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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.
Bathroom scale said 107.5lbs (with oil)
Yeah, the eBay item is worse. Obviously the seller does not know much but at leas there's a good photo of the small end to keep you from wasting any money on it.
How bad is yours? Well it's not at the point that it would self destruct immediately but it's a long way from being long term reliable. Running that rod will be a gamble on your part. It might last one year it might last ten years. It might make a rattling top end noise for the rest of the life of motor - or not. All the power the motor makes is transmitted through that little area between the rod and the pin. If this came into my shop (back when I was in the repair business) I would not put it back together with that kind of damage. Not because I wanted to sell the customer a new crankshaft but because as a professional you have to stand behind your work. You can't stand behind a motor put together with marginal parts.
Doing your own work and making your own decisions you can take that gamble if you want to. If or when there is a problem down the road you won't have some else to blame.
two questions. i have 32k miles on the '06 DR, she's due for some carb work. stock needle jet is Y-5M but it's also $40 and i dont wanna spend $40 on a frickin needle jet unless it's made of unobtainium. also need a float needle and they're only sold with the float "assembly" whatever the hell that means... i'm running the KTM needle so i'm willing to give the X-6 needle jet a try, i suppose.
i need alternative Mikuni part numbers for the following items please:
needle jet and float valve needle and a source. thanks.
(please dont try to sell me a DJ jet kit, neither of these items is in one..)
Moose racing has a "rebuild kit" that includes these items. Any Parts Unlimited dealer can get one for you. I'm certain the contents are not genuine Mikuni but probably will fit your budget.
Also, learning how to, and doing the work yourself guarantees that it
is done right. I don't trust anyone to work on my DR.
Hey... I can't seem to find the threads for the Index; sure wish they were stickied at the top of Thumpers. I was wondering where there might be some write-ups on Gold Valve installation. My Fork Solution kit from ProCycle arrived yesterday and I was just looking at the instructions and thought, yeah, I need a write-up. :) I thought there was supposed to be a video, but there wasn't one in the package.
Local shop wants $275 to install them (HAHAHAHAHA) so I definitely will be doing this myself.
Take a look here
I don't let ANYONE work on ANY of my bikes........EVER
It almost impossible to find anyboby that can do ANY work properly anymore.....the art of knowing you're job and having pride in it has died in america
Edit: What's the poor-man's version of the damping rod holder tool?
This is only true if the person doing their own work actually knows what they are doing. Which is not all that common.
Not to put any disrespect on the original poster but he seems to want to leave the half trashed rod in the motor.
You can get one for less than that.
You can get one as part of a rebuild kit.
The X-6 emulsion tube's outlet will be .055 mm (.0022") smaller than the Y-5M's. If the WOT CO trace showed an overly rich mixture in the low to low mid rpm range with fresh components, then perhaps a smaller emulsion tube would be a good idea, but keep in mind that a change of .055 mm is pretty large. Also note that the Y-5M emulsion tube, being nickel plated, will be much more resistant to wear than the X-6.
Since emulsion tube wear is caused by slide guide wear, I would recommend replacing the slide guide. I would expect it to be worn out just based on the mileage. Also inspect the slide for needle hole enlargement/ovaling and grooving on the downstream side.
Have a look at http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=528038.
But at least when we stuff up, we know who to blame, and we've learn't how to get it right next time, one way or another, if it wasn't fatal.
I rarely get anyone to work on any of my stuff, and on the odd occasion I do, its stuffed up 4/5 times anyway and I wonder what I was thinking. And that's not just machinery.
Check the link to Distech's write up for the bolt tool but I think others here posted a 1" square tube will also hold it.
Jeff - you and Distech pulled the tubes apart. My memory is slippin' but I don't think I pulled the tubes since none of my seals were acting up. I think I did the factory lowering on my son's bike without pulling them, too.
Am I remembering incorrectly - can you pull the damper rod without removing the seals & separating the tubes?
Yes, damper rods can be removed without separating the tubes.
I do believe I have to agree completely on that one. The 18 year old kid that works the parts counter and also puts in time back in the shop is not going to care about my bike. Last time a bike of mine saw the inside of a shop, 1984, it came back with a couple of big scratches and they told me nothing was wrong with the motor. A couple of weeks later when I pulled the head and cylinders because I knew something wasn't right I found the piston pin clip missing and the pin had been gouging the cylinder wall. They didn't do it but they told me it ran like it was supposed to when I told them it was making a noise and down on power....
FYI, I got the fork solution kit and rear shock shaft assembly. I called a couple places in town just to ask about recharging the shock and was given the name of a guy that works out of his house. I called him to ask about recharging the shock and after talking to him about his experience, and based on what three shops in town said, I let him do the work. He charged $150 to do the front and rear (front fork solution kit and rear shock shaft assembly). It would have been $100 if I pulled the forks and rear shock and brought those to him, but I figured if I went that far I'd do the whole job, so I dropped the bike off at his house and should have the bike back Sunday.
While we are talking about heads and valves and pistons, I have a question for the collective wisdom of the group. My '96 DR has 27,000 miles on it. As I was wrapping up a 3 month 8K mile ride this summer, it started smoking on start up after sitting overnight. It will smoke for a few minutes, then the smoke goes away. Blue smoke, definitely oil smoke. It only does it after sitting overnight, if I restart it after fueling or stopping for a few minutes, there's no smoke. It's not using oil that I have noticed and runs normal, not down on power at all. My thoughts are rings or valve seals. I was considering buying the high compression piston kit and new valve seals and redoing the top end anyhow before this started. Am I on the right track? Should I just leave it alone and continue to ride it and save the kit for later?
Which is why I wont buy another KTM. Not that I didn't do the work myself, like you said and especially so on the 950, don't let anyone else touch it, it's just that I can't be bothered anymore. Been there done that already.
What the DR lacks in modern components, it makes up for in ease of ownership and that works for me.
But now we know a 'tad' weighs 7.5lbs
Good link. How'd I miss that?
It's right where you thought it should be.