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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.
Ok, so putting the timing mark in the center of the inspection hole isn't exactly enough, right? I think what I am missing, is ensuring that it's tdc on the compression stroke. Please pardon my lack of knowledge, but, how do I know if it's the compression stroke?
After cleaning out the recess around the spark plugs thoroughly, remove the outer plug. Stick a straw into the hole, rotate the engine slowly (ccw) while wiggling the straw so it doesn't bind on the piston as it rises in the bore. At this TDC, wiggle the rocker arms (side to side, as you're unlikely to feel the small valve clearance with the oil cushioning it), if they're loose that's the TDC you want. Rotate the engine another 360* (straw at full extension again) and wiggle the rocker arms again, they should not wiggle, this is the wrong TDC. Do this two or three times until you're sure when the rockers are tight and when they're loose. Adjust the valves when both rockers are loose. Exact TDC (mark in the window), isn't necessary, as the valves are closed for many degrees on both sides of TDC.
Once you feel it, you're set for life.
i would be keen on a thread for this.
good luck with it.
Here is how I do it, FWIW:
The rockers will feel slightly loose at TDC. You should have a very small amount of play. If they are tight, your not on TDC.
Well I'm going to give it hell today. Thanks for all the helpful hints. Good news is I'm getting really quick at taking everything off and on. I've been trying to get these darn valves adjusted for months now. I think I'm getting close with last bit of info here on locating tdc(c).
Even better, with more familiarity you can consider tackling the blue smoke issue. It's probably nothing more then the valve seals which are cheap, but you will need a valve compressor tool which can be bought for less then $50. So for less then $100 you could fix the problem.
Got it done yesterday evening. Just had to slide the boot down to get a better grip. It really helped having the weight off the front wheel but it wasn't fun wrestling the beast to the ground...
I'm definitely aware I didn't do it the way the manual says, now that I know how to do it, I can reverse it in a few minutes... so we will see how it goes.
Thanks for all the tips
Do I have to yank the engine out to work on the valve seals? Nevermind don't tell me yet, we'll get there soon as I get the valves adjusted right.
The manual says it shortens the overall length, not just the travel. So you get 1.6" of ride height difference just between the two holes? The two holes are only about 5/8" apart. So, where's the other 1" come from? Not arguing here, just trying to learn. Holding the parts in my hands and looking at them, it looks like you'd limit travel and length by flipping the spring seat.
The amount it's lowered is measured at the rear axle so the length of the swingarm is where most of the additional inch comes from. Also there is the geometry of the shock linkage.
Flipping the stock spring seat only limits the travel but does also move the location of the spring on the shock body.
So, if you don't flip the spring seat, only move the bolt from the bottom to top hole in the clevis, the result is the same amount of lowering, 1.6" ?
Yes, same amount of lowering.
Yes, like Procycle said the lowering is the same regardless if you flip the spring seat or not. But you will risk the tire hitting the fender (or possibly other components hitting) if you don't limit the travel by flipping the spring seat which raises the bump stop to limit shock travel.
Remember the spring has to also be moved up the shock body (per the manual) when you flip the spring seat.
Personally (although I haven't done any measurements) I think the prelaod settings Suzuki states in the manual also play into their 1.6" claim. In other words you would have to adjust to their lowest preload setting to achieve the maximum height reduction.
New running lights
Went out this afternoon to give it hell, and finish the valve adjustment I've been trying to complete for months. Well ... I figured out what the clanging and rattling was. The bike swallowed the lock nut and the adjusting screw off of the rocker arm. Now all I have to do is load up the bike and get it over to the bike shop down the road. Live and learn ... The hard way.
Awe who am I kidding, I'm to cheap to take it anywhere, guess I'll see what the engine inards look like. Hope ya'll don't mind the onslaught of questions I'm likely to be asking.
Ouch, did that with my old 1150 GS years ago. Never did find the nut.