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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.
Look again - it's there!
FInally found it. Thank you.
Hey guys - are rear brake pedals all the same? Bent mine up pretty good and plan to put a new one on.
that thing isn't too bad.
This was as far as I got by 5pm today. Maybe have it wrapped up tomorrow if I'm ultra super lucky.
I've never seen an aftermarket replacement. I think it's just mild steel so you should be able to bend it back into shape. I've had to do it with my shift lever.
The question has been asked: "How heavy is the DR engine?" You could tell us here AND post it up in Krusty's DR Index (Hiya Krusty, thanks again for the DR650SE INDEX ). Or you could let us down and be forgotten forever.
Here: Topic 12:
I bought two of the first batch Procycle made up.
I will see what I can do!
I just know it should be 1ounce lighter now than it was before
I'm sure you're correct. Removing all that alum from the piston for valve clearance must be good for a multiple of pounds.
noob question, why do you have to remove the motor to put the new high comp piston in? Can't it be done whilst motor is in the bike?? I'm sure there is another reason.
I'm not sure if it can be. Seems like there's a real possibility. Someone will undoubtedly chime in that knows for sure.
But by the time you have it far enough apart to attempt to remove the jug in the frame, it's three more motor mount bolts and a couple other misc garbage to have it on the ground. Literally less than 10 more minutes to have it on the bench.
Too bad my bench is over flowing with other garbage and there was no room for the motor.
Just a tad over 100 pounds.
Yes, the top end can be serviced in the frame. It's not much more work to remove the whole thing but leaving the bottom end in the frame gives you a built in 'engine stand' to hold it firmly when installing the cylinder, rotating the crankshaft, torquing the head bolts, etc.
Funny I am going to be doing some work on mine and that was my thought. I like the engine stand aspect of the frame. I need to do valve seals (maybe guides, but hope not) and rings. But just going to go with a hi-comp piston, may also pull a favor and throw in a cam.
I have an FCR and open airbox, but a stock pipe which i want to stay with and not sure how the cam will work with it, and if it is worth it. I want to look at the stock grind versus the 223 grind and make some decisions. I am most interested if the lobe centers change at all.
I just did this, and yes it can easily be done by removing the top end with the engine still in the bike. I will also tell you that it is MUCH easier to remove the bottom end with the top end already disassembled. It was a serious PITA to get it in and out completely assembled and I wont be doing it that way again.
maybe it's a perspective thing. Wrestle with a Honda V4 by yourself and the DR is a flippin cupcake.
Been there, done that!
Long ago I learned to dislike servicing V4s. So many things have to be done twice. It's like working on 2 motors at once...
So here is how my conrod small end looks like:
Obviously it is far from perfect, but how bad do you guys think it actually is?
As a side note, I was checking the ebay for complete crankshafts (second hand) and I found this one. Just look at the last picture of that item... seems just as bad as mine, if not worse. What struck me is that the seller states "good condition".
I'd really appreciate some input on this... How bad is the situation? what should I expect from this engine? Maybe at some point in the future I will manage to replace the conrod, but I need to know on the short term, do I need to worry? The bike will see maybe 5000kms/year, with a stock piston, and I don't run it hard.
Bathroom scale said 107.5lbs (with oil)