Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.
Cogent shock, anyone?
Check this out. Poor man's Giant Loop bag?? $40, maybe with some modification...
I tie wrapped some sturdy fuel hose just above the pad.Now the rubber sides on the swingarm.
Need some food for thought on rear shocks, I've been calling about everyone in teh shock biz this week try'n to decide from which to buy, but for the price tag (most in the $550 range) just how good are they ?? can a guy buy a more economical shock & it do just fine or do the top of the line shock make that much of a difference ??
mine looks worse than that, no worries
I went round and round with the same issues, my stock shock was harsh at the standard setting and with all the bad reports I've read about the stock shock I thought I'd just rebuild , respring and revalve to get a better ride and then just for the Hell of it I thought I'd knock the preload down to the soft position. With Ricor's in the forks and the reset rear shock I went out and pounded the hardest terrain I could find and the bike just floated over everything, no harsh jolts no bottoming out in the rear the bike was 100% better. I ride this bike hard off road and it sees very little pavement. Maybe my shock is an odd ball but I won't even think about touching it now until it needs a rebuild. I'm just saying that it might be worth your while to mess with the preload first and maybe save yourself $600.00.
Adjusting the preload will not make the shock stiffer or softer, rather, preload is used to set the ride height (sag).
If you're under 160 lbs, then the stock shock is pretty good, but offers no rebound damping adjustment which makes it hard to fine tune to your liking, and to suit the terrain and type of riding.
If you're over 160, then a stiffer spring will certainly help and a valve kit if you want better. Having 3-way adjustment is ideal but you would need to add a rebound clicker for that.
Sent from my Rotary Dial Phone using TapaTalk.
ther's a dent in my swingarm, about in the middle of the swingarm, where your gouge is. the p.o. obviously dumped the bike and the end of the sidestand made the dent. purely cosmetic issue, imo...
DR650 side (gen 1 Wolfman style) and top racks for the DR in vendors:
I finally got the access plug off the crankcase housing ... what a PITA .
Somebody prior to me must have used something smaller than a 10mm Allen & wrung it out real good. I tried heat ,tapping , driving in a 10mm Allen , no dice .
I got it out using a chisel working it around the circumference & it thankfully came loose.
I don't see in my manual the proper torque settings for tightening the cover . Can anyone lend a hand ?
I had the same issue yesterday!! I used a dremel and an impact driver. That didn't work so I used the dremel to cut all the way to the edge and used a chisel and heat. Replaced it with the warp 9 plug Procycle offers. I tightened it to 20 ft/lbs, and I'm sure that's over kill.
I may be a bit late to the tank pannier/bag conversation but here is the only thing I have found to work with my setup that doesn't hit my knees at all or hit me when I am standing.
Giant Loop Buck n' Roll
You might want to smooth and blend out the gouge so it has a nice smooth radius to it. Any sharp edges could lead to a crack starting from a stressed area which I imagine this would be.A needle file set and sandpaper would work in the aluminium which is fairly soft.
The factory manual has three recommended settings for prelaod based on spring height and they are refereed to as soft, standard and stiff, so I raised the collars to get the soft setting from the standard position. The whole thing puzzles me, most people refer to the shock as mushy and undersprung yet I found it way to stiff and harsh. I bought the bike bone stock with 1,500 miles on it from a mild mannered gentlemen so I doubt if he had the shock reworked. I weigh 195 lbs. without riding gear so that doesn't fit the norm either. No complaints though for whatever reason that one adjustement and the addition of intimators to the fork changed the whole level of ride performance to the bike........go figure??
Nice work on the side covers. Maybe you could give some tips on how you made them. There has been a bit of discussion in the last 2 days about the high price of replacements.
Common wisdom around here is to loosen it when it's warm (the night before if you're setting valves and want the motor cold.)
I just put some antiseize on it and tighten it 'softly but snugly' by hand- no need to use a torque wrench. I haven't had any trouble with mine for 50,000 miles this way.
That would be a $16.00 Hefty trash can and many hours work on fitment, cut, and design
20 ft lbs! You're gonna need the chisel again next time
I'd guess 10 is plenty.
Does that giant loop buck n roll just strap around the tank or to something else?
Looks like the side compartments would be a great way to carry a few water bottles
I have been looking around at DR thumpers and was wonder how long the chains and sprockets last. I got 35k miles on the Vstrom but it is a twin. So for 80 to 90 percent road how much worse would it be? Also the Vstrom cush bumpers were in good shape. How do the DRs hold up? I found a little info searching but see what the latest opinions are.