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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.
Holy sheeeeet!!! :eek1 We rock!!!
How's yer ankle??
Dang youze guys talk a lot!
Anyone tried the $30 Tank panniers from pro cycle? All the way at the bottom of the DR page. they look pretty slick for so cheap.
I use them as panniers behind the seat on my Berg. Didn't work on the DR with Safari for me.
are they tough enough? hard to tell from the pics, could be kinda flimsy
Quality is fine, especially for the price, and if you can use them.
I've had the same experience w/ Iridium.
Denso (model IU31 for the DR) came up with the Iridium concept and has a patent on using the smallest size tip. I think they also have a patent on the unique Iridium/metal blend found in the tip. This smaller tip has an advantage of firing easier than the larger tips found in NGK and others.
You pay a little bit more for this however over NGK and they are rarer to find. Either brand is worth it IMO, but you do pay more than a copper plug because Iridium is one of rarest elements on earth. http://www.densoiridium.com/
NGK CR10EIX http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-New-NGK-I...Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d2af08bab&vxp=mtr
it's still winter for most of us and the bikes are parked.
big question i'd have is do they get in your knees way when riding?
most tank paniers do unless you are able to pull then forward a bit.
That's why I have mine up back. Plus the velcro stays stuck to the sidecovers, but not for long to a plastic tank.
I ended up with a Wolfman tank bag and tank panniers with webbing adapted to get the panniers far enough forward so it doesn't impede riding. Not so hard to do with the Safari as it has large and forward 'wings'.
I don't have a pic of the bags on the Berg, but you can see where the velcro is on the sidecover that stops it flapping about. The middle bit goes under the seat and the seat bolt goes through the tank filler hole in the bags.
Good day all,
I noticed yesterday that my kickstand has rubbed a pretty good groove in my swingarm. I'm concerned about this, and not really sure how to get the kickstand to not rub, except to bend it outwards? I'm not sure grinding it would work, as the "foot" is pretty flush with the backside of the kickstand. Also, what potential does a deep groove in the swingarm for a failure of some sort? I'm not sure how thick the material is, and how does one go to repair something like this?
The kickstand starts to open up when too much weight (like sitting on the bike with the stand down) is placed on it. Take the stand off and close the top back together in a vise. I also took mine and used a grinding wheel to remove some material from the stand where it can contact the swingarm. I rounded it way down to make it less "knife-like".
There's some nasty pictures out there of the same kind of damage you are seeing. I noticed mine after it just scratched some. I keep an eye on it and try to never sit on the bike w/ the stand down now.
There is a misconception that the plug's heat range has to do with the temperature of the spark. It does not. Essentially, a hotter plug has a longer insulator which insulates it from the heat of the cylinder so as not to damage the plug. Therefore, it can withstand a higher heat application. If you use a higher temperature rated plug, there will be no adverse affects.
So, you are good to go.
Also, the temperature of the spark will have a negligible contribution to the temperature of the head compared to the pressurized fuel/air explosions.
Heat rating and heat flow path of NGK Spark Plugs
The major structural difference affecting the heat rating is the length of the insulator nose. A hot type spark plug has a longer insulator nose. The insulator nose of a hotter spark plug has a longer distance between the firing tip of the insulator, and the point where insulator meets the metal shell. Therefore, the path for the dissipation of heat from the insulator nose to the cylinder head is longer and the firing end stays hotter. The insulator nose of a hotter spark plug also has a greater surface area that is exposed to more of the ignited gases and is easily heated to higher temperatures. A colder spark plug functions in an opposite manner.
I've had a pair for 3 years/ 40,000 miles. They are tough but do have a few problems which were easily solved: 1. Keeping them forward from your knees;2. making them fit a bit snugger on top of the IMS tank; 3. Allowing for water drainage- they will take in a little water in a hard rain.
I will buy another set when these are worn out.
Here's a post I put in Krusty's DR650 Index topic #14 luggage.(top of the 'Thumpers' forum.)
Good call Rusty! Took the kickstand off, closed it up, and it's perfect now. I also rode by the local Ducati shop, spoke to their welder guy, he said it's an easy fix, about an hour labor TIG weld, but he said I didn't need it. I also took the bike to the local Suzuki shop, they said cosmetic also....Any thoughts?
I think Doe's are Dem!
I got these from Rocky Mtn. $12 on sale. Now a bit more ... still a good deal.
Pro Cycle ones. Same Same.
I've only used my pannier bags on short rides. They sort of get in the way off road. But if you can position them well ... then they might work OK for you. At $12 for me it was a no brain-er. At $30? dunno. Rocky Mtn have great sales a few times a year.
I would get it welded but thats just me, any time you have a sharp edged cut on any metal it is a weak point to allow a fatigue crack to form. Normally this happens at the worst time.
thanks for all the repies on the tank panniers. I have short legs, so maybe if I pull them forward I'd be OK.
I 'd have to find a way to tie them down tight tho. I don't want them to bounce around in the rough stuff. I like the idea of keeping some weight centralized instead of in the back of the bike. Not too thrilled to hear they let water in tho...
I thought about making some of these but for the money I'd rather just buy it.
Also have the PC panniers. Did the same mods/sewing described by SHU. Works fine for the money. Pulled them forward with small bungee. Sewed the dart for the saddle strap.Raised them up a bit. Industrial velcro'ed to the sides of the tank. Keeps my knees warmer. Know they will get wet in rain. Oh well...
To protect the swingarm from the sidestand foot: I routered a footpad shaped depression into a hockey puck and bolted it to the footpad. Drilled some holes into the puck to remove some of the weight. Now I have a bigger footpad (works in sand) with swingarm as well as leg protection. Did not want a bigger METAL addition to the sidestand. Cheap, funky, functional.
CU-ALL @ CADVR 6
Nice job on the sidestand foot. I may do something like that. First, I need to establish whether or not I need a new swingarm, get it welded or leave it as it is. I've had two shops say it's ok, and that its cosmetic. But a few friends have suggested it could fail. I'm no mechanic by any means, so I'm not really sure what to do.