the DR650 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.

  1. planemanx15

    planemanx15 Long timer

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    Dec 4, 2009
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    1,010
    Location:
    Long Island, NY
    Bit the bullet today and bought my 790 kit!! Going to change out the clutch while I'm in there and check the NSU. I will post a thread\tutorial on here for anybody that is thinking about doing it.
  2. BenYork

    BenYork Adventurer

    Joined:
    Oct 7, 2011
    Oddometer:
    96
    Location:
    Tahoe/ Humboldt
    Hello,

    I'm hoping someone has time to help me with my bike here. First some history.

    Bought 2006 DR 650 about 5 months ago. Day I bought it, riding fast on highway, stumbly and backfired. Running rough, sort of throatier than normal. Ran like shit. Went home, took carb apart twice, drained tank, rinsed with alcohol, new gas. After second carb cleaning worked again. If I remember right I worked on the main jet only, and it seemed to be clogging with water. It idled fine, but would stumble and stall with throttle.

    Fast-forward to now. I put 4000 trouble free miles on the bike. Let it sit three weeks over Christmas, outside, but on a covered porch. Lots of temp fluctuation. When I got back I rode a little, no problems. Yesterday I did my weekend commute on it, which I have done many times before. 20 miles of twisties+ dirt followed by 60 miles of 70mph highway. Bike was as normal. As I was coming in to town I accelerated really hard, then came to a sudden stop. The bike immediately started stumbling and behaving like crap. Eventually it died, and would not start. (My battery is also shit) I walked the last mile home, pushing. Today I cleaned the carb as per "BST 40 Bible" not messing with the Air Fuel screw, which is still under the brass plug. Both pilot and main jets seemed like they may have been clogged with water, but easily cleared when I blew through them. Fuel seemed to maybe have water? I was down to 3/4 a tank when the bike stopped working. SO. Flushed tank with alcohol. Got new gas. Have been through carb three times. It starts up, reluctantly, idles fine, revs fine, and will ride a short distance before acting up again. Usually upon deceleration. After that I have to go back in to the carb before it will start or do anything again.

    So. Anything I am missing? Plugs seem alright. Fuel is undoubtedly getting to carb. Little filters in Petcock and carb intake are clean. Interior of carb is very clean. All I can think of is that there is still water someplace.

    Insight would be greatly appreciated.

    Thank You,

    BEN
  3. procycle

    procycle Long timer

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    Yes, you can't proper clean the carb without removing the idle mixture screw. The idle circuit passages are very small and clog up easily. Any tiny bit of crud will get stuck in there if you don't get the screw out and make sure it's all clear.
  4. Obard

    Obard Adventurer

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    Jan 25, 2013
    Oddometer:
    26
    Location:
    Kapowsin, Washington
    Not new to cycles or forums, but new to working on my DR650, and new to this forum. Not sure whether to post questions here or not. Here goes ... Why does my dr smoke blue exhaust when it's cold, then when it warms up, no smoke at all?
  5. BenYork

    BenYork Adventurer

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    Oct 7, 2011
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    OK. Idle mix screw is under brass plug? Will pull that out and clean. Thank you very much.

    BEN
  6. procycle

    procycle Long timer

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    Make sure the passage between the idle mixture screw, the pilot jet and into the carb throat is clear.
  7. Adv Grifter

    Adv Grifter on the road o'dreams

    Joined:
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    Valve guide seals most likely. No big deal. You could do a valve job to fix it ... but is really of no consequence, won't affect over all performance and the amount of oil used is minimal.

    I would pull the Carb off, then pull off the float bowl. Inspect the Pilot jet,
    and pull float out and clean under float needle (little rubber tip) Blow out with compressed air, carefully reassemble.

    Filters: You have a little filter in the metal fuel inlet tube. It's a tiny white
    filter. Pry it out ... check it for crud.

    Pull petcock out of fuel tank and clean intake filter stem.

    From here you should install an extended Idle mix fuel screw. Much easier to adjust. Keep reading here to learn all the ins and outs of tuning the simple DR650.
    Best!
  8. Obard

    Obard Adventurer

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    Jan 25, 2013
    Oddometer:
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    Thanks, that is some peace of mind. I just did a valve adjustment on it, but am uncertain about my competency in this department. Lack of quality tools, and experience being the biggest factor. How do I know if I did it right or wrong? It rattles and clanks quite a bit up there. Btw, it did the blue smoke thing before I adjusted the valves, so I don't think I made it worse.
  9. imprezagm4

    imprezagm4 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jul 5, 2011
    Oddometer:
    221
    Location:
    Bend, OR
    Ok.... so I'm lowering my DR today, did the rear no problem, going to raise the forks in the triple clamp... get everything all loosened up (top and bottom clamp) and they won't budge? Are there any tips and tricks or maybe something I missed?
  10. acesandeights

    acesandeights Asperger

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    I wonder if they are binding as the wheel wants to go forward and therefore change the angle of the fork tube/clamps. Did you take the weight off the suspension first, raise the bike?
  11. imprezagm4

    imprezagm4 Been here awhile

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    All I have is a car floor jack... so to do the rear I just layed the bike on its side. I tried it once again, on the side but still can't move the forks :?

    To confirm... there are only 6 bolts requiring removal to loosen them sufficiently... correct? 4 for the lower clamp and two for the top?
  12. Rob.G

    Rob.G Mostly Harmless

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    Yeah that's it. I suggest getting the front end in the air and removing the front wheel. It's MUCH easier than trying to do with the wheel on it.

    Rob
  13. Adv Grifter

    Adv Grifter on the road o'dreams

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    Sounds like you got the valves wrong ... you may need to go round one more full rotation and back on your timing mark to get valves in correct position for adjustment. If set right ... they don't rattle very much.
    Mis-adjusted valves won't affect your valve guides. About four hours shop labor to rebuild the head if you chose. If me, I'd just roll with it. You're nick name will be "Smokey Joe". :D

    Find someone to help you set the valves. It's quite simple once you know the drill. :deal
  14. Rob.G

    Rob.G Mostly Harmless

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    So today I finally decide to go for a short ride on my DR650. I get geared up and head west, figuring I'm gonna see if there are some dirt roads southwest of Dallas (Oregon). I get two miles down the road and notice my right-side LED driving light is hanging by its cord. WTF? I thought I lost the bolt. Nope, the bracket is broken! Crap. So I double back home.

    The little brackets from ProCycle for these lights have broken. The other side was just about ready to break. So I go inside and look through my parts bins. I come back out with two longer bolts and two 3/4" long nylon spacers, and replace the lower bolt in the lower triple with the new bolt and the spacer, to force the light out far enough so I can retain the reflector bracket. Takes ten minutes and it's all back together.

    I test the lights. They come on... flicker, then go off. WTF? No "off" light on the switch. Grrr. Pull the side panels and seat off and try to remember what the heck the fuse block for the lights looks like. After pulling the tank and tracing the wires, I find it. Fuse is fine. Pull fuse, examine, replace. Lights work. Cool, so I reassemble.

    Once back together, I test again. Lights no work. AUGH. Pull side panel and go back to fuse. Pulling/replacing doesn't work this time. Fine, be that way. Came inside in disgust. Tomorrow, everything comes apart again and I'm ripping the fancy wiring/relay crap out that the lights came with (the Denali lights from Twisted Throttle) and I'm going to wire them up the regular way like I did on my KLX250S and use a conventional toggle switch instead of that silly pushbutton thing. Simple is good.

    While looking at the wiring mess, I've decided that when I do gut the thing next Winter to powdercoat the purple frame, I'm going to redo ALL the wiring and install a standard fuse block and relay block, both accessible from the side covers, and everything will be labelled. That way, the seat can stay on most of the time. At least that's the plan. :)

    So yeah.. now instead of riding tomorrow, I get to deal with wiring crap.

    Rob
  15. trailrider383

    trailrider383 867-5309

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    Did you loosen the clamp at the top of the fork boot?
  16. procycle

    procycle Long timer

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    Sometimes the rubber grommets in the headlight bracket stick to the tubes. A little WD40 might help.

    Some bikes just have tight bores in the triple clamps. A little something wedged into the gap to spread the clamp might do the trick.
  17. eakins

    eakins Butler Maps

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    ?
    nice call.
  18. Carl Childers

    Carl Childers Ghost in the Machine

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    Check the shop manual, there is a better way to lower the forks by swapping the internal fork spacers around than raising them in the trees.
  19. TRAVELGUY

    TRAVELGUY Old Traveler

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    Georgetown, In / Costa Rica
    +1


  20. NordieBoy

    NordieBoy Armature speller

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    The flipping only limits the travel. It doesn't affect the height at all.