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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.
Can the carb inlet tube on the stock BST be rotated ?
I've probably read your suspension rebuild articles a hundred times each, since those are the upgrades I'm likely to do in the near future. Very, very well written.
If you look at the write up you will see that I use a drill bit with an old, dull counter-sink collar on it for grip and drill it by hand. There is really no way to loose control and damage the screw. I dont even drill all the way through the plug. The plug has a tiny hole already drilled in it which acts as a pilot for the drill bit but also allows a small fine thread screw to be turned a couple threads in if you leave a little bit of the cap when you drill.
Prehaps I should remove a small amount of the spring in order to counter the increased preload?
Carefully, yes. You want to be sure and have a good bite on the tube or it can bend. When I had a stock carb I believe I used a large adjustable wrench on the tube and once it "cracked", I was able to rotate it without harm.
Have been thinking about thicker grips but want to retain my Cramp Buster. Your idea will enable me to keep my Buster.
Same here. My '96 has 20K miles on it. Only after a long period of not starting.
Wow! Just the right colors. U should be selling that rope and idea on the KLR forum, you'll be able to retire in no time
After reading about the throttle grip being bonded to the tube it just made sense to order a new tube with the grips-my time is worth more than the few dollars a new tube costs, and the next grip change will be easy.
Yup. I padded the tube with a shop rag, then applied gently-increasing torque with a wrench until it moved.
Gran Turismo grips are a good option, have been around at least 40 years...they are tapered and soft in the middle, very comfortable for long rides and not too slippery...vintage British bike parts suppliers often carry them
Inerestingly enough, because I lay down a grip's-length of rope across the grip before wreapping it, with the right placing the throttle's "bulge" from that underlying end of rope it acts as sort of a cramp-buster. That, or for both hands at least an ergonomically better bulge up into the palm than a standard purely-round grip.
The neat thing, of course, is experimenting and catering the rope to your needs.
I don't ever want to go back to tiny Japanese grips again.
Sounds time consuming, but safe.
Not drilling all the way through the plug precludes being able to tap the hole, which precludes being able to use a small puller, which opens up the possibility of cocking the plug on the way out, which opens up the possibility of cracking/breaking the fuel screw well.
If you knew that there were benefits to be had from increasing the spring rate, then clipping the spring would be a viable option. If not, you could modify the spring seat on either end of the spring in order to reduce the preload back to normal. The bottom one would be easiest, but the top one could be modified to simultaneously allow the slide to open all the way (as it is, it tops out ~.060" or so short).
Thanks for that. I will have a look at modifying the spring seat rather than the spring length. It make sense that clipping the spring would up the rate just like a fork spring. Will the increased spring tension caused by the needle shim cause a more sluggish throttle response?
So...Are you saying to try a non-USA (adjustable) stock needle, an open airbox, an adjustable idle-mix screw, a 150 Mikuni main jet, and a x40F0x muff with a smoothed header, at sea-level? Should the pilot jet remain stock or go a size bigger?
I'm planning to buy a brand-new DR, maybe this year. I'm willing to experiment before cutting the airbox (permanent), drilling the slide (semi-permanent), or wearing any carb components to questionable condition.
Well that was easy:
Can it be welded, machined smooth, and then heated to relieve molecular tension?
Those are 'replica' grips. Does the original maker still make them?
Wide-ratio 6spd and HD stator output would be cool. I don't think the current DR really needs much that the current aftermarket can't already deliver nicely. The DR-Z400 suspension could be grafted on easily and inexpensively, but could they retain the height-adjustment feature? A windscreen, luggage, 10WHP, comfy seat, knobs, skid, handguards, or huge plastic tank are also easy to add.
Let's hope that Suzuki keeps producing a good base to build from...inexpensively.