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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.
That is pretty entertaining...
What is the throttle position when the problem occurs?
Was the bike ever stored for any length of time?
The fuel screw should be used to adjust the idle mixture. It is not applicable to other openings.
More details would help. Could be several things. Start with simple and cheap things:
1. Run some Sea Foam in your gas for a tank or two. (still surging?)
2. Drain tank, flush, remove petcock and clean fuel inlet filter.
3. Is the air box stock or modified? Is left side cover on bike?
The screw you're referring to is the fuel/air adjustment. Affects idle to one eighth throttle. Use a sheet rock screw to remove tin cover. It's UNDER Carb bowl, hard to see or reach. Rotate carb to gain access. Take sheet rock screw and poke into tin seal ... pull it out. Now you can remove the stock screw and add an extended fuel/air screw. Much easier to adjust with the extended screw.
I used a floor mat made out of closed cell foam sold at Lowes for workshops. While I was working on the bike a lady friend of mine cut out places for the frame rails to go. This mat is about 3/4 of an inch thick, and it sounds exactly the same as before I put the skidplate on.
I do have a question ive been meaning to ask here though- since the mat sits up against the engine, should I worry about it overheating some particular bearing surface somewhere near the bottom of the engine? I know DRs run cool, and I havent worried about it so far since its been cold enough due to winter, but what about summer? Im thinking I might drop the skidplate and remove the stuff and try some spray on stuff, but it sure is nice not hearing any new noises with the skidplate on..
After many weeks of waiting and working on the DR I finished my project, except for new tires next month. Just turned the key off after starting to make sure it still runs. The project was:
1. strip the bike down to its frame and powder coat the frame black
2. clean up all the rims and hubs exhaust and any other component that needed a thorough going through
3. disassemble the previously installed RMZ450 front forks to change the oil to a lighter weight and at the same time shorten the overall travel from 12.2" to 11.5"--- this allowed me to drop the forks into the triple clamps farther than before and tighten up the steering for serious off road handling, while turning the rear preload down a little for a more trail oriented ride
4. also installed a new set of fat bars that I think I will like even better than the previous bars
5. I previously had purchased a new ULY front headlight assembly but opted to put the stock lights back on and sell the ULY headlight since I also recently bought a 2009 KLR for my road riding adventures
6. rewired the BMW plug and cig lighter plug a little nicer
Mate that looks awsome. Well done.
Yep, there could be many reasons why a clutch would need replacing before 15k miles on a DR, but the most likely reason is stated above...the po just plain wore it out through his riding style.
I'm always suspicious of replaced parts like clutches on lower mileage machinery.....makes me wonder what other hidden wear and tear the machine went through to prematurely wear out the clutch.
My exact concern. I thought 15K was a bit early for a new clutch. As I am in no rush I am going to pass on it. Even if it is a good price. A nicer one will show up before it gets warm enough for me to ride here.
if it otherwise looks decent, you could always offer $1500, and then walk away if the seller says no...
I have always cut strips of HD innertubes and squeezed them between the frame and skidplate on all my bikes. I think that much of what people are hearing is the plate vibrating harmonically. This may not be enough for some of you. The DR650 is the quietest bike I have ever owned, I've never had a streetbike so I can't compare what others perceive as noisey.
You definitely want closed cell foam,(like GSF suggests) especially offraod. The bufferpad will soon be adobe. Think about using a "pool noodle" or foam pipe insulation instead.
What size socket do I need for that primary nut. My searches have come up empty ...
That's what I did as well. Seems to work fine for me- of course, I wear earplugs when I ride.
I also use inner tubes to dampen vibration but like any other sane or intelligent person I wear earplugs, so the noise doesn't really bother me.
I bought a piece of compressible foam designed for the purpose but frankly since I always where earplugs I don't notice much difference. I wonder if several coats of Plasti-Dip might work. It is pretty tough, you can cover your whole car with it (might be good for DR side panels!).
Job done well! be proud show it off
looks very Latrodectus hesperus
Is your chain a little loose?
Sorry for not replying sooner and thanks for the PM to remind me.
The area the needle is responsible for is 1/4 opening. The needle should not be used to tune closed throttle even though there may very well be enough overlap to affect it. To illustrate the problem: Let's say that you had tuned the clip position to achieve perfect running at 1/4 opening, and you now raised the needle to richen the mixture at closed throttle. The result will be that the mixture at 1/4 opening will now be too rich, while the effect on closed throttle may or may not be as desired. Closed throttle is solely the responsibility of the fuel screw unless the pilot jet size is out of range. You can test this by evaluating 1/16 to 1/8 opening running and/or by whether or not the engine can be killed at both extremes of the fuel screw's adjustment range. Of these two, the former is absolute (misadjusted float height, clogged/incorrect pilot air bleed size or worn parts notwithstanding) while the latter should only be used to give you hints.
I am waiting for new tires before I adjust the chain...
A very good point ... and valid reason for concern. When buying ... and I've bought over 50 bikes ... a good idea to have close look at the seller. How is his garage kept? Does he keep maintenance logs? Lots can be learned from his answers regards maintenance or "fixes" he has done on the bike.
All that said ... as I said before ... the DR is a pretty tough customer and can handle abuse well. Still ... a hard used bike would never be my first choice. Good luck! Good shopping.
Black Widow Spider. (Had to look it up.)
I also used HD innertube stripes on all places where frame contacts skid plate. Not sure how much it helped but seems OK. Spraying with some sound deadening stuff can't hurt. More the quieter.