw wouldnt tighten down. Im thinking I might need a new spring or something
  15. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

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    Mine, but I don't remember the vendor.

    [​IMG]

    :thumb
  16. macrae85

    macrae85 Been here awhile

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    Sep 28, 2010
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    391
    Location:
    New Zealand,Scotland,Arizona USA.
    For auction on the 30th January on Copart.com a well loaded DR650......goes to prove 1 thing,that casing protectors dont always save casings!
    [​IMG]

    Lot # 27227712.
  17. Mambo Dave

    Mambo Dave Backyard Adventurer

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    I'm pretty darned sure that's the way mine was from ProCycle... just a tad longer. Since I'm guessing it fits up into a hole, 2 or 3mm, with spring tension, shouldn't be the factor to allow it to fall out... I'd think it would have been tensioned even if you had hit something... but you shoudln't be hitting something up in there with the tapered tip of it.

    The one ER70 pictured wasn't like mine.. mine was brass, I'd guess, but I can't recall anything other than the tapered cone seeming longer.

    I'm at a loss.
  18. procycle

    procycle Long timer

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    Oh, it's definitely the right screw.
    The idle mixture screw we put in the jet kit comes with its own longer spring and a new oring and washer. If you try to use the stock spring you probably won't have any tension on the screw.
  19. dobbo

    dobbo Long timer

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    Nov 17, 2008
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    I also had problems with the 'extended fuel screw'; I found I could not get it to fully seat, without using pliers to screw it fully in; therefore, I could not get the right amount of turns when I backed it out . I thought this a bit risky, as I might strip the thread from the housing, so I switched back to the OEM screw, which appears to wind in without as much resistance as the Ext fuel screw.
    Because I could not get the 'Extended Fuel Screw' to seat properly, in meant that I could not be sure on the amount of turns out the screw was.... ie: what I thought was 2 turns out, in reality may have been 3 or 4.

    Runs fine with the OEM screw, was always rough with the EFS.

    I just put it down to a bad batch of EFS, so have stuck with the OEM screw. (Being in Australia, the cost of postage, negates the return of such a small item)

    cheers
    Dobbo
  20. procycle

    procycle Long timer

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    You have a different idle mixture screw. The one pictured a few posts back is the "Kouba" screw which was originally a Keintech product. It has about 2 or 3 additional screw threads which sometimes have difficulty screwing into the 'unused' internal threads in the carburetor. The screw included in the jet kit is a genuine Mikuni part which has a longer shaft which eliminates the occasional problem with the 'virgin threads'. But it does require the longer spring that comes with it.