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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.
That sounds like a fair deal to me, if the job comes back done right!
The "info" side of the ProCycle web site is easily overlooked. Someday we'll come up with a more inviting navigation.
Considering it's been in the 20s in my garage for a week or more, I think it's more than fair just so I don't have to thaw my hands out
And a "wish List"
I am surprised that I can get the notice my order has shipped and then I remember what else I was going to order... the next time I placed an order.
While you are upgrading, or for your site upgrade list, I can find different universal items that are listed under other bike listings but not on the DR650 list.
The only one that comes to mind now is the ProGrip Rally Grips.
I found them when I was ordering for my TW200.
I have the Rally Grips on one bike and I want to get them for my other bikes.
Next time I place an order......
There is an advantage to the balky navigation: I can still make my house payments.
As a professional web programmer, I have to admit I'm rather fond of the ProCycle website. There's very little I dislike about it. I like the "everything on one page" catalog design for one.
I do wish they stocked more stuff for the KLX250S though. :)
There was a question about removing the idle fuel screw plug over on DRRIDERS.com. I posted a link to Jessepitt's photo essay on the procedure: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=18727385&postcount=71
I got this response, thanks Jesse.
Jessepitt should do a manual for us rookies. These photos are fantastic!!!!
This is the definitive answer to "THE CAP OVER THE STOCK NEEDLE ADJUSTMENT SCREW."
Even I can do this now!!!
If you don't understand this. You might seriously consider taking the bike to a shop or have someone show you.
My bike does the same thing. Doesn't burn up a noticeable amount of oil and stops smoking after a minute. It's been doing it a lot less lately too. I think the only problem I have with it is being a little embarrassed when I'm warming up my bike and spitting smoke at people walking by me.
I used these pieces and it worked great.
18inch long piece of black 3/4inch I.D. pipe threaded on both ends
4inch long piece of black 3/4inch I.D. pipe threaded on both ends
1 90 degree elbow
A threaded brass cap 1 1/8inch flat to flat. Which looks like this:
I was looking for specs on the stock DR camshaft versus some of the Web grinds and Google sent me to the Pro Cycle page. Got me the info I wanted, so thanks
There are 2 reasons why you don't see grips on the DR page. First, I like to keep the number of 'general' items that folks can usually get at any shop to a minimum - especially on the pages that are so filled out like the DR page. Second, for most folks replacing grips on the DR for the first time can become a nightmare of a job.
Some day we'll have some separate pages for our favorite general items.
Thanks Rob, I consider that high praise coming from a web pro. I try as much as is practical to avoid the things that drive me crazy about other sites. We'll stick to the 'all on one page' format as long as we can. At some point it will get too complicated but that's probably a long way down the road.
I'd love to be listing more stuff for the KLX. At this point we don't have anyone on staff that owns one. I've found it takes having one of the crew owning and riding a particular model to be able to jump in with both feet and work up a complete offering. Yeah, another thing on my 'some day we're going to do that' list.
Sweet, common sense.
That solution will work for sure ... but I might suggest trying the lazy cheapskate's trail side method:
stabilize fork on bench or whatever (or have a helper hold it)
insert correct hex/allen key into damper rod bolt at bottom of fork .
Have someone hold Allen in place ... now Whack it with a hammer! (counter clock please!) Do NOT hit your helper with hammer!
The sudden shock can usually break loose the Damper rod bolt from the damper rod ... without it being held from the inside. Worth a try.
If not ... try the above tool. Also, an air wrench can also work on this same principle. I've done the lazy man's method three times on my DR with success. TIP: when you put it back together do not OVER tighten bolt into damper rod and don't use Loc-Tite.
NOTE: This may not work for KYB forks built on Tuesday by that grouchy guy who over torques everything that passes by. My forks were built by a cute 17 year old girl on a Friday. Gentle hands!
A couple of points to mention:
1) It is likely that the drill will pull itself into the fuel screw when it breaks through the far side of the plug. The result can be just a little nick, mostly ruining the head, or somewhere inbetween. The way to avoid this is to use a drill stop, which, when properly set, will prevent the drill from going any further when it breaks through.
2) I've seen quite a few cracked/broken fuel screw wells. These are the result of the plug cocking as it is being pulled out. The way to avoid this is to tap the hole (I use a M4X.7 tap, which takes a 3.3mm or #30 drill). Grind the point off of the tap (if it has one) for clearance with the head of the fuel screw. Tap only deep enough to get through the plug. Then use a metal tube with squared ends and an ID just larger than the OD of the plug in conjunction with a screw and a washer with the same or larger OD than the tube as a puller to extract the plug. This way it is guaranteed to come out squarely.
3) Shimming the needle clip richens the mixture by lowering the slide rather than by raising the needle (except when the slide is against either stop), as the shim increases the preload on the slide spring.
Got back from Death valley on my DR and loved my wolfman/ramount/teknic/kolpin gear...
if any of you fellow riders want anything let me know...ill hook you up!
How about more pictures?
I want the ProGrip foam rally grips.
No-one has them
Shipping may cost a war pension, but Amazon and Phat Performance show them in stock.